I will be lookin at a H16 tomorrow after work the guy wants 350 for boat, trailer and beach wheels. Sails are said to be in good condition, the only thing is that the baot was left outside for the last 6-8 years. The guy said that the trams needs replace and some lines if the hulls are in good shape i think im gonna buy it.
Anything to look for while im there.
Lookin at a H16 tomorrow
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Posted: Feb 05, 2009 - 10:11 PM
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Posted: Feb 06, 2009 - 08:29 AM
There are several points to check and I may miss a few but I'll offer some tips. The hulls are the first and most obvious items to check.
1. As if the boat was used in salt or freshwater or both. Salt water use is almost always visually noticeable. If the boat was well cared for this is not a major concern it just means more weathering.
2. Look for soft spots on the deck just forward of the front corner castings. NOTE - Hobie 16?s with colored hulls from the year of 1970-88 seems to have more issues with soft spots. The manufacture date can be found on the transoms just below the deck edge and above the rudder gudgeons.
3. Slowly run your hand along the bottem edge of each hull physically and visually inspecting them for exposed fiberglass. There will be rough spots and scratches from beaching the cat. As long as the scratches have not exposed the fiberglass you'll be ok. If you buy one of these do your best not to strike the beach at top speed. As temping as this may seem it's not good for the hulls.
4. Slide your palms along the sides of each hull to feel for uneveness or buldges in the fiberglass. If you feel one genly press inward with your fingers to see if it feels spungy. NOT GOOD! Delamination can occur if water accumulates in the pontoon without being drained. Always check your boat for water after each use.
5. Look for any stress cracks where the side stay shrouds and bridle wires attach to the hulls. You may see some spider cracks in the gelcoat. If the deck is uneven or raised in these areas it could mean fiberglass damage.
6. Check the drain plugs as they will most likely need new gaskets. Make sure they are not glues shut. Dumb idea!
7. Closely inspect where the rudders attach to the stransom. The gudgeons or hinges are bolted on to each pontoon and support the rudder and it's casting. Look for uneveness in the transome and any warping or cracks. There will likely be slop in the rudders if not maintained and you want to make sure that nothing has hit them so hard as to cause hull damage. While your there check the rudders for delamination. They should be firm and solid.
8. Inspect the corner castins and tramp mounts. Make sure that the rivets are holding the frame tightly. You can genly lift the frame and take the weight off the trailer and see if it's holding. Make sure the pontoon goes up as you lift. You don't want a loose pontoon.
9. Check the front and aft crossbars for dents. The dolphin striker, the rod that is below the mast step casting on the front cross bar, should be tight and have kind of a ping sound when you tap it with a screw driver. Make sure it as well as the rod that connects to the corner castings is straight an tight. The aft cross bar should be firm and free of dents. Move the traverler back and forth to ensure that the track is free and clear and will allow for movement.
10. Inspect the mast and boom. Make sure they are straight with no twisting or dent repair. The sail track should be smooth and even. Check the masthead and make sure the sheave is in good shape and moves. Inspect all hardware attached to the mast and make sure it's secure. Inspect the mast tang, where the shrouds attach to the mast, and make sure it's secure and not worn out. Check the condition of the mast base and the rivets holding it in place. Make sure the mast base stepping pin hole is not broken. You slide a pin through the mast step casting and mast base to aid in raising the mast.
11. Inspect the sails for tears and abrasion. The main sail batten pockets have a tendency to wear on the shroud wires. Check the condition of the eyelets on the batten pocets for both sails. Check the battens for cracks as well.
12. Ask if the the rigging is the original set. It may need to be replaced. Check the shourds for frays loose thimbles. Make sure the swag crimps are in good condition and not corroded beyond recognition. This goes for the main and jib halyards as well. If there are trapeze wires they should be checked the same.
13. I'm assuming you said the trampoline needs replacing. If not look for tears, repairs or holes. The lace line may be worn and require replacement.
There are several points of inspections and the web has plenty of suggestions to offer. I'm sure someone here will point out something I've missed as well. The age and how the boat was used and stored will determine how in depth your inspection should be. I'm just hoping to offer you a few pointers. Of course make sure the trailer rolls. If it's been outside for a long time it will most likely need hardware replaced and that can add up quickly. Murraysis great as well as Saltydog Marine are great resources for parts. Of course a local Hobie dealer is too.
If you're in the market for a new tramp, I just bought one from SLO Sails and Canvas. Karl was awesome and great to do business with. He'll do just about anything for you. The workmanship is awesome. For $255 you can't beat it.
Got to go. If I can think of anything else I'll add it later.
Martin
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Posted: Feb 06, 2009 - 03:23 PM
Gotta say this and I know I'm extra fussy about my equipment and its condition. Unless the seller has no idea of what a 16 should sell for, $350 for the whole kit sounds like trouble to me. In my opinion better to spend $1500 - $2500 for a boat and trailer in good shape rather than a pc of junk that will require massive amounts of time and expense.
Still check it out as above. -
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Posted: Feb 06, 2009 - 07:02 PM
Well the boat was junk, so i guess i just have to keep on looking. i think i might just save my money for now and buy one that doesn't need any work.
i checked the tops of the hulls when i got there and didnt look any further cause there was a two foot soft spot. thanks for the help though.
edited by: TMCerce, Feb 06, 2009 - 06:02 PM -
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Posted: Feb 08, 2009 - 09:03 AM
I'm not a true believer of you get what you pay for but Larry is right about Hobie 16's. These boats are excellent and community of H16 sailors are really keen on current pricing. If you do find a boat that has a price that seems too good to be true don't get your hopes up too high. I paid $1200 for my '83 this past spring and it was ready to sail. I've put some sweat equity into it and bought a new tramp but that's about it.
B.O.A.T. Break Out Another Thousand
Good luck in your search. Hobie 16s are tough and will last if you care for them. Hope the check list helps.
