So, I have the Harken 6:1 mainsheet blocks now, they are fantastic, ratchet sounds more beefy/substantial than the old Seaways and the line runs very free and fast, cleats well and all, love them. Is there some way to keep the lower block from falling over when the mainsheet is loose, like when on the beach? My lower block is attached to the traveler car by just a pin and ring ding if that matters. Is there some trick to this or should I just always keep a little tension on the sheet anyway to keep it from falling over? Thanks for any advice on this.
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Marty
1984 Hobie 16 Redline Yellow Nationals, "Yellow Fever"
Opelika, Al / Lake Martin
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Lower Mainsheet Block, Keeping it Upright?
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Posted: Jul 18, 2019 - 08:38 AM
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Posted: Jul 18, 2019 - 09:34 AM
If it won't stay up,, you need some Harken Viagra -
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Posted: Jul 18, 2019 - 10:04 AM
Get a stand up spring...
https://www.apsltd.com/aps-advisor/install-standup-springs-boots-sailboat-blocks/
BOOM - problem solved.
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John Schwartz
Ventura, CA
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Posted: Jul 18, 2019 - 10:23 AM
why do you need it to stand up when not in use?
my upper is on a hook
when i am beached i just take the entire assembly off the boom and just lay mine down on the tramp
as long as you aren't getting tangled - is there really a need?
i guess if you are worried about scuffing up your beam it is an issue
but yes the spring might help but i haven't seen springs hold up a mainblock- only see them on jib blocks or single blocks
Edited by MN3 on Jul 18, 2019 - 10:26 AM. -
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Posted: Jul 18, 2019 - 10:35 AM
I'm with MN3 here.
I prefer to have a snap shackle on the upper block anyways, so I just pull the release and lay the whole assembly on the tramp.
Plus, with no mainsheet attached the main is free to weather vane however it likes.
I don't want anything excessive that may snag, twist or tangle my lines.
Edited by badfish on Jul 18, 2019 - 10:36 AM.
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Joshua
Texas Gulf Coast
'82 Prindle 16 (Badfish)
'02 Hobie Wave (Unnamed Project)
‘87 Hobie 18 (Sold)
‘89 Hobie 17 (ill-advised project boat, Sold)
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Posted: Jul 18, 2019 - 10:51 AM
snap shack is definatly better than a hook
even with the bigger style hook - they can bend with enough force
my current setup
Edited by MN3 on Jul 18, 2019 - 10:55 AM. -
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Posted: Jul 18, 2019 - 07:45 PM
not needed . . . why bother. . .
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Philip
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Posted: Jul 18, 2019 - 10:15 PM
Harken Viagra, now that’s funny!!!
My only real concern is that the mainsheet got a little tangled from the lower block swiveling around and sorta hindered the launch through the waves when I lost my phone and glasses.
Edited by martyr on Jul 19, 2019 - 08:01 AM. -
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Posted: Jul 19, 2019 - 08:18 AM
you do need to ensure you are properly reeved without any turns around your block prior to launch or you may have issues - adding a spring will probably make that situation worse if it happens again (line now twisted around your block and tangled in a spring
my condolences to your glasses and phone -
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Posted: Jul 19, 2019 - 03:14 PM
I can empathize. We have to push our boats to the water on a beam reach, so the main traveler and sheet are usually let out so the boom can swing. There's enough slack line that the block can turn and the sheets can dip in the water as you turn her into the wind/waves to remove the cattrax, drop the rudders, etc.
I've been able to tame the tangles by limiting the traveler somewhat and threading the section of loose sheet (nearest the block) under the windward hiking strap. It provides a little sheet tension and it's easy to reach and pull this out when I power up the sail.
Then all I need to worry about is avoiding the shallow reef and nearby pilings..
...and did I remember to tie those stopper knots?
...and I thought YOU put the bungs in!!
And I always assume that ANYTHING not lashed to me or the boat will end up in the water.
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Prindle 18
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Posted: Jul 19, 2019 - 07:49 PM
Haha, yes, lots going on when crashing through waves, pushing the boat and trying not to die!!! I like the idea of stowing the excess line under the strap and keeping a little tension in the line to keep the block facing in the right direction and upright, simple solution that I think would work for me. Thanks everyone for the thoughts on this subject.
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Marty
1984 Hobie 16 Redline Yellow Nationals, "Yellow Fever"
Opelika, Al / Lake Martin
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Posted: Jul 25, 2019 - 12:21 PM
Hi Marty,
I have seen a video on this somewhere. what they did was tie some shockcord from the traveler to the blocs on each side to keep the block upright.
I think it was this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vjGEppjozoQ -
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Posted: Jul 25, 2019 - 12:29 PM
The bungees will also keep the lower block from spinning around and getting tangled that way.
On my H17 (same block/traveler arrangement as the 16), I use a quick pin to connect the lower block to the traveler. On the beach, I pull the pin and take all the slack out between the blocks. This keeps the line from getting tangled and since the blocks are up in the air, less chance of sand getting in the blocks than if the upper block was released.
When launching thru surf, you really need to make sure you have your act together. Things happen quick. Make sure all your sheets are free of tangles and are easily reached from the side of the boat. Tiller should be right next to you, ready to go. Have the sails sheeted in for medium power so all you need to do is shove the boat in the water, jump on, drop rudders, pull on a little more sheet, and off she goes.
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Posted: Jul 25, 2019 - 03:42 PM
Oh great! One more thing to smack me in the head, along with the Boom!
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Prindle 18
96734
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Posted: Jul 26, 2019 - 08:18 AM
Thanks for posting that! I had seen this mod/fix with the small diameter shockcord before (~2:30 in the vid), but I couldn't recall exactly how it was rigged, so I had not replied. This can indeed be an issue on the H16 when the mainsheet is loose and the boom is flopping around....parking, broad reaching in light air/lumpy water, etc. It's made worse when the lower block is pinned directly to the traveler rather than using a shackle between the two (which is desirable to increase mast rake). I'm gonna try it myself!
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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16
Clinton, Mississippi
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Posted: Jul 27, 2019 - 12:23 AM
Thanks for the input on this subject and thanks to a1cnc for the video link, much appreciated!!!
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Marty
1984 Hobie 16 Redline Yellow Nationals, "Yellow Fever"
Opelika, Al / Lake Martin
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Posted: Jul 27, 2019 - 09:03 AM
After sailing for 3 hours last night with my new to me Harkens I will be doing this mod SOON! Dam things like to fall over almost every tack! -
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Posted: Jul 28, 2019 - 10:52 AM
So I did this mod this morning. Took all of about 10 minutes with cutting the 1/4" shock cord, melting the ends and tying it up.
SO, first I tied Both shock cords to a hole in the side of the Harken cam adjusting plate, One on the left the other on the right side. I used a lower hole to keep it from getting in the way. Then I tied the other end through the outer end rectangular hole in the traveler. I tensioned the first side to pull the block a bit towards the side I was working on, in my case I started on the left. Then I did the other side and just adjusted the knot until the block stood up straight.
I used (2) 9" long pieces, Tied (2) half hitches on each end to keep it from slipping.
I will see how it works tonight. Last night without it EVERY time I tacked the dam block would wrap around and hang up if there was even a second of slack in the mainsheet.
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Posted: Jul 28, 2019 - 10:54 AM
I took the boat out last night and I can say this mod made my life a WHOLE lot better, Well at least my time sailing better
I would recommend this to anyone with harkens at least. I didn't seem to have as much of an issue with my seaways but I didn't have my seaways converted to 6:1 so that might be the difference.
Edited by a1cnc on Jul 29, 2019 - 08:57 AM.
