Waterproof Deck Plates? :: Catamaran Sailboats at TheBeachcats.com

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Waterproof Deck Plates?

gobigkahuna

Rank: Lubber

Registered: Jun 07, 2017

Last visit: Jan 23, 2019

Posts: 73
Posted: Nov 20, 2018 - 12:20 PM

My amas each have two 6 inch deck inspection plates that are dated and appear to be leaking. Some are the "screw in" type and the others "pop in". Both appear to be leaking and I'd like to replace them. I found these at a local boat supply store, price is right and they appear to be no worse than what WM sells. What's your experience?
spags

Rank: Lubber

Registered: Dec 27, 2016

Last visit: May 24, 2019

Posts: 57
Posted: Nov 20, 2018 - 06:49 PM

Just curious, where did you find the leaks in your deck plate? I may have the same problem. Thanks

--
Frank
Prindle 15/Hobie 16/Hobie 14T
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gobigkahuna

Rank: Lubber

Registered: Jun 07, 2017

Last visit: Jan 23, 2019

Posts: 73
Posted: Nov 21, 2018 - 05:57 AM

spagsJust curious, where did you find the leaks in your deck plate? I may have the same problem. Thanks

The only place I can see where it might be leaking is where the cover pops into the frame. The deck has a slight camber, so when the deck plate frame was installed, it was bowed slightly. There's a slight (maybe 1/16" gap) on two sides of the deck plate and each ama has two deck plates. There's literally no place else for the water to come in.
texastuma

Rank: Mate

Registered: Nov 22, 2012

Last visit: Nov 20, 2024

Posts: 410
Posted: Nov 21, 2018 - 11:09 AM

I prefer the screw in style; one can feel like it gets a better seal.

On your current hatch, is there still the large O-ring gasket? I have found many times, the caulking used is subpar. I recommend pulling the hatches off the deck. Clean the deck really well. If there is non-skid texture, sand that flat. Many times if you don't have enough caulking, it can leak through the non-skid texture. I would also look at filling the (6) mounting holes with epoxy. Carefully, redrill these holes when you remount the hatch base. When mounting the hatch, I will typically have the hatch and base together to make sure it mounts level. Some decks have a slight curve and if you tighten all the edges flat, the base can get twisted where the hatch doesn't screw in square - if that makes sense. This is main reason I prefer the screw in style vs the pop-in style. I have had the hatch base on a Prindle pop up on the front end and funnel water straight in the hull. The original fasteners pulled through the fiberglass (and no, they do not overdrill the holes and epoxy before mounting hardware). We used to have the pop-in hatch style on our Condor 40 - until the lid would pop out while sailing. That really sucked while mid Gulf of Mexico.

--
Scott

Prindle Fleet 2
TCDYC

Prindle 18-2 Mod "FrankenKitty"
Tornado Classic "Fast Furniture"
Prindle 19 "Mr. Wiggly"
Nacra 5.8 "De ja vu"
Nacra 5.0
Nacra 5.8
Tornadoes (Reg White)
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gobigkahuna

Rank: Lubber

Registered: Jun 07, 2017

Last visit: Jan 23, 2019

Posts: 73
Posted: Nov 21, 2018 - 04:48 PM

@texastuma - You pretty much outlined the process I planned on taking. :)
MN3

Rank: Master Chief

Registered: Jun 20, 2006

Last visit: May 22, 2024

Posts: 7089
Posted: Nov 22, 2018 - 08:21 AM

what is a pop style hatch?
when i google it (and look at murray's) i see square hatches that have mechanical latches (turn to lock), and other odd assorted hatches

Edited by MN3 on Nov 22, 2018 - 08:23 AM.
mattson

Rank: Online Pioneer

Registered: Apr 23, 2002

Last visit: Feb 18, 2022

Posts: 211
Posted: Nov 22, 2018 - 11:38 AM

Hobie 18s used to come stock with the pop style hatch. I'm not sure they even make them anymore. Basically they resemble the round screw type hatch, but have a loop of line that you pull to "pop" the hatch loose. To close, you snap it back down into place. I think these are obsolete, replaced with the screw type.

The screw type have some issues. You've got to be careful with sand as it will damage the seal and make it the lid tough to unscrew. Otherwise, too loose and they leak. Too tight and you can't remove without inserting the handle ends of piers into the indents for leverage to unscrew.

I recently saw hinge type deck ports on a cat. They would be way easier to open, and the seals probably last longer as there is no friction wear from opening and closing. And they are captive, so you won't lose the lid overboard. I don't know the brand, but they looked something like the ones in the link below:

https://www.boathardware.com.au/round-hinged-access-hatch-inspection-port-small-28

The only downside I see is they are probably more fragile in the open position and subject to damage.

--
Bill Mattson
Prindle 19 "Gelli Bean"
Prindle 19 "Cat's Pajamas"
Nacra 5.2 (Will sail her a bit and let her name herself)
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MN3

Rank: Master Chief

Registered: Jun 20, 2006

Last visit: May 22, 2024

Posts: 7089
Posted: Nov 22, 2018 - 03:26 PM

thanks Bill!

i have weird one's on my m20
they "drop" in and take a 1/4 turn?
to remove you have to spin them and they will literally pop up a 1/2" on so
they work pretty well but i am sure they leak

I have leaky ports on both my cat's (each cat has 4 ports, one of them being a large square hatch) and will need to deal with sooner or later - the later possibly being a very full hull after a long time in the capsized position

happy thanksgiving amigo!

Edited by MN3 on Nov 22, 2018 - 03:28 PM.
Edchris177

Rank: Chief

Registered: Nov 26, 2009

Last visit: Aug 10, 2024

Posts: 2531
Posted: Nov 22, 2018 - 05:14 PM

QuoteHobie 18s used to come stock with the pop style hatch. I'm not sure they even make them anymore. Basically they resemble the round screw type hatch, but have a loop of line that you pull to "pop" the hatch loose. To close, you snap it back down into place. I think these are obsolete, replaced with the screw type.

Bill has this correct. Here is one on my ‘84 H18 Magnum, (before I restored it). The handle is simply a piece of thick line with the ends pushed through holes in the lid, then stopper knotted on the underside. Of course this means they have to leak.
https://www.thebeachcats.…120280&g2_serialNumber=4
I removed them both, & replaced with Hobie stock, IIRC, made by Viking.
I would do this replacement with the boat apart. Count on the old holes not matching those on the new ports. It’s an easy job,( if the hull is upside down on saw horses, gravity is then your friend),to reach in, sand a bit, wipe with acetone, & lay some narrow strips of wetted cloth around the perimeter, then drill new holes.
You can buy nylon machine screws, I had a bunch of short SS, I think they are better.
Note, you can buy hTches that have a curve in the mounting plate. That is a much better solution if the deck is not totally flat. Hobie lists flat & curved bases.

Edited by Edchris177 on Nov 22, 2018 - 06:38 PM.

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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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mattson

Rank: Online Pioneer

Registered: Apr 23, 2002

Last visit: Feb 18, 2022

Posts: 211
Posted: Nov 23, 2018 - 11:52 AM

If needed, here's an article I put together years ago on installing deck ports on a Hobie 16.

https://www.thebeachcats.…archives/v1-i1/ports.htm

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Bill Mattson
Prindle 19 "Gelli Bean"
Prindle 19 "Cat's Pajamas"
Nacra 5.2 (Will sail her a bit and let her name herself)
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