Replacement jib snorkel :: Catamaran Sailboats at TheBeachcats.com

Welcome anonymous guest

Please Support
TheBeachcats.com

Replacement jib snorkel

jettywookie

Rank: Lubber

Registered: Jul 21, 2016

Last visit: Sep 07, 2019

Posts: 41
Posted: Apr 17, 2018 - 02:44 PM

Any ideas for a replacement job snorkel for my Hobie getaway? I can’t bring myself to buy a $120 dollar piece of tarp with a zipper sewn into it!
bill40421SE

Rank: Mate

Registered: Aug 15, 2010

Last visit: Oct 19, 2024

Posts: 301
Posted: Apr 17, 2018 - 03:00 PM

Whirlwind made me a custom jib snorkel for my 21SE and a new jib sail for the same price I paid back in '93 for a jib only....great quality.

Great value...

--
Bill 404 21SE
--
nohuhu

Rank: Mate

Registered: Sep 16, 2016

Last visit: Sep 10, 2021

Posts: 274
Posted: Apr 17, 2018 - 03:32 PM

Suck it up Wookie! Better than replacing a jib. Or taking it up/down every sail.

After procrastinating, like you, I got mine from Murrays.

Should last many, many years.

--
Prindle 18
96734
--
dssaak

Rank: Mate

Registered: Nov 18, 2005

Last visit: Apr 19, 2024

Posts: 236
Posted: Apr 17, 2018 - 07:41 PM

Buy a sewing machine and build one for yourself. I have sewn about a dozen now for my boats and friends. I think you can do one for about $35 in materials. It is not hard and you pretty much pay for a used sewing machine. Do another project and you are "making" money.

--
dk

Blade F-16
Hobie 14
Corsair F-242
Mirage 25 (Sold)
Hobie Tiger (Sold)
Hobie Tiger (Sold)
TomCat 6.2 (Sold)
--
gahamby

Rank: Mate

Registered: Feb 05, 2011

Last visit: Jun 15, 2021

Posts: 575
Posted: Apr 17, 2018 - 09:59 PM

I got one from Slo for about $75 for my SC15.

--
'82 Super Cat 15
Hull #315
Virginia
Previously owned: '70 H14, '79 H16, '68 Sailmaster 26, '85 H14T
--
Andinista

Rank: Mate

Registered: Aug 18, 2003

Last visit: Dec 13, 2023

Posts: 880
Posted: Apr 19, 2018 - 06:25 AM

I sewed mine, the full length zipper was a bit expensive in the local store, so i put one only in the upper 1/3 or so, the remaining 2/3 is just a triangle, like a smalller jib. Works fine, i made the zippered part a bit too tight, so full length zipper would have been a pain.. i made it same width that i saw online, the problem is that the jib unrolls a bit after tying it up, uniess i tie it firmly back with the jib sheet (temporarily of course)
Andinista

Rank: Mate

Registered: Aug 18, 2003

Last visit: Dec 13, 2023

Posts: 880
Posted: Apr 19, 2018 - 06:49 AM

In any case feeding the sock from abobe the jib clew is not ideal, too high if beachwheels are on, which is typically the case
MN3

Rank: Master Chief

Registered: Jun 20, 2006

Last visit: May 22, 2024

Posts: 7089
Posted: Apr 19, 2018 - 08:30 AM

can you guys please explain to me why you would go through the time and expense of raising and lowering a snorkel when raising and lowering a jib takes about the same amount of time (3 minutes) ?

To me: (but to each their own) this creates windage in storms (creating extra stress on your fittings and boat), is a perfect place for dirt and bugs to live, traps moisture (bad for hardware and sail) and costs about 1/4 of an actual jib
Andinista

Rank: Mate

Registered: Aug 18, 2003

Last visit: Dec 13, 2023

Posts: 880
Posted: Apr 19, 2018 - 09:19 AM

Yes, it seems a bit stupid.. it's the storing part that is simplified, I just wrap the sock with the tramp cover real quick, compared to rolling the jib with the main on the tramp, particularly if your crew already left for something more fun.. But yes, it's not necessarily worth the money... Bottom line for me is that I makes things easier so I use it.

I don't leave it for long periods of time, just when I'm staying multiple days. Last summer I used it all the time but I changed my mind to make it last longer. No problem for the jib during summer, the sail tube gets pretty hot actually, so I think the jib had a better time than the main..
I wouldn't keep it on during winter.

Edited by Andinista on Apr 19, 2018 - 09:22 AM.
Andinista

Rank: Mate

Registered: Aug 18, 2003

Last visit: Dec 13, 2023

Posts: 880
Posted: Apr 19, 2018 - 09:32 AM

So my real solution is a sail box... but that's more money
Dogboy

Rank: Mate

Registered: Mar 19, 2004

Last visit: Nov 21, 2024

Posts: 964
Posted: Apr 19, 2018 - 09:44 AM

On the Getaway, the jib is (more or less) permanently attached to the forestay. It can't be lowered, so you need a snorkel if storing the boat mast up and if you trailer, the snorkel is still preferred because otherwise you would need to remove the entire forestay assembly from the mast to store the jib in the sailbox.

Otherwise, I agree. Raising and lowering a snorkel is about the same amount of effort as raising and lowering the jib, so it doesn't really save anything and opens up the potential for jib damage.

sm
MN3

Rank: Master Chief

Registered: Jun 20, 2006

Last visit: May 22, 2024

Posts: 7089
Posted: Apr 19, 2018 - 09:45 AM

Quoteit's the storing part that is simplified

Gotcha

Quotethe sail tube gets pretty hot actually, so I think the jib had a better time than the main..
I wouldn't keep it on during winter.

I drilled holes in my sailbox for ventilation, put some fine mesh to stop any bugs and angles slot cover (to keep out rain)

Similar to this but square and flat (with holes for screws/bolts)

Edited by MN3 on Apr 19, 2018 - 09:46 AM.
Andinista

Rank: Mate

Registered: Aug 18, 2003

Last visit: Dec 13, 2023

Posts: 880
Posted: Apr 19, 2018 - 09:54 AM

I thought about something like that but wasn't too sure because of rain or water on the road.
Another idea is to cover with a yoga mat the part exposed to the sun, what do you think about that?
MN3

Rank: Master Chief

Registered: Jun 20, 2006

Last visit: May 22, 2024

Posts: 7089
Posted: Apr 19, 2018 - 10:00 AM

QuoteI thought about something like that but wasn't too sure because of rain or water on the road.

I placed them on both sides of the trailer box - near the top
never had any water get ing
I would think the best place on a tube would be the end covers, where it is flat and could be placed at the "top"

QuoteAnother idea is to cover with a yoga mat the part exposed to the sun, what do you think about that?

cover what?
Andinista

Rank: Mate

Registered: Aug 18, 2003

Last visit: Dec 13, 2023

Posts: 880
Posted: Apr 19, 2018 - 10:41 AM

cover the tube, as an insulation
MN3

Rank: Master Chief

Registered: Jun 20, 2006

Last visit: May 22, 2024

Posts: 7089
Posted: Apr 19, 2018 - 11:48 AM

Andinistacover the tube, as an insulation

Oh -

I wouldn't - i think it will trap in heat and moisture
nohuhu

Rank: Mate

Registered: Sep 16, 2016

Last visit: Sep 10, 2021

Posts: 274
Posted: Apr 19, 2018 - 08:51 PM

Quotecan you guys please explain to me why you would go through the time and expense of raising and lowering a snorkel when raising and lowering a jib takes about the same amount of time (3 minutes) ?

As noted, with a furler in the mix, raising and securing the jib becomes a lot more work. Particularly if the downhaul needs to be secured through the tiny holes on top of the harken furlers, like mine. All that space is taken up by the forestay hardware.

You need to do this while holding the perfect amount of cord in the furling drum, which tends to spin out while you are working, and while the sail is flogging. Then you still have to attach the jib blocks to the jib sheet, with perfect knots and equal tension. All this is better done with 4 hands, so if you like to solo,...

QuoteTo me: (but to each their own) this creates windage in storms (creating extra stress on your fittings and boat), is a perfect place for dirt and bugs to live, traps moisture (bad for hardware and sail) and costs about 1/4 of an actual jib
That's a really good point about the windage. It can oscillate a lot when blown from behind. Especially a loose, oversized snorkel. It's better than a loose unattended jib though.

Sizing the snorkels length and diameter is important. Not too loose or too tight. Also long enough to cover the furling hardware. There is no problem with moisture, bugs and debris in my experience. unless you leave it closed for an entire season, in which case the jib should come down.

By comparison, raising and lowering my snorkel using the main halyard is a breeze. I just dip the bow, while on the beach wheels, and I can reach the zipper from the ground. I added a couple feet of string to the zipper pull. I quick-tie that string off to the blocks or elsewhere and then I have both hands free to manage the snorkel and halyard, single-handed.

--
Prindle 18
96734
--
MN3

Rank: Master Chief

Registered: Jun 20, 2006

Last visit: May 22, 2024

Posts: 7089
Posted: Apr 20, 2018 - 08:13 AM

QuoteAs noted, with a furler in the mix, raising and securing the jib becomes a lot more work. Particularly if the downhaul needs to be secured through the tiny holes on top of the harken furlers, like mine. All that space is taken up by the forestay hardware.

I have a hobie style harken furler on one of my mystere's, and a regular harken furler on the other

I NEVER reeve my halyard through the holes... those are for a shackle, not for running lines through ( but what ever works for you - ymmv)
The hobie 18 manual shows using a clevis pin on the forestay (top hole) and a shackle on a lower hole for the jib halyard. I omit the pin and simply use a shackle for both.

Hardware? I don't need no stinking hardware! :)
I have sister clips on my jib halyard. After the sail is up, i undo the clips and I reeve the halyard through the shackle on the furler and place a truckers hitch in it and secure it. If you need more purchase you can run it through the shackle, back up and through the grommet at on the jib tack as many times as you wish - put a few wraps around the halyard and forestay and secure it with a rolling hitch. Using a high modulus line (dyneema, vecrtan, etc) here is a good idea to avoid stretching under load

QuoteYou need to do this while holding the perfect amount of cord in the furling drum, which tends to spin out while you are working, and while the sail is flogging.

I put turns on the furler to coil up the furler line prior to raising the jib... if it unfurls some during the process (or i forget to prefurl the line up) i simply turn the jib around forestay a few times prior to connecting the jibsheets - not hard at all

QuoteThen you still have to attach the jib blocks to the jib sheet, with perfect knots and equal tension. All this is better done with 4 hands, so if you like to solo,...

I sail solo 95% of the time, and often

I leave my jib sheets connected to the blocks and make a simple pigtail that i attach (via a knot and loop/soft-shackle) to the jib clew once it is raised (can be done with a shackle/ carabiner (img below) ... it really is simple and easy, even w 2 hands. Can be done without help unless it's honking wind, and then it is nice to have someone hold the clew to avoid it flopping around

The only issue here is if you forget to put the jib sheets/blocks infront of the mast ball before you step the mast - if you use a pig tail, then you will have to undo one side of your jib sheet to get it infront. I simply leave the sheet infront at all times (during transit/storage) and it's almost never an issue.

Edited by MN3 on Apr 20, 2018 - 08:32 AM.
arch

Rank: Mate

Registered: Jan 25, 2004

Last visit: Apr 06, 2021

Posts: 267
Posted: Apr 21, 2018 - 01:43 AM

I had a furling jib on my Nacra which I left up all summer. the first jibsock was made by a local tent/awning maker but for my second one, i bought one they were marketing on ebay. i agree, the cost of parts and the hassle of making it yourself just doesn't make sense. bite the bullet and spend your time on the water.

j

--
Aquacat 12 (sold)...'87 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'03 Nacra Inter18 (sold)
Venture 15 (sold)....'89 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'91 Nacra 5.8NA (sold)
'99 Nacra Inter20 (sold)
--