The jib blocks on my boat anchor mid tramp. They are always in the way. Another sailor suggested the ratcheting blocks go up on the front crossbeam and the sheet goes back to a small block at the original anchor point. A bit more friction and more set up. Anyone try this? NacDaddy?
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John
Nacra 5.0
CT
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Moving jib blocks
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Moving the jib blocks to the main cross beam will certainly free up space but you'll have to have the foot of the jib recut because the sheeting angle will be quite different. You will loose a small amount of square footage with your jib. (Look at a picture of a Nacra 500/570.) You might consider having the jib blocks on a track if you do this. I don't understand the need for having the jib sheet going to a second block back to the original anchor point.
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Bill Townsend
G-Cat 5.0
Sarasota
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Me neither, I think it might be even worse because the crew might step or sit on that section of jib sheet between the two blocks, making things complicated. The existing blocks should work fine in the front beam, probably adjusting the cleating angle. -
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Think he’s wanting to get the bulkier ratchet blocks off the trampoline, but keep a smaller block on the original tracks to maintain the designed sheeting angle..
May be reduced clutter. May be just trading the type clutter.
I’d think you could mock it up on land with some spare small blocks, and see if you like it better.
I’m curious...
N5.7 here. -
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i am sure you are aware there will be a performance hit with this move
Not sure which boat you are doing this on but you will lose the ability to move the blocks forward or aft for better shape and as mentioned you will have to reduce jib size.
so this is a trade off - more room for your crew, less performance plus a few extra holes in your beam for hardware -
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You could also move them to the inboard part of the hull (like a lot of cats) and this will free up some space on the tramp. A short piece of traveler track will give you fore and aft adjustment. The down side is that the slot will be a little more open as what you might want it for sailing close hauled but everything's a trade off. Just bear off a couple of degrees, let your main traveler out a little and haul ass!
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Bill Townsend
G-Cat 5.0
Sarasota
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Jib sheet anchor point will remain the same. 5.0 dont have a track as the Marstrom has. The blocks with cleats move to beam, a new single block attaches to eye mid way down tramp.
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John
Nacra 5.0
CT
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I think I understand the geometry you're suggesting. No, I've never tried anything like it and yes the jib sheet blocks on the Nacra 5.0 are a nuisance, hard to cleat/uncleat (particularly if you're using the OEM 2-1/4" Harken variant) and right where you or crew want to sit for balance !@#$%^ This is the price we pay for having and overlapping jib and even overlapping the jib on the 5.0 is undersized IMO. Note: the Hobie 16 maintains a nice clean tramp with a fake overlapping jib (tons of roach and jib battens which are also a PITA) by bringing the jib clew plate to just in front of the front cross bar and using an adjustable clew plate. I had Whirlwind build a jib for my 5.0 with a 5 hole adjustable clew plate and poof, no need for a track (thanks to Chip Buck it works fabulously).
If you move the lead block to the front cross bar the lead angle will be changed such that you will tremendously increase jib leech tension while tremendously reducing jib foot tension, not good. Let's see your mock up and go from there.
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Hobie 16 (3 formerly)
MacGregor 25 (formerly)
Chrysler Dagger 14 (formerly)
NACRA 5.0 (currently)
High Point, NC
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Hey John,
I have a pair of jib tracks that mount to the hulls if you are interested.
17 years ago I provided a very helpful hack for jib sheet blocks on cats with overlapping jibs. If you haven't done this you are missing the party. It's in my album here:
https://www.thebeachcats.…de2abfa44a9486be6745d28e
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Philip
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One thing I forgot to consider when I mentioned the idea of moving the jib blocks to the hull is the Tornado has a 10 ft beam and the blocks probably would be too far out for close hauled sailing. As far as putting them them on the main cross tube goes, it looks like the bridle is pretty far aft so that makes the tack of the jib pretty far back as well. I think you would have to alter the jib too much to make this practical. One reason it works on Hobie 16's is the bridle is way forward on the tips of the hulls and the tramp is raised.
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Bill Townsend
G-Cat 5.0
Sarasota
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