Is a roller furler arrangement like Murray's Roller Furling Kit rigged parallel with the existing forestay (running right next to it) or does it replace the forestay (the forestay function is taken over by the jib/furler rig?
Thank you.
I think I found my answer:
"How a Sail for a Roller Furler Differs from Its Hanked On Cousin
01/07/15
There are two fundamentally different styles of furling. They can be looked upon as dinghy systems and keel boat systems. Dinghy systems are simple two piece systems, having a drum assembly at the bottom, and a swivel at the top. Nothing connects the two components except for the sail itself. Sails used with this system typically have rigging wire installed in the luff. This wire acts as the boat's forestay. When the mast is stepped the rig is supported by the wire luff. An additional forestay is not used as it would have less tension than the wire luff and tangle in the sail when the sail is furled. A two piece, dinghy style system is not intended to be a reefing system. It is only a storage device to eliminate the heads'l while docking or when a spinnaker is hoisted."
It works with your current forestay. The swivel goes on the forestay above the pigtail, and the furler drum connects at the bridles on the lower end of the forestay. The forestay must be shortened to accommodate the swivel and drum length. As the furler drum spins the forestay to let the jib out, it is also spinning the jib halyard and pigtail.
-- Sheet In!
Bob
_/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA --
APS does a great job and I like thier "end of season" sale.. some great prices on the wish list stuff I accumulate over the year..
With the Murray's kit you are getting a plug and play option... the fore-stay pig tail, the jam cleat for the line, the pad eye, and the line guide off the furler for $389.00... No need to re-figure your mast rake etc.....
Just put the end in a vice and clamp down on it to compress it to fit... Doesn't take much and I have done this on three Prindles... never a problem..
not sure how that is possible
if you have a 20' forestay and you add a pigtail, furler and swivel... you are adding length to your forestay system - how could a not need a shorter forestay?
I guess it makes sense if you had a pigtail there and Murrays gives you a 5" shorter, reswaged one. I ordered a new P18 forestay with the furling kit so I can't tell you which components Murrays tweaked...
Andrew, appreciate the advice on the roller hardware. Will that low profile harken accomodate the swaged thimble found on our forestays, or are you expected to use a D shackle, etc?
if you have a 20' forestay and you add a pigtail, furler and swivel... you are adding length to your forestay system - how could a not need a shorter forestay?
Prindles have an upper (pigtail) and lower forestay… the upper (pigtail) is the one the gets shortened to accommodate the new hardware… the lower forestay does not get altered.. this accommodates the sail luff
Just to be clear, do they shorten both sides of the pigtail? The forestay and halyard cables, equally?
I did the whole replacement, bridals and all at the same time. When all was done, I ended up slightly shorter, and unable to add as much mast rake, for tuning, as I would like. Or as much downhaul. My turnbuckles are maxed out.
I’m thinking about putting a D shackle or other hardware in-line to gain back a few inches. I don’t know if a shroud adjuster can be added now.
Any advice on doing this with the Murrays kit installed?
Just to be clear, do they shorten both sides of the pigtail? The forestay and halyard cables, equally?
Good question.... I don't know.... I am pretty certain the fore-stay portion is shortened I never thought to check the side where the halayard threads through..
When I got to this point I still had the old upper (pigtail) and lower forstay... I laid them out out next to the new set up... there was about a 1/4" difference in favor of the old set up.. that is it new set up was shorter...
With that, when I put one on my Prindle 18 like yours there was a little finessing to get the rake right... but I didn't have to change out any hardware once I put the roller furler on... My question is how much rake do you want?
I think I lost couple inches changing to the marine eye system. It may have fewer threads on it than the original bracket and it required I use a slightly shorter turnbuckle, because the threads reversed.
I'd like to get enough extra rake to drop 2 more pinholes in the sidestays AND recover at least an inch of adjustability on the front turnbuckle (1/2" each side). I'm at the 4th hole down now with no room on the turnbuckle to go lower.
My kid's not around to check my geometry, so I can't say if +1" of forestay = +1" of rake = +1" of sidestay. But I guestimate I should add 2-3" to the front.
Andrew, appreciate the advice on the roller hardware. Will that low profile harken accomodate the swaged thimble found on our forestays, or are you expected to use a D shackle, etc?
my 5.5 has a Tipan jib halyard inline block assembly (i think that's where that came from)
My 6.0 has a long D shackle inline
PS - not suggesting anyone change out a working ronstan for a harken - just my personal preference
Nope, $389 for the whole kit for a Prindle from Murray's... I just bought one..
SWEET! i didn't see that when i was looking
my main point was - I myself have purchased drums without realizing I could get both for about the same cost
Prindles have an upper (pigtail) and lower forestay… the upper (pigtail) is the one the gets shortened to accommodate the new hardware… the lower forestay does not get altered.. this accommodates the sail luff
Upper Foresatay
Gotcha! i forgot that Prindles had a 2 part forestay (ring and s hook)