I am having trouble realigning the bolts to the threads in the front crossbeam after removing and cleaning it. I have used silicone spray to try to get the hex bolts to thread smoothly again, but that doesn't seem to work. Has anyone replaced those stupid hex bolts with something else that won't strip out so easily? Or, could it maybe be the threads in the crossbeams need to be replaced? It is very difficult to even make two turns of the bolt tightening it.
Any advice is appreaciated.
yellowhulls
Hobie 18 Crossbeam bolts
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Posted: Sep 12, 2008 - 01:42 PM
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Posted: Sep 12, 2008 - 02:25 PM
Are you talking about the inboard bolts or the one on the outside. Most hardware stores or automotive stores will sell what is called a thread chaser or cleaner. They have one for bolts and one for nuts, it should help solve your problem. -
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Posted: Sep 12, 2008 - 02:59 PM
It is the inboard bolts that are the problem, thanks for the advice.
yellowhulls
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Posted: Oct 15, 2008 - 08:18 AM
I have just bought a Hobie 18, i think it was born somewhere in the 80's Can anyone tell me if the Hobie 18, has enough boyancy in the mast to stop the mast from sinking when i flip it,, Thanks Dave
edited by: pepsi, Oct 15, 2008 - 10:34 PM -
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Posted: Oct 15, 2008 - 08:41 AM
I have just bought a Hobie 18, i think it was born somewhere in the 80's Can anyone tell me if the Hobie 18, has enough boyancy in the mast to stop the mast from sinking when i flip it,, Thanks Dave
edited by: pepsi, Oct 15, 2008 - 07:42 AM -
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Posted: Oct 15, 2008 - 09:16 PM
I have had my 1984 H18 on its side 4 times. Once I was solo in 18-20 kts and 3-5 footers. I got on the hull right away. The sail tends to drag it down, but hanging onto the righting line and standing on the dagger will keep it from turtling. Some nice fishermen came by and lifted the end of the mast, and it landed nice and square. No problem. You can remove the masthead and look for a foam plug that suppose to increase buoyancy. I thought I saw kits to replace it. Sealing up all openings, no matter how small, should be done every year, an dreally helps, too. -
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Posted: Oct 15, 2008 - 10:06 PM
Thanks Dannyski for your reply on the H18, The head of the mast does have a foam bung, i am more worried about when the FISHER_MAN is not there to Help me lift the mast,, i was thinking of putting a mast float on,Do you know of any problems with doing this. Hobie sell's a mast float that displaces 60 pounds of water, Called A ''Hobie Bob'' would this do the job or cause more problems, I am also struggling with the idea that the foam in the top of the mast gives the mast more buoyancy -if the mast was sealed tight and water could not enter,how can it give more buoyancy, ,, a sealed drum will float better than one that is filled with foam, as it does not have the extra weight of the foam, i think that the foam in the mast was only put there as a precaution for Mast's that took water later on in life. i would like to here your thoughts on this and the mast float,Regardless of this , i am glad i bought the H18, she's a goog looking boat, Cannot Wait To Get her out on the Water, The winds howling at the Moment,, pepsi.
edited by: pepsi, Oct 15, 2008 - 10:25 PM -
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Posted: Oct 22, 2008 - 09:21 PM
You are right... a sealed mast vs a foam-filled one should perform about the same (wt of foam might take it down some). I always check sealing of openings before stepping the mast for the season. So far, so good (4 flips and no turtles). I am sure others have far more experience than me. When I see and feel a gust coming, I hike out, then sheet out and/or pinch up, before the hull lifts too high... usually. Hobie Bobs work. A little nerdy, but effective. I have been thinking about a righting pole to carry beneath the tramp. I think I saw pics in the Tech section. I would like to hear from those who have used one. -
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Posted: Oct 22, 2008 - 10:49 PM
Thanks for your reply, i have made a righting Pole out of my mum"s pool poll
witch is extendable so that i can walk even futher out,''Every Foot Helps'' with the pole being supported in the middle by 2 ropes, This stops the pole wanting to bend, use 360 deg shackle. and 1 shackle near to each of both ends of the pole, so you can clip on your other rope wich conects to front & rear bars, You should have to of these depending on wich side you flip your
boat you can connect to. i have not tryed this out yet, but the math tells me that it should work a treat, i am going to roll my 18 next to a nice beach and adjust the ropes for this and bingo its all ready. i will cary it on the dophin stiker & rear bar, so its out of the way yet ready to use CHEERS PEPSI
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Posted: Oct 22, 2008 - 11:04 PM
Pls take pics and let us all know the optimal set up... tnx. -
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Posted: Oct 25, 2008 - 08:42 AM
Be careful of light weight polls. I attached a one inch diameter sch 40 stainless steel pipe to the underside of my G-cat. Eight feet long... and it bent in two like a hair pen when I put the stress of leverage on it. I now have a sch 80 one inch carbon steel pipe attached... and it has worked well.
Additionally, I welded an eye bolt casting to the pipe to attach it to the middle cross beam... it was part of a turn buckle... It broke.
There is more stress on righting arms that one thinks. At least on a 400 lb 5.7.
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Posted: Oct 26, 2008 - 09:45 AM
That interesting way of doing a righting pole, i can visualize what you have done and it sounds great, i think my way may be to much , and i think i will try your way. Cheers PEPSI
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Posted: Oct 29, 2008 - 02:01 AM
Still need detailed pictures of MAGNUM WINGS, where they bolt on ex, Keeping in mind that from some well taken pictures i should be able to make a set. PLEASE , ANY PICS WOULD BE APPRECIATED. CHEERS PEPSI
