Seems I've inherited about 3 or 4 types of trapeze systems, but never used one. Whats the favorite? I doubt I'll need a ton of adjustment regularly (maybe crew position), but have the fiddle blocks for them.
What do you guys recommend? Need to trap out at 12-15 to be able to get more out of her, I think.
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Chuck C
NACRA 500 Mk2
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Setting up trapeze-best type to use?
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Posted: Sep 28, 2020 - 06:51 PM
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Posted: Sep 29, 2020 - 11:07 AM
For the 21 you'll want a double. A continuous wire for each side might be preferable. Don't bother with an adjustable unless you are racing. Just get it how you like it and remember the "dog bone" gives you about 6 inches of adjustment anyway. A full back harness will be more comfortable for long periods. A "butt bucket" is easier to stow and will give your abs some work. Be sure it has a spreader bar instead of a buckle. If you can, try some different harnesses on first before deciding. They'll all feel different, kind of like buying shoes.
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Bill Townsend
G-Cat 5.0
Sarasota
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Posted: Sep 29, 2020 - 12:57 PM
pros and cons to every make and model
adjustable are great for several reasons: besides to dial in for racing, also good to change up your position which is nice if you are in the harness for extended time. Also if u sail in waves - they allow you to pull yourself up vs taking a wave to the legs/torso/etc (time and conditions permitting) - cons: more parts to maintain and that can fail and a bit of mass (block/cleat) moving around higher (your face) at all times and IF you get smacked by your crew unhooking .... a bit of mass.
can't miss rings have a few pros - they are hard to miss (hooking) and are usually poly coated (a little padding for WHEN you get hit in the face/tooth) - Cons: it is a big round loop swinging around that can snag when stepping (stays are free)
Dog bones are similar to the above - they do provide two settings automatically so no adjusters above. the con is this is a metal ring now looking to smack you around
I have a friend who made his own rings out of dynema and a little clear flexable tubing. worked well for a season - but for just a few $ and no risk of taking out his gf's tooth (again) - he liked them -
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Posted: Sep 29, 2020 - 07:01 PM
Yup.
What he said.
My solution to things swinging around in my face is to use those two-sided velcro wire wraps. One end has a hole so you can loop the tail through and keep it on the dog bone/rings. The rest is 4 to 6 inches long and easily wraps around the stay or the trap line itself if you have the bottom of the trap line under tension. Quick release and it stays put on the dog bone.
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Sheet In!
Bob
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Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
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Arizona, USA
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Posted: Sep 29, 2020 - 08:43 PM
Wearing glasses and having a steel dog bone flailing around is not a got combination. I found these small shock cord hooks at a hardware store. I believe they were called "zip hooks." They have a built in jam cleat that will work with either 1/4 or 3/16ths shock cord. The shock cord that runs under the tramp or through the cross tube or what have you terminates at this hook. The hook is upside down and is hooked to the piece of line that goes through the small block and then tied to the dog bone. When not in use, the dog bone can be pulled down and and attached to the hook. That plus tightening the shock cord with the jam cleat that is part of the hook will keep those dog bones from flailing around when you're not on the wire. I know some of you will thing it's crazy to have an open hook but remember they are upside down and in all the years I've been doing this I've never had them snag onto anything.
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Bill Townsend
G-Cat 5.0
Sarasota
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Posted: Sep 30, 2020 - 08:30 AM
the biggest risk to teeth and eyes is when crew or skipper come off the wire and unhooks without holding on to the system. when released it rubberbands back into the other persons face -
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Posted: Sep 30, 2020 - 12:39 PM
Screaming is bad communication, especially when there are just two of you, and you are sitting shoulder to shoulder.
And yet I yelled at the crew who did this to me and broke the skin just above my eye with the dogbone. It was a lazy and thoughtless move, and partially my fault for not stressing being careful with it.
Since then controlling (all the) lines is a conversation had before every sail with someone new.
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Sheet In!
Bob
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Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
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Posted: Sep 30, 2020 - 02:00 PM
starting to find out that communication is key, in most situations :)
i used to yell at my crew when they screwed up, or i screwed up, or i didn't know what i was doing, or i was being an idiot. then i ran out of people who would sail with me for some reason :)
i have learned over the years that yelling usually makes things worse, yet i still do it from time to time.
usually at power boaters for their wake or cutting me off, or when i have a land lubber date aboard and they drop their nail polish down my boardwell or something completely unexpected. then she crys, I end up apologizing repeatedly the rest of the sail, evening, relationship. -
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Posted: Sep 30, 2020 - 02:08 PM
I have adjustables and use the extra line (bitter end) of the adjustment line to tie the trap wire to the stay. this works about 50% of the time (usually comes undone over time) and is a large distraction while sailing to fuss with - it's always been annoying as hell to me - the traps are always in my way - maybe i should try this if/when i put traps wires back on my boat (currently have wings on it - no real need for trap wires but i may make a set of trap wires out of dynema just for some fun trapping off the wing) someday
starting to find out that communication is key, in most situations :)
i used to yell at my crew when they screwed up, or i screwed up, or i didn't know what i was doing, or i was being an idiot. then i ran out of people who would sail with me for some reason :) -
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Posted: Oct 06, 2020 - 09:58 PM
Ronstan makes some parts:
https://www.ronstan.us/marine5/product.asp?ProdNo=RF5121
https://www.ronstan.us/marine5/range.asp?RnID=088
a slightly greater range of high performance trapeze parts:
https://www.sailcenter.com/en/parts/hardware/trapeze/
foot straps:
https://www.sailingchandlery.com/collections/toe-straps-and-fixings
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Cameron
Tornado (Marstrom) USA 851
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Posted: Oct 07, 2020 - 02:38 PM
Hmmmm, if she can color coordinate the nail polish with your gelcoat, she might accidentally touch up a ding or two, earning your praise, and you are win-win! #tryingtohelp
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Sheet In!
Bob
_/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
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Posted: Oct 07, 2020 - 07:57 PM
So, the overall preferred in likely simple, light weight and not really adjustable on the fly for safety sake and you just don't need to that much, right? I have old J handles and dog bonds and fiddle blocks, should I wish to use whatever. Even have about 1\2 can't miss set up, but that looks problematic. All well used.
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Chuck C
NACRA 500 Mk2
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Posted: Oct 08, 2020 - 05:28 AM
Keep in mind that with an adjustable system, you’d probably have to shorten your trap wires so that there’s room for the adjustment blocks above your trap ring. Stock Hobie trap wire lengths are generally sized for a non-adjustable system. Also, trapping off of the wings makes adjusting the trap height on-the-fly less necessary. Since the wings naturally place you a foot or two above the water, there is less likelyhood of getting slapped by waves, even when trapping low.
I would start with the basic dogbone adjustment system and J&H handles for simplicity and ease of hooking up. Then modify from there if you find it necessary.
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Posted: Oct 08, 2020 - 08:22 AM
sm - Thanks! - solid advice. Done deal, makes sense.
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Chuck C
NACRA 500 Mk2
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