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nacra 5.7 mast attachments stays, trapeze  Bottom

  • Hello
    This picture shows how stays and trapeze are attachment to the (5.7 or 5.8 not sure the difference) mast.
    https://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=135453
    Are there any advantages to attaching the trapeze wires in the higher hole?

    Also can the lower attachment point be used for the forestay. It is really hard to pin the forestay to the bridle when raising the mast? When I have it shackled to the lower it is easier to pin to the bridals.
  • Standing rigging- (2 shrouds, 1 forestay), go in the lower hole.
    Both trap wires go in the top hole, via a bow shackle.
    The photo shows the forestay in the lower hole, where it is supposed to be, not sure what your asking.

    --
    Hobie 18 Magnum
    Dart 15
    Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
    Nacra 5.7
    Nacra 5.0
    Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
    Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
    --
  • You see the little bracket attached to the mast by the swivel a few cm lower on the mast?

    What is the purpose of it? Can the forestay be connected to that?
  • rungiYou see the little bracket attached to the mast by the swivel a few cm lower on the mast?

    What is the purpose of it? Can the forestay be connected to that?

    That eyestrap is not factory. Do not mount the forestay to it.

    --
    Philip
    --
  • Are you saying that it's hard to get the proper rig tension when you attach the forestay to the apex of the bridal? I'm not sure how this would work with a furler, but what I've always done is put a shackle on the end of the headstay and a shackle at the apex of the bridle if it doesn't already have a ring. Tie a piece of 3/16ths to the shackle at the end of the headstay and loop it through the ring at the apex of the bridle, back around a few times to get purchase and you will be able to tension the rig exactly as you like it without help. You may have to shorten the headstay a few inches to make room.

    --
    Bill Townsend
    G-Cat 5.0
    Sarasota
    --
  • Rungi,

    You should have a 10 hole shroud adjuster on each shroud. One side should be loose when stepping the mast. Once the mast is stepped, and the forestay is attached to the bridle, then you tension the rig at the shroud adjusters.

    If your shroud adjusters are pinned out on a longer setting, and your forestay is still too short to attach to the bridle, your rigging is not right.

    As EdChris said, lower hole on the mast hound is for the shrouds and forestay, upper hole for the trap wires.

    I can tell you that this boat probably has a lot of custom modification done to it, or has been pieced together. The forestay swivel is not factory. Not a bad thing, but you should have a furler on the other end. Hence, the forestay is a custom length. You have indicated confusion on the mast as either a 5.8 or a 5.7?? These are completely different rigs requiring different bridals, shrouds, and forestay between a 5.7 and a 5.8. Same goes for the sails and the jib.

    Rudder hitting the transom: This is something else that just doesn't happen. Try mounting the rudder blades on opposite sides and see if it still hits.

    DO NOT ATTACH THE FORESTAY TO THE EYESTRAP.

    --
    Philip
    --
  • rungiYou see the little bracket attached to the mast by the swivel a few cm lower on the mast?

    What is the purpose of it? Can the forestay be connected to that?

    Jesus Christ...NO!
    Look at it, it’s tiny & will pull out in 5mph wind.
    Rig it the way I stated a couple posts above.
    That little bracket is factory on the 5.7 & 5.0 mast. It’s purpose is to hang a small wire block, used to raise the jib. The factory wire halyard goes up to the block, which would have been hung from that eye , (before furling was added), then down the mast & cleated off on the bottom of the mast. You will not use this eye with roller furling.
    Look at the 2nd photo in the furling album,
    https://www.thebeachcats.…pictures?g2_itemId=88268
    The upper swivel you have is OK, that is a Hobie part, used on the H18, & is strong enough. The bottom drum you have is a Harken small boat furler.
    It should have the Torlon bearings,(brownish green). If they are white delrin, they are not strong enough. Change them out. Here is an album I made years ago describing the process.
    https://www.thebeachcats.…pictures?g2_itemId=72561
    If your forestay is too short, (you will want some rake in your mast), it’s probable your rigging is wrong parts. It could be the bridals are too short. Mine are about 47” long.
    You can run it temporarily by pinning two 10 hole adjusters together.
    As Mummp said above, you need a 10 hole on each shroud. The single hole pins to the chain plate on the hull, the 10 holes used for adjusting rig tension.
    As Bill posted, you can use a Portuguese turnbuckle, MN3 uses this, & used it, they work. Go back to the furling album, & see photo #9ish.
    Do you have the two factory assembly manuals? Go to technical help, scroll down a bunch of pages, or Google Nacra assembly.
    Finally, go back & read my first sentence, & Mummps final BOLD TEXT. Don’t start screwing around with rigging...you will end up in a world of pain, along with $$$.

    --
    Hobie 18 Magnum
    Dart 15
    Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
    Nacra 5.7
    Nacra 5.0
    Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
    Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
    --
  • Any idea the purpose of the eye strap?

    Should only one side stay be loose (pin to the top of chain plate)when stepping the mast.
    I can attached the forestay when the it is attached to the mast shackle but it difficult. I had the side stays pin 6 down from the top. (Maybe that was why???)
    Will try a with a less tense side stays setting. (only one side??)

    It is a pain in the ass to get pin through chain plate and forestay but I can do it.
    Yes the roller furler is a modification I am very happy to have got with the boat. It is awesome and works perfectly. (not a bad thing at all)

    The 5.7 mainsail fit perfectly so the modification of the 5.8 mast must have been done.

    See the washers on the shackle in the picture are those needed?
  • Do you have a local club or anyone experianced that can look all this over and help you?

    --
    1978 H18
    1983 H18 (some of it)
    --
  • Ok thank you.
    I have it set up correctly. The jib rolls up in a second and releases in a second. The rigging in the picture is what I am using minus the trapeze lines which I took off to practice lowering and raising the mast solo. Ill shackle the trapeze wires in the hole above the stays when I finally take it out.

    QuoteDo you have a local club or anyone experienced that can look all this over and help you?


    Experienced?

    yea his name is Edchris177
    His post and images helped me figure out the entire rigging of the nacra 5.7
    The boat is ready to fly once I get the trim screws. I can barely wait.
    I have never sailed a catamaran, but I use to sail windsurfers all the time. I am studying catamaran racing for the 90s. Excellent book on sailing catamarans.

    Thanks again
  • I do have both the manuals.
    Do you think they washers are needed on the shackle as you can see in the photo of my mast rigging?
  • The washers are not needed, I don’t know anyone who uses them. Leave them there for now,they won’t hurt anything.
    The previous owner must have thought they were required to keep the bow shackle centered.

    --
    Hobie 18 Magnum
    Dart 15
    Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
    Nacra 5.7
    Nacra 5.0
    Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
    Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
    --
  • The washers are not needed, I don’t know anyone who uses them. Leave them there for now,they won’t hurt anything.
    The previous owner must have thought they were required to keep the bow shackle centered.

    --
    Hobie 18 Magnum
    Dart 15
    Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
    Nacra 5.7
    Nacra 5.0
    Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
    Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
    --
  • I think the washers are good idea, i’ll copy it. (I though of it before but didn’t have any). My bow shackle is slightly deformed and last time i open it i had a really tough time, all because of its odd position I think.



    Edited by Andinista on Aug 22, 2021 - 09:21 PM.
  • I see why the washers are there. They make keep the shackle tight. I think they are a very good idea. Also keeps the clanking down.
  • After moving the tapeze to the upper hole and viewing the shackles from a birds eye view, I can see the trapeze are positioned better when using the same shackle as the shrouds.

    I know the manual says to use the upper holes, but if you attach them like the picture with washer they are position better and do not contact the horn at all. They are completely free to swing out very well. It looks to be a better set up.
  • When you're trapezing the mast is rotated to windward and the loaded trap wire is clear plus the other end of the wire is out a few feet from the hull which pulls the wire out even further. Don't worry about unloaded wires touching the shrouds or the mast. Whatever works.

    --
    Bill Townsend
    G-Cat 5.0
    Sarasota
    --

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