I just bought a NACRA 5.5 SL and the boards need a little TLC. There's a few damaged spots that definitely need repair as well as a lot of finish wear (though I can't see any glass fibers) along the circumference of the boards and the spot where the butt up to the rudder castings. One of the damaged spots has a crack about 2" in length running out from it.
Reading on here it looks like the best way to repair this would be the West system with slow hardener and Microfibers or Silica filler (not sure what the difference is but seems they're referred to a lot for fixing this type of thing). I've also seen though that people say the West product is not UV stable, so would I need to paint/gel coat over the repair job? What would be the best thing to use for that? I have a medium size air compressor so I could spray or roll/brush on most products. Would MarineTex be a better option for these small repairs to avoid having to repaint stuff?
I can't start sailing the boat for atleast a month so I'd like to spend the time now and fix this right before I get out on the water.
Bonus Question: Any must haves for the trailer box? I have a smattering of extra parts that came with the boat and I've put together a small toolbox of harbor freight stuff (screwdrivers, vice grips, etc)
https://imgur.com/a/9MwiM
Nacra 5.5 Board repair
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- Rank: Lubber
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Posted: Mar 14, 2018 - 04:37 PM
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Posted: Mar 14, 2018 - 05:49 PM
http://www.uscomposites.com/index.html
http://marinetex.com/
https://interlux.com/en/us/
https://www.westsystem.com/
West System is great stuff. It's on the pricey side but they've worked it all out for the consumer level.
I have been working on my SuperCat rudders recently using both West System and Marine Tex.
Both great products. They have a long shelf life.
Marine Tex cures to a nice white in 24 hrs. It machines nicely. It hasn't yellowed on me so far.
It will always look like a Marine Tex repair left unfinished. One small(4 oz.) jar would probably fit your needs.
West system will yellow.
For paint, top end is Interlux Perfection over epoxy primer.
Gel-coat can be a pain in the a$$. Lots of sanding to be done.
Q&D is a rattle can of Krylon for plastic.
I'm using some Interlux Brightside single part polyurethane. It rolls and tips ok, I wish I could spray it.
Remember they're boards you're going to eat them up in the long run. Fix em up and go sailing.
In the tool box? How about a spare hub? A grease gun, an electrical tester,breaker bar, spare bulbs,wheel chocks, extra tiedown straps. PB Blaster. flashlights, rum, Boat US card............... Good Luck GH
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'82 Super Cat 15
Hull #315
Virginia
Previously owned: '70 H14, '79 H16, '68 Sailmaster 26, '85 H14T
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Posted: Mar 14, 2018 - 06:23 PM
Colloidal silica is strong, BUT, it's tough sanding.
I rebuilt a board from a 6 meter (20') Cat that had almost totally delaminated. Used microfibres & West.
Here is the info on fillers;
https://www.westsystem.com/the-105-system/
Edited by Edchris177 on Mar 14, 2018 - 06:25 PM.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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Posted: Mar 14, 2018 - 07:45 PM
So any concerns about the parts where the gel coat is worn through on the edges? Is that just normal wear unless you can see actual fibers?
Anyone have experience using marinetex in a syringe? Seems like pretty thick stuff.
Edited by thebda on Mar 14, 2018 - 07:46 PM. -
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Posted: Mar 14, 2018 - 11:03 PM
If it's in wear spots you can get by with about anything since it's gonna just get worn off again anyway. I use UScomposites stuff. I've just always used vinyl ester resin. I even have a few gallons of good epoxy but due to the pumps on them it's hard to mix a small batch so I usually dont go for it unless I need max strength.
Cabosil has been the best thickener I've used. It's dirt cheap and doesnt affect the adhesion as much as using something like baby powder.
5.2 boards are solid glass so easy to repair. I have the same boards and rebuilt the whole tip with vinyl ester/cabosil/chopped up glass fibers. I mixed in some powdered graphite to turn the resin black too since I was painting the boards black anyway.
For touch up repair don't even bother trying to spray. You'll waste more product in the gun and cup than you even spray. Just get a good brush so it won't leave fibers in the job and dab on whatever paint/gel coat you are using. If you add in some thinner or acetone it will help flatten the top coat, so less sanding. You can always wet sand it down to make it as pretty as you want.
My entire boat/boards is just oil based standard rustoleum for 25 bucks a gallon. Takes a week to fully cure in the Florida humidity. Id save the fancy pants paints for boats not from the 80s
Edited by tamumpower1 on Mar 15, 2018 - 12:07 AM. -
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Posted: Mar 14, 2018 - 11:25 PM
MarineTex will reduce with Interlux reducer for Perfection (2333N). I have used thickened West System in a syringe. I cut the tip back a little farther.
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'82 Super Cat 15
Hull #315
Virginia
Previously owned: '70 H14, '79 H16, '68 Sailmaster 26, '85 H14T
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Posted: Mar 15, 2018 - 12:04 AM
So sounds like marine tex is the easiest way to fix the chipped parts, do I need to paint the grey worn stuff? So you're saying just get some oil based paint or enamel or something? (Mines a 2000, not an 80's boat but same same) -
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Posted: Mar 15, 2018 - 09:33 AM
For small non structural repairs i like to use gelcoat with some mil fiber in it for strength
for heartier repairs i use west system with gelcoat on top
for dings, a little waxpaper can be used to spread out the gelcoat/epoxy and reduce fairing after curing
the biggest "thing" is to use as little sanding as possible on your curved serfaces (don't want to sand the shape out of them)
Toolbox:
extra pdf (incase a cute girl shows up and wants a ride)
sockets/ratchet for all the bolt sizes on your boat
I carry an assortment of rudder parts (springs, cams, screws, etc)
spare line
spray silicone lube
sail repair tape
cassete tape (to act as a tell tale on my bridals)
on my boat i carry a small tool kit:
screw drivers, pliers, ring dings, shackle, and 2 part pool epoxy in case i spring a leak somewhere underway
