It looks like you've got the main sheet cleated more than its not. Is that correct? I've been keeping in uncleated in the event of an unexpected puff so I can quickly depower. The downside is I am likely never sheeted in as far as I should be ...
that was pretty med air, and as long as no one is "above you" (like when zack was just above me in the video), if you get hit with a gust you can usually steer upwind for a second and negate the power of the gust/ reduce heeling (opposite when going downwind - you need to steer downwind to reduce power)
the real issue is when you are on a reach and don't know which way to steer off the power in a gust
when i am in real wind, i don't cleat nearly as often
but cleating is a good way to preserve strength if sailing for all day
you can adjust (well, i can ...) the sheeting angle of the main blocks so it's just right ... easy to cleat easy to uncleat - problem with that is ... sheeting angles can be very different on and off the wire
I can adjust mine as well, but I think they are set at the highest angle for use while on the trapeze. I've left them there because that angle requires me to lift up to cleat, avoiding the main sheet getting cleated unexpectedly.
hmmmm.
typically being on the wire results in a lower sheeting angle (as you should be sitting about deck level vs sitting on it, and your hand/arm 1' above the deck | give or take)
If you are comfortable un-cleatted, and since you don't have an enormous sail to hold... it's not a big deal at all
I think it is certainly much better to err in the side of safety (harder to cleat, easier to uncleat)
Are you referring to the tiller arrangement on the ARC? I like the system a lot, don't have to pass the hiking stick behind the mainsheet when tacking/jibing. And the pull is from 2' ahead of the rear beam. This allows the skipper to be located fwd of the crew, who is running the traveler to control the power of the main, and positioning him just ahead of the rear beam maximizes his pulling power(it's a brutal job when fully powered up). This maintains sail shape when depowering, and quite precise adjustments can be made quickly. Carefully controlling power with the traveler allows the skipper to maintain a straight course, keeping the windward hull just clear of the surface.
For those who didn't notice it in the video, an arm pivoting off the underside of the rear beam, controls the rudders via pushrods to the rudder heads, which allows the hiking stick to work from a position about 2' forward of the rear beam, better leverage, and easier to flip the stick to the opposite side of the boat when tacking.
Are you referring to the tiller arrangement on the ARC? I like the system a lot, don't have to pass the hiking stick behind the mainsheet when tacking/jibing. And the pull is from 2' ahead of the rear beam. This allows the skipper to be located fwd of the crew, who is running the traveler to control the power of the main, and positioning him just ahead of the rear beam maximizes his pulling power(it's a brutal job when fully powered up). This maintains sail shape when depowering, and quite precise adjustments can be made quickly. Carefully controlling power with the traveler allows the skipper to maintain a straight course, keeping the windward hull just clear of the surface.
For those who didn't notice it in the video, an arm pivoting off the underside of the rear beam, controls the rudders via pushrods to the rudder heads, which allows the hiking stick to work from a position about 2' forward of the rear beam, better leverage, and easier to flip the stick to the opposite side of the boat when tacking.Edited by davefarmer on Aug 08, 2018 - 03:49 PM.
I'm with Andrew that it's very interesting. I find that when I have the tiller extended, even if I move it far enough out to clear the sail, I hit the bottom batten.