Has anyone replaced the pivmatic clam cleat on a Nacra? We had a great weekend of sailing here with good winds and some wire time, but my rudders were chronically slipping through the cleat giving a heavy windward helm. The Pivmatic cleats are still sold by Murrays for $60 each. A bit steep, but are upgraded to aluminum. Just wondering if any others here have had to deal with this problem. https://www.murrays.com/product/56-0266-1/
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Tom
NACRA 5.7 (1984 Sail 181)
Pennsylvania
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Pivmatic Cleat Replacement
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Posted: Sep 07, 2021 - 09:26 AM
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Posted: Sep 07, 2021 - 10:02 AM
I have an early 80s 5.0 and had to replace both. The fiberglass "clamps" on mine were cracked and failing so I really didn't have a choice. I looked at the original pivmatics that you linked and the newer/cheaper style replacement that are half the price - https://www.murrays.com/product/27-0257/. I went with the original. It did hurt to spend that $120+ but they work perfectly and I'm glad i did. -
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Posted: Sep 07, 2021 - 10:04 AM
Hi Tom,
Likely, your older plastic clamcleat is worn or the pull down sheet is worn, soft or cheap.
You should upgrade to the aluminum clam cleat, as well as a high quality pull down sheet. I address this in an older post regarding tuning up the legacy rudder system.
You can buy just the aluminum clamcleat with the line keeper and rivet it to your old pivmatic. Google "clamcleat racing"
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Philip
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Posted: Sep 07, 2021 - 10:17 AM
I honestly don't know why clamcleats are even made in plastic, the way they burn out. They're just stupid. I got into a fight with a guy on the Aquarius forum a while ago who was arguing for them based on the weight difference, and I pointed out that if the grams he saved over aluminum meant so much to him, all he had to do was take a leak before going out.
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Posted: Sep 07, 2021 - 06:44 PM
Shawn, I use the aluminum pivmatics like you linked on my Monohull and actually would only need one as I have one in the "parts bin". I guess this could be riveted to the aluminum tiller tube and would work as well, or better than the ones with the fiberglass sleeves. That is a much better price.
PM, I'll have to search for your thread. My rudder downhaul is still pretty fresh and was replaced along with the bungees. The set is in its second season.
Jonathan, I agree, plastics and composites don't make sense for critical hardware. They are made in plastic for the same reason anyone that 3D-prints parts uses a plastic composite; it's easy and cheap.
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Tom
NACRA 5.7 (1984 Sail 181)
Pennsylvania
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Posted: Sep 08, 2021 - 08:36 AM
Long ago I repaired one of mine cutting and riveting a chainplate (that I had, I wouldn't have bought one for that). One corner of the tube with the hole for the pin broke. Maybe I didn't even rivet it but tied it with a fishing line, I don't remember. I'll take a picture this weekend. This repair might work for stiffening the tube part. I intended to make a temporary repair but there it is after who knows how many years. It releases when it has to, no problem.
If the line is slipping on the cleat, maybe a higher diameter line will work.
Edited by Andinista on Sep 08, 2021 - 08:37 AM. -
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Posted: Sep 08, 2021 - 08:38 AM
I also replaced the plastic cleats for aluminum ones, as suggested above. That's easy. -
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Posted: Sep 08, 2021 - 12:34 PM
Also check the size line you are using. On the beach pull the line as if the rudder was kicking up and see how much it moves. If the right size it should barely move. -
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Posted: Sep 08, 2021 - 03:15 PM
I think the line size is the largest that won't foul in the rudder casting and is in like-new condition. The teeth in the cleat have just become dull.
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Tom
NACRA 5.7 (1984 Sail 181)
Pennsylvania
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Posted: Sep 08, 2021 - 10:17 PM
Tom, I put up a thread somewhere here about that exact issue, & how I rebuilt it using IIRC a micro clamcleat.
I’ll see if I can find it in the next few days.
I see in your photo, you have the rudder cleated “up”, the down line appears to be sitting high on the c,eat. Remember, it has to sink down somewhat in order for the teeth to bite & hold. On our 5.0 one rudder has too thin a line. It sinks right to the bottom of the cleat, we were out in a big blow yesterday,(3-4’ waves/swells), & it wouldn’t go,d. Ended up tying it down so we could keep sailing in what turned out to be a washing machine experience, & the 2nd time we’ve pitchpoled that Cat!
Another option, I have a single brand new, in the bag, never been installed, the last ones Murray’s had that I picked up on a road trip through Carpeneria.
I can sell it for what I paid, which I think was only $30.
Edited by Edchris177 on Sep 08, 2021 - 10:23 PM.
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Posted: Sep 09, 2021 - 07:28 AM
That line looks way to big to me. The line should seat way down in the cleat to work the best. I have owned Nacra 5.2, 5.8 and 6.0 over the past 25 years, all with pivamatics and with the proper size line they worked perfect. Just another point of information, when you make the pull down line a 2to1 or 3to1, yes it does make the line easier to pull down. The other side of the equation is that it will now be either 2 or 3 times harder to kick up, if you use this method I would recommend that you release the rudder prior to hitting the beach. -
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Posted: Sep 09, 2021 - 09:19 AM
I agree, and will try a 3/16 line for the downhaul. Lots cheaper than replacing the cleats. I always release the rudders before beaching. We have a rocky, gravel bottom on the beach, so I usually come in parallel to shore moving up wind to stall, then put the boat on beach wheels.
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Tom
NACRA 5.7 (1984 Sail 181)
Pennsylvania
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