• waiex191
  
  

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  Posted: Nov 17, 2020 - 03:32 PM

  Thought I would start a thread to see if anybody is printing parts for their boat. I printed some jib clips for a buddy of mine who has a Capri 14.2. His old ones were worn out, so they would fall off the forestay as he was trying to snap them on. The clip screws onto the jib and clamps the bolt rope. To get it on the forestay you twist the clip 90 degrees, pop it on the stay, then rotate it back.
  
  
  
  
  My $100 Snark came with a door hinge for the plywood rudder. I am not going to buy $300 worth of parts to put it back, so I printed this gudgeon for about $8 worth of filament. I'll be making a new rudder, rudder bracket, and tiller as well.
  
  
  My buddy with the Supercat 17 says he had been having a hard time finding batten holders, and thought that was a good candidate for printed parts.
  
  I designed all this stuff in Freecad and printed it on a Flashforge Finder printer.
  
  
  
  Edited by waiex191 on Nov 17, 2020 - 03:36 PM.
  
  --
  Bryan in Poplar Grove, IL
  Supercat 17, unknown year. Future project
  Hobie 16, 1977 - died a spectacular death https://youtu.be/Y7O22bp2MVA
  Hobie 16, 1978 - current boat
  --

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• ziper1221
  
  

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  Posted: Nov 17, 2020 - 10:41 PM

  what material?

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• waiex191
  
  

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  Posted: Nov 18, 2020 - 09:17 AM

  It's PLA. For the machine we have, that's the only option.
  
  --
  Bryan in Poplar Grove, IL
  Supercat 17, unknown year. Future project
  Hobie 16, 1977 - died a spectacular death https://youtu.be/Y7O22bp2MVA
  Hobie 16, 1978 - current boat
  --

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• samc99us
  
  

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  Posted: Nov 20, 2020 - 11:32 AM

  PLA is very unlikely the only option for that machine. You should be able to print in ABS, in which ASA is an option, and the best choice for boat parts or anything that lives outside as it is UV stabilized.

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• DamonLinkous
  
  

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  Posted: Nov 20, 2020 - 12:16 PM

  waiex191

  Thought I would start a thread to see if anybody is printing parts for their boat...

  
  
  That's very cool Bryan! Can't wait to see what else you come up with.
  
  Anyone else doing boat parts this way?
  
  --
  Damon Linkous
  1992 Hobie 18
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• waiex191
  
  

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  Posted: Nov 20, 2020 - 05:55 PM

  samc99us

  PLA is very unlikely the only option for that machine. You should be able to print in ABS, in which ASA is an option, and the best choice for boat parts or anything that lives outside as it is UV stabilized.

  
  Both of my kids have a Flashforge Finder. It doesn't have a heated bed. My neighbor has an Ender which has a heated bed and prints ABS. I'm still new to this. At work we either have people who run the machines or for metal 3D printing we go out to vendors.
  
  Good to know about UV. My boats live inside when I'm not using them.
  
  --
  Bryan in Poplar Grove, IL
  Supercat 17, unknown year. Future project
  Hobie 16, 1977 - died a spectacular death https://youtu.be/Y7O22bp2MVA
  Hobie 16, 1978 - current boat
  --

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• waiex191
  
  

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  Posted: Jan 09, 2021 - 09:35 PM

  Here is my first prototype of a batten pocket protector. Still tweaking parameters. They will cost me about 60 cents per pocket vs about $10 that I saw on Murrays.
  
  
  
  Print on the left in blue, original part on the right in white.
  
  
  
  Edited by waiex191 on Jan 09, 2021 - 09:36 PM.
  
  --
  Bryan in Poplar Grove, IL
  Supercat 17, unknown year. Future project
  Hobie 16, 1977 - died a spectacular death https://youtu.be/Y7O22bp2MVA
  Hobie 16, 1978 - current boat
  --

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• MN3
  
  

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  Posted: Jan 09, 2021 - 10:07 PM

  Nice!
  
  and good job on the jib hanks

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• waiex191
  
  

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  Posted: Jan 09, 2021 - 10:24 PM

  MN3

  Nice!
  
  and good job on the jib hanks

  
  Thanks! And now I know the proper name for jib hanks.
  
  --
  Bryan in Poplar Grove, IL
  Supercat 17, unknown year. Future project
  Hobie 16, 1977 - died a spectacular death https://youtu.be/Y7O22bp2MVA
  Hobie 16, 1978 - current boat
  --

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• ctcataman
  
  

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  Posted: Jan 10, 2021 - 05:20 AM

  I print lots of parts for work, surgical instruments prototypes. More importantly I break lots of them. Be sure the slicer makes them solid. PLA isnt very strong. Its strength is about 16% of the most common aluminum. Use in steering parts should be avoided.
  
  Parts break between the layers, which are weld lines.
  
  The PLA parts feel good when new, and for a few cycles match the load capacity of conventional materials. Then they fall apart.
  
  There are filled materials that are much stronger, some carbon filled. They didnt print well on our machines so I cant talk to their capacity.
  
  I would recommend use in non critical parts only.
  
  --
  John
  
  Nacra 5.0
  CT
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• ctcataman
  
  

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  Posted: Jan 10, 2021 - 05:20 AM

  BTW I made a wind vane of PLA.
  
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  John
  
  Nacra 5.0
  CT
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• samc99us
  
  

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  Posted: Jan 10, 2021 - 09:09 AM

  My suggestion is to get some heated beds on those machines and at least switch to PETG, that has been my go-to material. Will post pictures later, I mostly print trailer parts but have been printing some lower load parts or those that don't see much tension (spinnaker pole end caps for example). It is on par with ABS in terms of strength, less warping, and much easier bed adherence. I am using Cura 4.8 for slicing with 120% flow on the first layer, either glue stick or hair spray on a glass bed.
  
  For structural parts, I print a lot in carbon filled PETG from Atomic Filaments, its $50/kg. The other parts to look into are PC and Nylon, there are some nice prints on Prusa Mk. 3's with eSun PA-CF, also about $50/kg, but this is an advanced filament that requires drying. PETG also benefits from drying, I bought a food dehydrator to get me started.
  
  Oh, you may need an all metal hotend for the carbon loaded PETG. Standard PETG with a 0.4mm nozzle can be printed at 230-240 deg C, so stock hotends work.
  
  Finally, for those batten end caps, I would double the thickness and maybe increase the pocket depth slightly vs. a factory injection molded Nylon. That will get you back on-par strength wise, at a slight weight penalty.
  
  John, PM sent on another topic.

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• samc99us
  
  

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  Posted: Jan 10, 2021 - 09:24 AM

  Double post, deleted.
  
  
  
  Edited by samc99us on Jan 10, 2021 - 09:25 AM.

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• waiex191
  
  

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  Posted: Jan 10, 2021 - 02:23 PM

  Excellent discussion, thanks all. We do have one heated bed machine in the family, an Ender 3. My kid has it back at his college apartment. We will look into the different filaments. $50/KG doesn't seem too bad.
  
  Mainly right now I'm working on the geometry of the design. The latest is set up for #6 screws and nuts.
  
  
  At work we have resin printers. We have actually used those parts to make couplings to drive rotating equipment under test. Not as durable as the steel parts but cheap, fast, and easy enough to replace for an endurance test. We have also been going to vendors to have parts printed in aluminum and inconel. Cool stuff, but a bit out of my price range.
  
  

  Quote

  BTW I made a wind vane of PLA.

  
  
  John, I had also considered this as a good project. Did you publish on thingiverse or anywhere?
  
  Thanks,
  
  --
  Bryan in Poplar Grove, IL
  Supercat 17, unknown year. Future project
  Hobie 16, 1977 - died a spectacular death https://youtu.be/Y7O22bp2MVA
  Hobie 16, 1978 - current boat
  --

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• bacho
  
  

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  Posted: Jan 13, 2021 - 07:26 AM

  Im printing parts in PETG and Carbon PETG for my boats. Still learning like everyone else. Here are some quick releases to replace corroded aluminum junk.
  
  
  
  
  
  Edited by bacho on Jan 13, 2021 - 07:29 AM.
  
  --
  Greenville SC
  
  Offering sails and other go fast parts for A-class catamarans
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• james89
  
  

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  Posted: Jan 13, 2021 - 08:09 AM

  That's very nice. What made you get into 3D printing? Once in a while I see threads and news about 3D printed tech and parts, but I don't really know much about it. Any suggestions how to get started or what is worth reading about it?
  
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• samc99us
  
  

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  Posted: Jan 14, 2021 - 09:30 AM

  bacho

  Im printing parts in PETG and Carbon PETG for my boats. Still learning like everyone else. Here are some quick releases to replace corroded aluminum junk.
  
  Edited by bacho on Jan 13, 2021 - 07:29 AM.

  
  
  Bacho, any chance of sharing those parts? Did you find a source for the inserts?

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• bacho
  
  

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  Posted: Jan 20, 2021 - 07:42 AM

  I had to make it all. 1/4 stud in a 3/8 cylinder. All 316ss.
  
  Drilling and tapping the 3/8 rod would be a real challenge by hand IMO.
  
  --
  Greenville SC
  
  Offering sails and other go fast parts for A-class catamarans
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• waiex191
  
  

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  Posted: Jun 24, 2021 - 02:38 PM

  We found some Hobie mainsail batten tensioner ends on thingiverse and printed up a bunch. We also designed the luff end caps for the main, plus tensioners and luff end caps for the jib battens.
  
  
  Here are the caps we found on thingiverse:
  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3162935
  
  When my kid posts the other solid models I'll put the links up. Also, we found this tool for unlocking the cams:
  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4606236
  
  We have printed that tool and I'll try it out tonight.
  
  --
  Bryan in Poplar Grove, IL
  Supercat 17, unknown year. Future project
  Hobie 16, 1977 - died a spectacular death https://youtu.be/Y7O22bp2MVA
  Hobie 16, 1978 - current boat
  --

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• MN3
  
  

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  Posted: Jun 24, 2021 - 04:38 PM

  Quote

  Also, we found this tool for unlocking the cams:

  
  not sure how that works - may be perfect
  
  i used this one a few decades ago - it was perfect - still under $10
  
  
  https://westcoastsailing.…t_usm87WWkgaAvm_EALw_wcB

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