Dear Cat Sailors,
I recently came into ownership of a Nacra 5.2. She’s an absolute beauty and I am in love. However, there is an issue. The issue is a hole in the top of starboard hull. I have zero experience in boat repair and in reading of the forums I came to the conclusion that I need to access the damaged area form the inside the hull to sand everything down to “knife edge” thickness and then layer new fiberglass on top of that. This presents a set of issues.
Issue one is that I am unable to access the inside of the hull without cutting a huge hole on the side of the boat or popping off the grip panel on the top (which I don’t know if that’s possible or advisable). The access hatch is also just behind the front beam, which has a wall underneath it, when looking into the hull. I am beyond mortified of cutting a huge hole into the hull and would like to avoid that if possible.
Issue two is that the damage is on the curved edge at the top of the hull and shaping a curve seems somewhat challenging. Please advise.
Issue three is that I am currently storing the boat in a backyard and there is a timer ticking on how long that could be the case (I’ve got about 7-10 days).
My current plan is as follows: identify the nearest point where the hull is in good condition and drill two small access points on each side of the damaged area. Following this I intend on feeding two lines into each of the access holes and feeding them back out of the damaged section. The lines will then be tied either to a circular or flat section of rigid fiberglass. Next I plan on sliding the fiberglass plank and lines bank inside the hull, while coated with a good bit of quick set epoxy. Having the lines going through the access points will allow me to press the fiberglass plank against the inside of the hull by applying outward pull, and once the quickset epoxy cures this will hopefully provide me with a degree of rigidity that will facilitate further sanding and fiberglass application.
Am I insane? Misinformed? Delusional?
Please advise. Thank you all very much.
The images are below, along with a video.
http:// https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjBzui5
Nacra 5.2 hull repair
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- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: Oct 20, 2023
- Last visit: Sep 07, 2024
- Posts: 2
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- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Aug 01, 2002
- Last visit: Nov 26, 2024
- Posts: 426
Can't get your link to work, but I think you're on the right track. There's no need to drill more holes. See the Blind Hole Repair tutorial beginning on P. 16 of the May-June 2008 Hobie Hotline: http://www.w1dm.com/Projects/HOTLINE/Hotline.html
I've done a few of these nonstructural repairs, and it's really not that difficult, especially if you're not too concerned with how the result looks. I used epoxy also because I had it on hand and was familiar with handling it. Note that epoxy must be top coated for UV protection (I just used paint). A professional would probably recommend polyester products topped off with gelcoat. It's what the boat's made of, and, with care, will provide a nicer looking repair. You won't be able to do a great repair all at once, but with progressively thinner layers you should be able to match the curve of the deck pretty well.
Regarding your sanity and grasp on reality...well...you bought a beachcat, you are in love with it, and fixing this hole is apparently the most important issue in your life right now. Admitting you have a problem is a good first step toward your new normal. Just know that you are not alone. Welcome to the asylum!
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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16
Clinton, Mississippi
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- Rank: Chief
- Registered: Nov 26, 2009
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You are not crazy. I fixed a hole in my Nacra 5.7 about the same way. I elected to grind through from the outside, then use line to pull a patch tight against the inside.
Enlarging the hole a bit allowed me to be able to wipe down the inside with acetone, in order to ensure good bonding.
Here’s the link to what I did, along with what’s inside your hills
https://www.thebeachcats.…d03b23e508dae72a7ac5a9b6
https://www.thebeachcats.…a64df5942f3441dc8bbc913a
Click on each photo to get the full text.
Also, gravity is your friend. Depending on the location of the patch, it may be beneficial to remove the hull, & position it so any resin lays with the latch, instead of running down the inside of the hull.
The link you provided to your Flickr photos doesn’t work because you computer (iPad?) added a space. See it, right after http://
Go to edit mode & remove the space & it will work. If outside the edit window, repost the link, with that extraneous space deleted.
Edited by Edchris177 on Jul 16, 2024 - 08:31 AM.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: Oct 20, 2023
- Last visit: Sep 07, 2024
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Folks, just wanted to come back and say that the Hobie magazine recommendation worked beautifully! I ended up layering cling wrap onto the hull to mold the fiberglass to its exact shape. After that I cut a slit in the hull with a dremel, slid the cured piece of fiberglass in, held onto the lines, injected epoxy and in the heat of Florida summer the whole thing was rock solid in a matter of minutes. Then came the sanding, removing more old damaged material, layering new glass on top and I finished everything off with white steel putty.
Does it look sexy? No. But that part of the hull feels rock solid now!
Thank you all very much!
Edited by drrod on Sep 07, 2024 - 12:26 AM. -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Aug 01, 2002
- Last visit: Nov 26, 2024
- Posts: 426
Excellent...thanks for letting us know!
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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16
Clinton, Mississippi
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