Tips for quick set up
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- Rank: Mate
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Posted: May 05, 2019 - 03:16 PM
For the rudders I drilled two small holes in underside of rudder cross bar and use two lines with old bungee hooks for quick connection. One line is run back to main sheet cleat, take less than a minute to tie down and is rock solid.
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- Rank: Master Chief
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Posted: May 06, 2019 - 08:23 AM
Not a fan of drilling crossbars
Why not just attach to the tiller extension swivel?
i don't mean to be rude but drilling your cross bar is asking for it to break in those spots if you ever put too much pressure on it (i.e. fighting with getting a rudder locked back in the down position, during a capsize or hanging on to the tiller extension during/after a capsize
lastly - I wouldn't travel very far with your boards on the boat like that
one good pothole and they will slam down - and that is not a good thing (can worm out holes, bend bolts and crack castings. -
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Posted: May 06, 2019 - 09:18 AM
I have to agree on this one. Most likely it will break in rough conditions. We had the cross bar break on our Tornado at the center hole where the tiller arm attaches. Of course it was during a tack in windy conditions with big waves. I am sure we would have been a sight with one of us at each rudder steering for the 2 miles back to the beach.
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Pete Knapp
Schodack landing,NY
Goodall Viper,AHPC Viper,Nacra I20
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Posted: May 06, 2019 - 09:34 AM
all depends
if you have a very short trip and very little bouncing you are probably fine IF you have enough room to drive with them down
If you have a long trip or lots of bouncing ... it is in your best interest to remove them
IF you don't have enough clearance with them in the down position - you should remove them (just incase they fall down during transit
either way driving with rudders on adds wear to them, the bolts, the holes, the gugions etc ... -
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Posted: May 06, 2019 - 02:00 PM
In case you leave them on, make sure to limit side movement too. -
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Posted: May 06, 2019 - 02:54 PM
None taken, I figured it's a single 3/16" hole in the bottom, If the pipe is going to break it will be in the center where it has a 1/4" thru hole. Either way the tube is very think, it's going to take some serious force to break it. I have a spare H18 rudder crossbar I tested as a righting pole and it handled 225lbs of me testing it in my backyard...
Agreed if the boards ever dropped on the road it would be fatal but I've never had an issue over thousands of miles. They are synched down very good, I cant forcibly release them by hand. -
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Posted: May 07, 2019 - 12:36 AM
I use bungees on both sides near each rudder in such a way that they keep the rudders in the upright position. I haven't had any issues so far but I do see your point of course. I know one big jolt and a bungee could snap causing one side to drop and possibly do damage to the rudders. Yeah, I think I have just been convinced to remove them for travel. Lol.
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Marty
1984 Hobie 16 Redline Yellow Nationals, "Yellow Fever"
Opelika, Al / Lake Martin
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Posted: May 09, 2019 - 06:26 PM
I bought a new Nacra 500 in 06 and sailed it for 10 years. If I am correct in assuming the mast is the same on the 5.0 I feel I'm qualified to give you some advice. First off I'm in total agreement with a previous writer on having the boat backwards on the trailer and would like to add to that. The yoke on your trailer is your 2nd person and will enable you to step the mast by yourself. You will have to build two mast caddies, one for the trailer yoke and one for the center cross tube. The reason for a new one for the mast yoke is the mast on your Nacra has to be sideways prior to stepping. In other words, the main axis of the mast has to be parallel to the cross tube. You can easily build the mast caddies out of pressure treated two by fours and make the one for the center cross tube with an opening to fit down over the nylon ball. Standing between the hulls, slide the mast back to the ball and install your captive pin. Next, tie a line to your headstay and run it through your bridle and back to a cleat on your mast. Keep the mast sideways for at least half the distance when you walk it up! Take up the slack on that line, pull it real tight and tie it off. Now you should already have a piece of 3/16 tied to the headstay and run that through the ring or shackle on the bridle. Simultaneously tighten it while you loosen the line that you used to hold the mast up. I find it too difficult to use a shroud adjuster or turnbuckle. Just make a few loops to give purchase and you can get the rig plenty tight and finish it off with some half hitches. About the rudders. I always saved time by leaving them on. My friends disagree but if you do, tie them real tight and straight so there is no windage. Tie them so they cannot possibly come down. The little Nacra is a great single-hander and good for two when things really get going. Because it has diamond wires it'll take a little coordination to walk the mast up but I was 67 and 150 when I was doing it. Just be methodical!
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Bill Townsend
G-Cat 5.0
Sarasota
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