I've had issue with the jib track pulling up even after re-riveting it a couple of times.
Even moved it in-board the width of the track to start with fresh holes but still the same results after a couple of years of service.
My thought is to bed the track in 3M 5200 and clamp the track to the cross-bar till it cures.
Of course part of the issue will be keeping the 5200 from impeding the movement of the jib car but I think I can figure out a work around on that.
Thoughts, suggestions?
thanks, for any input
1982 Hobie Jib Track issue
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Posted: Oct 24, 2017 - 04:34 PM
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Posted: Oct 24, 2017 - 04:58 PM
What kind of rivets were you using ? Pete -
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Posted: Oct 24, 2017 - 05:04 PM
Stainless Steel, purchased from Murray's
thought they were specific for jib track and allow for free movement of the adjustable/towable jib car -
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Posted: Oct 24, 2017 - 08:42 PM
If the rivets are pulling out, most likely the rivets were too short for the overall material thickness and were not able to fully flare when they were pulled, or the diameter of the hole drilled in the crossbar was too large and it’s allowing the rivets to pull through. If the holes were drilled too large, you can order rivet “caps” from Hobie or Murrays. These will act as a sleeve to take up the extra space between the rivet and the crossbar.
The other question would be what do you mean that the track is “lifting up?”
Is it actually pulling away from the crossbar or is it just rocking back and forth? Those tracks always seem to have some back and forth movement, so I would not be too concerned if that is the case. If the track is actually pulling away from the crossbar, then it needs to be re-riveted. I would not use 5200 or any adhesive to attach the track.
sm
Edited by Dogboy on Oct 24, 2017 - 08:47 PM. -
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Posted: Oct 24, 2017 - 09:21 PM
This isn't my first rodeo or first Hobie 16
The track is pulling up off the crossbar not side to side
I had used the rivet caps/sleeves prior to moving the track inboard with the same results over time
From what I know about 3M 5200, once you use it to install a fitting, you're never gonna remove it again
Not that I would need to remove it once it stays attached to the crossbar -
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Posted: Oct 25, 2017 - 11:50 AM
assuming your track is somewhat like this ...
if it keeps pulling off - after previous repairs - do a real refit on it
drill out all the rivet heads
clean up the track
redrill any holes that have wormed or rusted out of use to a larger size rivet
drill new holes in the track to accept the new size rivet
apply anti corrosion smutz
re revit in place - be done for 30 more years -
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Posted: Oct 25, 2017 - 06:00 PM
right, that's what the track looks like and I've done all of the above to remedy the situation.
tempted to thru-bolt it down through the front cross-bar -
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Posted: Oct 25, 2017 - 06:36 PM
why is this happening then?
is your beam failing ?
or
is your jib track failing?
Is either part corroding?
is your sheeting angle non typical?
is your crew a gorilla?
does your rigging get snagged somehow during any part of rigging / sailing?
How many Rodeos have you meet to?
Edited by MN3 on Oct 25, 2017 - 06:37 PM. -
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Posted: Oct 25, 2017 - 06:44 PM
why is this happening then? beats the fuck out of me
is your beam failing ? nope
or
is your jib track failing? nope
Is either part corroding? nope
is your sheeting angle non typical? standard Hobie 16 set up
is your crew a gorilla? no crew, single hand 90% of the time
does your rigging get snagged somehow during any part of rigging / sailing? nope
How many Rodeos have you meet to? ????? been sailing a sixteen since 1981 -
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Posted: Oct 25, 2017 - 07:03 PM
*been - not sure how that typo happened.
if neither the track nor beam are bad (or overly worn)
the rivets must be the issue
i.e. the wrong size, or the rivet gun is failing or operator error is creating a poor "seal" and the rivets have room to wiggle
are the same rivets you replaced failing (only those ones) -
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Posted: Oct 25, 2017 - 07:06 PM
I've re-riveted both tracks moving them in-board the width of the track, only the first three inboard rivets are pulling out -
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Posted: Oct 26, 2017 - 12:58 PM
If you have access to the used rivets for inspection i would drill out the heads, and inspect the 3 that are failing and find out why - i would still have to think the issue is with the rivets/application if the beam and track are not showing signs of wear
if you throughbolt - do you mean through the top and bottom of the beam? this sounds like a poor option if so -
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Posted: Jun 20, 2018 - 09:50 PM
Success!!!
I seriously thought about using 3M 5200 to bed the jib track down on my Hobie 16 but kept trying to figure out how I'd keep the perforated track clean enough after the 5200 oozed through for the car to still travel.
So I manned up, bought way more rivets than I needed and even considered using the casements/sleeves in existing holes and bought them but went again inboard the width of a piece of track and went at it with a New Rivet Gun from Murray's.
I questioned if the Gun was going to be up to the task as manufacturer's literature indicated it wasn't suitable for Stainless Steel Rivets and the fact that Murray's included a spare set of Jaws for the Gun didn't comfort me that much. With thirty seven years of Hobie 16 repairs, I've gone through three previous guns from various manufacturers, but I went at it
My crossbar is starting to look like swiss cheese but I'm Happy to say that both port and starboard jib tracks are down in place with no side to side wobble and cars traveling freely.
Murray's came through for me correcting a slight snafu and included what made all the difference in the world, which was a copper stop sleeve to slide onto the rivet before engaging the Gun and pulling.
The Marson Klik-Fast Heavy Duty Riveter shows no signs of wear and ejected the spent rivet every time, something that has always seemed to fail with previous guns.
Thanks, Murrays
