I'm actually headed down to Mexico this weekend so I'll be able to finally see all the parts, take measurements, etc. But thanks much for the info on the traveler car; got it in today. I guess I will leave the rudders as is for now and until I actually get to the point of flying a hull, which will probably not be anytime soon. Actually, there is one thing that would be most helpful...some good pics of your jib rigging. I feel pretty confident with rebuilding the mainsheet rigging but not so much with the jib. I've seen some pic of a Gcat 5.0 barber-haul set up but they weren't very clear. Thank You!
the more i think of this, the more i think it is ok how it is
i am no engineer but i think the sheer forces would not be changed by this set up, or if they are changed it isn't by much
i am certain self tapping is not the correct solution
adding ports is not optimal nor fun work
i think i would leave it as is
hopefully one of our engineers on here will comment too
I think I'm going to go with it as it is since I've sailed it twice and seemed to be ok...at least for now.
I think I'm going to go with it as it is since I've sailed it twice and seemed to be ok...at least for now.
just cause it didn't explode the last 2 times doesn't mean it won't
you should really deeply inspect and test it, wiggle it (just a little bit) - jk - wiggle it a decent amount
and keep an eye on it (inspect it a few times) under sail
the forces get much bigger with speed - i think i read the tension of the rigging doubles every 7 knots (or something like that)
I'm not 100% sure that the casting resting on the gudgeon doesn't increase shear ... so please look a little deeper than my advice alone - i would feel bad if you rip your transom off hitting ground or surf (and it was due to my best guess)
I had good success using the Awlgrip system on all of my aluminum on This End Up. Steps were to sand the anodizing, use their wash coat, next up was the 545 epoxy primer, then used the Awlgrip 2000. Paint is never going to be as durable as anodizing, but there are very few places to get a mast anodized.
I am very satisfied with the appearance and the durability of this finish system. It was a lot of work though for a DIY project. If you are using professionals they likely could work through this pretty quickly. Me not so much.
Here is the album on the aluminum work on my project:
Wow. That does look like a major project! But the end result is great. I think I will get everything else squared away then leave that for last....or buy a new boat!
I think I'm going to go with it as it is since I've sailed it twice and seemed to be ok...at least for now.
just cause it didn't explode the last 2 times doesn't mean it won't
you should really deeply inspect and test it, wiggle it (just a little bit) - jk - wiggle it a decent amount
and keep an eye on it (inspect it a few times) under sail
the forces get much bigger with speed - i think i read the tension of the rigging doubles every 7 knots (or something like that)
I'm not 100% sure that the casting resting on the gudgeon doesn't increase shear ... so please look a little deeper than my advice alone - i would feel bad if you rip your transom off hitting ground or surf (and it was due to my best guess)
Will do. Once I get her back together, I'll wiggle it around then take her for a slow spin and watch if it flexes. etc. So there should already be a SS backing plate installed when the hull was put together? I wonder how others have repaired problems with the mounts without an inspection port.
Or buy another old boat. I am now a year into a J30 monohull. Things I learned on the 5.2 apply to this new project too. None of this stuff is simple or easy. I like researching techniques and other people's experiences and then figuring out what I want to do. Resources like beachcats.com are invaluable to those of us taking a little different course.
I wish I could say that recycling an old boat like This End Up is the green thing to do, but all the overspray in my shop says otherwise. But my Nacra 5.2 looks almost as good as any boat fresh off the showroom floor, maybe better with those killer tangerine sails and dark blue hulls. The experience from all these guys watching this site is key to getting to a great final result.
One of these days soon my woodshop will be back to being a woodshop rather than a boat shop, but that will happen when it happens. Fooling around with boats is keeping my back in pain, my arms in pain, my wallet in pain, god I love this stuff.
-- dg
NACRA 5.2 #400
This End Up
Original owner since 1975 --
Will do. Once I get her back together, I'll wiggle it around then take her for a slow spin and watch if it flexes. etc. So there should already be a SS backing plate installed when the hull was put together? I wonder how others have repaired problems with the mounts without an inspection port.
I don't think the boat was built with a backing plate. If there had been one, this would not be such a common problem. My biggest concern would be your screws coming loose over time and you not noticing
So there should already be a SS backing plate installed when the hull was put together?
Unknown -
i looked at hanz's current 5.0 and it has no real access via his 4" access ports - who knows
I wonder how others have repaired problems with the mounts without an inspection port.
a. the accepted their fate and added a port (it's not THAT hard - but like everything, there is skill involved so it's easy to have issues if you never have done it before)
b. did invasive surgery (i.e. remove a section of the transom to add the plate and then reattached it)
anything can be "repaired" - just a question of funds, time and desire
c. smathered 5200 (or epoxy, or something) everywhere in an attempt to secure the gudgeon on the external section - which may or maynot last depending how strong it is and what forces it meets
I wish I could say that recycling an old boat like This End Up is the green thing to do, but all the overspray in my shop says otherwise.
It is green because you can repair it to usability, and doing so consumes less material than you would if you scrapped it and bought another, A huge part of sustainability is getting away from disposable attitudes in all things.
Dmgbear you are more sustainable than you give yourself credit for.
-- Sheet In!
Bob
_/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA --
So there should already be a SS backing plate installed when the hull was put together?
Unknown -
i looked at hanz's current 5.0 and it has no real access via his 4" access ports - who knows
I actually know, but maybe not. Afterall, I just own the boat and have seen what an original one looked like when the transom ripped off in surf. Inspecting Hans' port holes seems a little invasive...maybe just ask him????
Well, after my trip to Mexico this past weekend, I feel much better about the condition of the boat. At least while it is on shore! We removed each cross beam and replaced all the hardware with spec components. Replaced all the standing rigging to include the shroud line anchor pins. And we inspected and checked the mounts for the rudders. So far, everything seems pretty solid. While inspecting the rudder (gudgeons?), I did attempt to see if the flanges fit inside the mounts..and in fact they do...like a glove. So no doubt they are currently incorrectly mounted...but seem to work. So at some point in time I will feel the need to do it right and maybe have to install an inspection port at each end of the hull to install some sort of backing plate(s).
But next step is coming up, which will be replacing all the running rigging...and then getting her back in the Sea of Cortez.
JSB4G, did you have a chance to take some pics of your barber haul this past weekend? This would be most helpful.
Heading to San Diego this weekend to take some classes....maybe fly a hull for the first time
did attempt to see if the flanges fit inside the mounts..and in fact they do...like a glove. So no doubt they are currently incorrectly mounted...but seem to work
looking at the pic again, it may be as simple as the bottom gudgeons is mounted upside down -
Heading to San Diego this weekend to take some classes....maybe fly a hull for the first time icon_biggrin
I crewed with Hans yesterday
there is an alum plate glassed in the transom (as does my cat)
you should be able to tap threads into it -
i still would simply try turning the gudgeon 180*
I crewed with Hans yesterday
there is an alum plate glassed in the transom (as does my cat)
you should be able to tap threads into it -
i still would simply try turning the gudgeon 180*Edited by MN3 on Sep 25, 2017 - 11:52 AM.
I applaud you for asking for advice and then passing it on instead of speculating. Did Hans put the metal plate there as a repair/upgrade? I know his rudder system is not original. Also, I have seen multiple G-Cats with the rear transom ripped off and they had to be rebuilt. I have never seen a metal plate on an original, unrebuilt Gcat. I can send you a pick of a damaged original if you'd like. what do you mean by turning the gudgeon 180 degrees?
good thread! I just bought a g cat in 'good' condition a couple weeks ago. I have not sailed it yet as too many things need to be fixed or replaced. My rudders are attached the exact same way as yours.