As soon as I get the hull patched and the soft spot repaired she'll be in. Hoping by mid July. The replacement tramp I have also needs some minor stitching repair.
Looks like I need to sort out the below before I can get her on the water
New standing rigging
New running rigging
Fix Tramp
Fix starboard hull hole
Fix starboard hull soft spot
Find or replace all pins
Well, this got sidetracked when I picked up a complete Alcort Flying fish for a song. I've been able to get that on the water and its nice to learn the basics. After working through the small issues the dingy has, I've realized that the modern 1/4 ropes (dyneema based) have the strength to replace the 1/8" wire shrouds on this Cat. Has anyone on here done so?
Yes, A-cats run dyneema shrouds and I run dyneema traps. Keep an eye on chafe and UV, but these are easier IMO to inspect for than rush in a swaged wire fitting.
You also want to use sailmakers thimbles, like these, for terminating the ends: https://www.westmarine.com/buy/ronstan--stainless-sailmakers-thimbles--P002_065_006_526
Vela sailing probably has them as do APS and others. West marine is overpriced.
Yes, A-cats run dyneema shrouds and I run dyneema traps. Keep an eye on chafe and UV, but these are easier IMO to inspect for than rush in a swaged wire fitting.
You also want to use sailmakers thimbles, like these, for terminating the ends: https://www.westmarine.com/buy/ronstan--stainless-sailmakers-thimbles--P002_065_006_526
Vela sailing probably has them as do APS and others. West marine is overpriced.
Fantastic. I'm glad to hear this is a viable option.
I bought a bunch of plastic thimbles. I had a hard time finding them in the tiny dyneema sizes I had on hand, but they are easy to find for 1/8 and above from APS. I used a longer-than-standard locked bury and then lock-stitched it to make sure the thimble didn't slip out if the line crept.
If you are using normal SK78 dyneema, it is not suited to be used as shrouds. It will creep/loosen under load. The plastic thimbles are also unsuitable, and are going to deform under load.
You have got to use a heat treated dyneema. I use Marlow D12 max - it's a heat treated SK99 product. Use Ronstan RF2180 thimbles, they will not deform or chafe the rigging.
Trust me - I stayed in a Holiday Inn Express once...
Trust me - I stayed in a Holiday Inn Express once...
This sounds like a story worth hearing...
-- Sheet In!
Bob
_/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA --
You can always call Tom at Aquarius and get new rigging from the factory.
West Marine's rigging shop in Annapolis looks to know what their about.
Fawcett Boat Supply, also in Annapolis MD also does custom rigging. I have used them.
When I redid my SC15 rigging I had access to a Nicopress tool and go-no-go gauge at the theater I worked in.
I've pressed a lot of nicopress eyes in 30 years so I had confidence in my work.
1x19 stainless wire is a bitch to work with! http://www.fawcettboat.com/
+1 on calling Tom at Aquarius
If you have any reservations on doing your own or having custom made. Have gotten 2 sets from Aquarius for my SC15 over the years and both fit right and held up.
I am on salt water and demasted once with using old rigging, so have been a bit more apt to change out often. I keep the old as a spare, in case I need for a few days if something happens. Not sure why I do that.
+1 on placing an ad here when you are ready to sell that 17. Great boats and I would be willing to add to the fleet for a nice 17. Wife made me promise no new boats except that I get one for each grandchild. Grand daughter due in October
-- Supercat 15
Windrider 17
Several Sunfish and Sunfish clones
Ratboat built from Zuma and Sunfish parts
Shallow water sailor in the Delaware Bay --
If you are using normal SK78 dyneema, it is not suited to be used as shrouds. It will creep/loosen under load. The plastic thimbles are also unsuitable, and are going to deform under load.
You have got to use a heat treated dyneema. I use Marlow D12 max - it's a heat treated SK99 product. Use Ronstan RF2180 thimbles, they will not deform or chafe the rigging.
Trust me - I stayed in a Holiday Inn Express once...
-Mike
Appreciate the heads up on the rope. Not something I would have realized.
note on synthetic stays:
most don't use them due to the shafe that takes place between the side-stays and the hound/trap wires
you need to figure out another way to run your rig so there is no chafe issue -
Easy to address with a braided cover. I use synthetic standing rigging and it is FRIGGIN AWESOME!
I'll see if I have a pic of the covers. Also shafe is very easy to see and provides a simple inspection warning. SS corrosion is hidden. You save a ton of weight, less stretch, stiffer platform, less heal, and more responsive acceleration. This stuff is the schit!
Easy to address with a braided cover. I use synthetic standing rigging and it is FRIGGIN AWESOME!
I'll see if I have a pic of the covers. Also shafe is very easy to see and provides a simple inspection warning. SS corrosion is hidden. You save a ton of weight, less stretch, stiffer platform, less heal, and more responsive acceleration. This stuff is the schit!
Easy to address with a braided cover. I use synthetic standing rigging and it is FRIGGIN AWESOME!
I'll see if I have a pic of the covers. Also shafe is very easy to see and provides a simple inspection warning. SS corrosion is hidden. You save a ton of weight, less stretch, stiffer platform, less heal, and more responsive acceleration. This stuff is the schit!
An old friend used to fish for sharks by himself on a Hobie-14. Claimed he would loop a line around the tail and then sail off towing the fish backwards to do it in.
Murrays is an excellent resource for the rigging. West Marine could do a good job but you'll probably need to hand-hold them a bit to get it the way you want.
I would go Murrays or Saltydog before going to APS.