I am ready to spray my prindle andd the marine shop wants me to try the interlux bright. It is a very bright marine paint. Has anyone tried it?
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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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Poly interlude paint
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Posted: Feb 10, 2018 - 09:30 PM
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Posted: Feb 10, 2018 - 09:42 PM
Also I took my deck off one hull and reworked the inside using epoxy west system in areas. Mostly looking for cracks and found some in front of the forward beam using cloth and epoxy in a single sheet of woven glass.beefed up the bridle tangs by taken them off used a double piece of epoxy and glass about 10 x 30 inches so the tangs should not pull through under stress.used a 2 inch strip along the lips and epoxy that good. I have added about 3 pounds at this point. At last I would use poly resin along the deck and run a 2 inch Matt all the way around and sand. That will be done by tomorrow. Then I'll start the other hull and do the same. I am figuring about 5 pounds on each deck. I'll just try to lose 10 pounds but at least it will be stronger than before. Any thoughts or advice?
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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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Posted: Feb 10, 2018 - 09:46 PM
Correction,interlux paint
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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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Posted: Feb 10, 2018 - 09:49 PM
I was wrong about total weight about 6 pounds total
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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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Posted: Feb 10, 2018 - 09:56 PM
When I glass my deck in I am planning to just glass the seam solid and sand . I think it will be stronger and I feel like I am done for good on the repair. I have studied all the pros and cons on this site and I really think I have done a good job going by the book.The glass work looks great no air. Took my time and honestly it looks professional.I appreciate everyone's help in the past.I take some pics tomorrow.
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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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Posted: Feb 11, 2018 - 09:37 AM
We’d love to see some pictures, sounds like a big job -
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Posted: Feb 12, 2018 - 06:52 PM
How do I post photos on a tablet?
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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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Posted: Feb 12, 2018 - 09:16 PM
I've used both Interlux Brightside and the 2 part Perfection . They both applied easily with the roll and tip method. Brightside looked great but chipped easily over the next year of sailing (more from the bumping around from dock onto dolly ) . The Perfection was obviously more durable being 2 part polyurethane and also twice the price. I ended up sticking with the Perfection . Just be sure your sanding and prep work are well done since any imperfections will show with the high Gloss of these paints. -
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Posted: Feb 12, 2018 - 09:25 PM
Can I spray the interlux. Thanks for the reply
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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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Posted: Feb 13, 2018 - 10:01 AM
what color are you painting your cat?
Edited by MN3 on Feb 13, 2018 - 10:03 AM. -
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Posted: Feb 13, 2018 - 10:50 AM
I am not sure but leaning toward the white with a slight blue tent. Or the charcole.I want to use the interlux bright and spray. Not sure if I am good enough to roll and tip. I want it to look good. Also I guess I will use the recommended primer.I still have a ways to go. I took all the decks off and what a job. I am going over everything with a fine comb. Found some stress cracks here and there. The well has small damage on both sides at the bottom where boards rubbed. Easy fix I believe using west epoxy and cloth. This is probably why most boats leak. Small leaks but.......I am going over all the lips around the top hull decks by sand cracks to the glass then i will use poly resin and tape cloth. Would rather use epoxy but if I go with gelcoat might be a problem.There is 2 areas on the port side where the trapeze man had his feet rushing in a little. I will epoxy the inner hull and build up on exterior using poly resin by westsystems.Taking ever thing off the hulls completely. Beams came off nice. One bolt was super tight but no problem. Lots of Work! Probably 70 hrs of prepping so I hope the paint is a successful. I tried to post photos on a tablet but I do not know how. Old school.
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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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Posted: Feb 13, 2018 - 11:52 AM
ec, the prep makes the rest of the job work. Applying a good primer and being absolutely sure to sand that out should give you a very nice finish. I used Interluxe Perfection 2 years ago in Arctic White, and got a very bright reflective finish that has held up to the beach. It's a ton of work, but you will really enjoy the results.
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Tom
NACRA 5.7 (1984 Sail 181)
Pennsylvania
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Posted: Feb 13, 2018 - 11:55 AM
Following this.... I have an 18.2 that I am going to tackle a bottom job here in the next week or so. Have the west epoxy stuff to do it. Hope it does not take more than a weekend.
Does your boat have the longitudinal stress cracks on the top edges like most prindles 18.2/19 have? I hear they are just superficial and nothing to worry about. I would like to fix them but need a plan of action. My thoughts were to take a die grinder to clean them out and give a little room to see how deep they go, then just use some epoxy and filler then sand them. Though this could lead to yellowing of the epoxy over time. Thinking of painting the boat afterwards as well, but that is as far as I have gotten with the idea.
Jonathan
Mesa, AZ
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Posted: Feb 13, 2018 - 03:34 PM
If you use west system, and are sure to remove the amile blush that forms (green scrubby pad and warn water, not a solvent), i have found (and most others) gel coating is not an issue - there are many youtube vids that discuss and test this
i highly recommend white paint to most, any other color will show any scratch like an etch-a-sketch -
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Posted: Feb 13, 2018 - 03:40 PM
if you stay up for all 48 hours, you may get a 1/4 of the way done in 1 weekend :)
I am in day 10 of a bottom job
and currently in layer 10 or so of gelcoat
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I still have a bunch of inter centerboard well work to do
(sure am glad i have a spare catamaran)
You can't leave epoxy uncovered in the sun - it will fail
you need to paint/or gelcoat over it
To "Fix" stress cracks, you must remove material, add glass cloth and cover it
Needs to be stronger than it was originally or the cracks will reform -
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Posted: Feb 13, 2018 - 04:51 PM
Yes a lot of long hours.on the cracks some go rather deep. I ground them all out took about 5 hrs. I will go back with resin aND polyester and cloth. I did one front hull already and finished it to see how it looked. After sanding with 80 grit came back with the west system filler and sanded it with a fine grit and looks good.I used4 inch tape 2 inches on the side and 2 inches on the deck. I went ahead and sanded the top grit like deck smooth because I had roughed that top deck up on that grit like fiberglass molding. It looks good now. Beefed the inside of that hull pretty good without adding much weight.By the way when I epoxy ed the deck on I filled the deck gap with ground glass using epoxy resin and sanded then added the 4 inch strips of poly resin cloth. I hope this works. To answer Jonathon question my cracks were all along the lips all the way around and 10 Percent were deep. It wasn't to bad of a job to do that took about 15 hrs and still grinding all the way in the grass.Yes white is the way to go for me. I like that blue white finish.some of you know my boat from Craigslist. One good thing the hulls have no soft spots and they are solid.The decks are solid too just the cracks.Thanks for all the advice and feel free to be critical of my work I am a rookie. You guys know your stuff and I will listen and learn from my mistakes.
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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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Posted: Feb 13, 2018 - 07:06 PM
[quote=MN3]if you stay up for all 48 hours, you may get a 1/4 of the way done in 1 weekend :)
I am in day 10 of a bottom job
and currently in layer 10 or so of gelcoat
[quote]
I can't tell if you are joking or not. Your definition and mine of a bottom job seems drastically different. In a nutshell, I am talking sanding down to the layers on either side 2" wide, placing a 2" strip of glass the length of the wear area, then doing a final coat of the epoxy with mixed fibers on top. Sand, fair, and done.
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Posted: Feb 13, 2018 - 07:58 PM
Wasn't joking, I know it is many long hours.I will probably finish the first hull in about25 more hrs.I am going past the paint where I intend to reglass. I wanted to do one hull at a time. When I start the next hull it will probably take less time since I will get the hang of it excluding wasteful work. I will do the rudders and boards last.Johnston are you fiberglass ing the insides of Hulls?
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Tom Bainbridge, Ga. Hobie16, prindle 18.2
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Posted: Feb 14, 2018 - 09:37 AM
[quote=Jonathan][quote=MN3]if you stay up for all 48 hours, you may get a 1/4 of the way done in 1 weekend :)
I am in day 10 of a bottom job
and currently in layer 10 or so of gelcoat
I wasn't joking at all
i expect to put in at least a 100 hours in my bottom job
my bottom job is about 6" along the entire bottom of both hulls
I am basically just filling scratches, and adding layers of new gelcoat (had a very small area where i added epoxy where it was needed - that was the easiest part
the gelcoat i am using needs wax added for sanding, color tint to match, and in earlier rounds i am using fumed silica for thickness and mill fibers for strength - not to mention the mekp as a catalysis
I also spent some time building up the area around my centerboard well to better define where my gaskets go (some cats with centerboards use a slot tape as a gasket to keep water from rushing up the board and spewing out the opening)
i have gone through 3 quarts of gelcoat so far, prob need 1 more to finish
The process takes me a lot of time
from prep, to mix, to apply, to cure, to sand....
I wan't my bottom job to be as perfect as possible (shape, i don't care all that much about the tint being exact) -
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Posted: Feb 14, 2018 - 11:07 AM
EC,
I am not laying fiberglass on the insides. I applaud you for popping the decks off for access inside. That scares me and I don't plan on popping them off.
MN3,
Yea sounds like a lot of prep time, especially with the gelcoat. When you get done should be a nice finished product.
Jonathan
