This is probably a silly question, but what do you guys usually setup for tongue weight?

I'm making my first long haul (with a hobie 18) from the UP of MI to the east coast of FL. I'm planning to leave in a week, and I have already serviced the tires, wheel bearings, lights, setup some reflectors and put on a set of fenders. My only question remaining is regarding weight distribution.

I'm a bit of a towing noob, but I was thinking that too little tongue weight was supposed to promote trailer sway. So that is to be avoided at all costs, but too much tongue weight is supposed to affect he weight distribution of the tow vehicle and cause the front (steering) wheels to "lift".

I thought I recall people saying around 15% of trailer weight is a good estimate. I just wanted to check with others here on this (incredibly helpful) forum on what you guys usually use.

Maybe its not that important, but it would seem to me that with such a large wind profile and so little total weight that the tongue weight in the driveway might be a bit different than when actually traveling down the road at 60 mph. I think the aerodynamic drag force would make the tongue want to lift, right?

Maybe its not that important, but I was just hoping for a few thoughts / comments / suggestions.

Thanks guys,
Brandon

I trailered a Nacra 5.5 from Michigan to Dallas behind a Ram 1500 pickup. With this configuration, the more tongue weight, the better. The class 4 hitch will actually support more weight than the boat and trailer combined and the payload of the truck far outweighs the weight capacity (1000 lb tongue weight) of the hitch.

Unless you are towing with a Smart car or other golf cart it shouldn't be an issue. Just make sure that there is enough weight forward to avoid trailer sway. The front end of the tow vehicle isn't likely to get light unless you are towing a very big cat (X-40) with a very small car.

I usually put as much tongue weight as I can but still lift the tongue when connecting to my car without being to difficult. So probably around 100 pounds.

I think my H16 had less then that but I ran into the problem with axle location on the trailer. By the time I got the boat far enough forward to have a heavy tongue the hulls were to close to my vehicle.

Unless you have a very small car I don't think you can really get to much tongue weight to impact front tire contact.

--
Scott,
‘92 H18 w/SX wings
‘95 Hobie Funseeker 12 (Holder 12)
‘96/‘01/‘14 Hobie Waves
--

Normal rule of thumb according to most towing guides is 10-15% of the total weight of the trailer including load

[You can have to much tounge weight but not normally with out beach cat and trailer. If you are towing a heavy load and have an excessive amount of tounge weight it will make the car or tow vehicle very "light" in the front which can cause steering problems.quote=smfinley]I usually put as much tongue weight as I can but still lift the tongue when connecting to my car without being to difficult. So probably around 100 pounds.

I think my H16 had less then that but I ran into the problem with axle location on the trailer. By the time I got the boat far enough forward to have a heavy tongue the hulls were to close to my vehicle.

Unless you have a very small car I don't think you can really get to much tongue weight to impact front tire contact.[/quote]

I guess I should have mentioned the issue about a really small car. It's not a "smart car" but rather its a Saturn! I'm just joking, I actually like my Saturn quite a bit, its a machine designed to get 38 mpg and its made from tupperware so it can never rust! But unfortunately its not much of a tow vehicle. The total curb weight is 2300 lbs and it does have a class 1 towing rating.

To give a little perspective, when I installed the receiver, it came with a backing plate and it mounted through 3 layers of sheet metal on the unibody.

So I agree that too much tongue weight usually never hurts when your vehicle is designed for it, but in this case I'm trying not to over estimate.

Wind resistance is a bigger issue than weight when towing a beachcat since the boat is much wider than the car.

With a lightweight tow vehicle that doesn't have "tow package" items like an transmission cooler and larger radiator, keep your max speed down, especially in hilly areas. It would be worth your while to install a real temp gauge before the trip if your car just has a warning light.

As far as the tongue weight, just make sure you can still pick up the tongue with the boat fully road ready.

--
Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN

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I tow my Nacra 5.2 with a 4 cylinder GMC tracker, without a problem. Never had a problem with overheating but I haven't towed through significant hills.

For a significant trip I would go with Damon's advice and get a temp gauge installed if you don't have one (I have one). Overheating your car will ruin your whole day (can you say head gasket replacement). It probably won't be a problem but better spend $50 for the gauge so you know rather than the $2000 bill later.

I push my boat as far forward as possible without interfering with turning, and so I can still lift it onto my tongue. Make sure you have lots of compression straps around the hulls to keep them in place. I use 3-4 on each side with a couple on the cross bars to keep the boat from moving front or back. I definitely prefer the buckle type compression straps used for canoe`s like these ones:

http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442630915&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302700901&bmUID=1260162301306

over the hook and ratchet type. These simply never loosen and cannot come undone. I've had a few bad experiences with the ratchet type straps.

D.



--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
--

I tow my P18 with a 1.8L automatic Pontiac Vibe. Have done several hundred miles at a time at 70+ mph with no problems in August in the south. I have installed an aftermarket transmission cooler to help prevent trans. damage, but in this weather you probably wouldn't see any benefit from it. To increase tongue weight without shoving the boat forward I bolted a large storage box to the trailer in which I carry all my stays, sheets, blocks, hardware, and life jackets. I estimate the tongue weight to be between 100-150 pounds.

just echoing the sentiments stated and adding a few. I've driven about 1200 miles one way when I first bought my N6.0. Simply loaded the weight more forward, and lashed her down well. I do use straps for most travel, but I do insist on using rope for insurance, especially for the mast. Other towing tid bits, that I enjoy that you aren't really asking for is being able to see your side marker lights at night. I slanted the front side markers on a 45deg. to help give me peace of mind when towing at night. Our boats are very light and tow easily, but its the width and length (mast) gets us into the most trouble!

speaking of innovative markers and tail lights, the previous owner of my boat/trailer setup had fabricated an interesting set of trailer lights.

The tail lights are affixed to long piece of square aluminum conduit. The conduit is about 6' long by 3/4" x 3/4" square. The square conduit is then mounted to the rudder pintles. An electrical connector between the trailer and the light bar allows you to remove the lights completely. The idea is then that the lights are more viable as you drive down the road. Then when you get to launching the boat they never get dunked in the salt water.

I haven't done any longevity or durability testing yet, but I think the design at least warrants the title of "innovative"

Quote

I use 3-4 on each side with a couple on the cross bars to keep the boat from moving front or back.

You use 10 straps to secure your cat to your trailer?

You are over thinking this. Move the cat and mast forward and you will be fine.

My friends and I have been dragging cats around for year behind 4 cylinder cars some in pretty nasty shape.

More important to:
1) Make sure your lights work
2) Make sure your tires and bearings are in good shape, and that you have a spare and tools.
3) Make sure you car is in good shape.
4) lock the once the tongue is engaged on the ball, lock in place.
5) Use your safety chains.
6) Get the heck out of dodge before the snow hits!

Quote

I've driven about 1200 miles one way when I first bought my N6.0. Simply loaded the weight more forward, and lashed her down well.

A word of caution, on boats like these, if you don't have cradles on the front supports, you run the risk of crushing the hulls if they are not positioned bulkhead over a roller. The front supports carry most of the weight.

--
Philip
--

Quote

The front supports carry most of the weight.

The front (as in the rollers closest to the tounge or the front of the cat)?

What if the cat is sterns to the tounge? does this change anything?




edited by: andrewscott, Dec 07, 2009 - 02:57 PM

Sure it does. . . the cat, not the trailer, most of the weight is over the front beam (of the boat).

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Philip
--

Yep I use 10 supports for my cat to the trailer and a few more for the mast. Overkill?

--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
--

No matter which way you trailer your cat, it is recommended that the weight factor be shifted toward the trailer tongue. In other words, with cat and trailer detached from tow vehicle, the trailer tongue will drop onto the ground due to the weight factor. If the rear of the trailer wants to drop instead, lifting the trailer tongue into the air, this is a serious issue that needs to be addressed immediately. If rolling the cat forward does not resolve issue, remove cat from trailer and move the crossbars forward if possible. If unable to move crossbars check to see if axle can be moved back, if unable to move axle check to see if sailbox can be moved forward, if no sailbox buy RubberMaid box and attach to trailer tongue for stowing. Use whatever means to make sure weight is forward, not only does weight-forward dampen trailer sway, it's also a safety issue.
Sometimes in all the fuss of getting ready to go sailing, hitching the trailer, attaching the safety chains, checking the lash-down straps, packing sails, checking for PFD's, checking bearing buddies, checking trailer lights, checking all shrouds are good, loading the kids, making sure you have everything packed and loaded, you forget to drop the ball lock lever, also known as the coupler lock. Now imagine headed down the road and with the first bump the trailer tongue lifts into the air........ I shudder at the thought.
So, as mentioned in above posts, weight forward, should be able to lift trailer tongue easily to maneuver trailer onto hitch, if rear shocks bottom out, too much weight, adjust accordingly.

Turbo

Quote

Yep I use 10 supports for my cat to the trailer and a few more for the mast. Overkill?

whatever you feel is correct.. .i dont know your drive, driving, etc... but that takes more time to rig...

i use 1 ratchet (port bow) and 1 line (star bow) and 1 line on the rear beam to the trailer (straight down)

Quote

Sure it does. . . the cat, not the trailer, most of the weight is over the front beam (of the boat).

I have never seen a cat fail on the bows (personally), i have seen pics with it happen in the winter with snow weight ... i think i want double rollers on my trailer as i can't use 4 cradles..

double rollers are good, and in some ways better, eliminating the chance for blistering. I wish I had that picture of the the crushed hull (over single roller) caused by driving over railroad tracks at speed. . . .
it also happens when an over zealous owner over tightens a ratcheting tie down strap.

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Philip
--

I like the dual rollers on the back and cradles on the front of the trailer. I don't have that setup, but my brother does, and it makes getting the boat on and off easy and protects the hulls better then my single roller front and rear. On my H18 I use two straps in the front (one around each hull) and one at the rear going across both hulls and the tramp. Then a rope holding the mast to the front mast cradle and an old cradle sitting on the rear cross bar of the boat holding the back of the mast, with it tied down with a rope.

I personally have not seen someone use more then 4 straps to hold the boat to the trailer, but more can't hurt as long as you don't mind putting them all on and taking them back off.

My personal thought is when you have each corner tied down independent of the other, if one strap fails nothing will happen, if two fail you might have a problem but not likely. If more then that fail it was destiny and you needed a new boat.

I will also check the trailer when I stop for gas.

--
Scott,
‘92 H18 w/SX wings
‘95 Hobie Funseeker 12 (Holder 12)
‘96/‘01/‘14 Hobie Waves
--

Me thinks the quality of our roads up here might leave a bit to be desired compared to yours. :) Truthfully our highways are garbage especialy in Western Canada. We have about 10 times the number of miles per person our here compared to the States and the lack of maintenance shows.

Early this year I saw a trailer at the side of road on the way to the lake. Didn`t think much of it, about 100 m down the road I noticed a boat attached to a truck, no trailer. Apparently the welds attaching the front of the trailer (with the winch attached) broke and the rest fo the trailer just rolled out from underneath into the ditch. I wonder how long it took the guy to realize that he was dragging a boat on the asphault. Would actually pay money to have a picture of his expression.

D.



edited by: Wolfman, Dec 07, 2009 - 05:16 PM

--
Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
--

Quote

Truthfully our highways are garbage especialy in Western Canada.

As a Canadian expat I can agree with that. Even the roads in Ottawa were terrible, but nothing compared to Hwy 3 (Yellowknife Hwy). I drove it in the early 90s and don't understand how they consider a gravel road a highway.

I know Hobie Fleet 2 in California usually has an annual trailer repair get together before the sailing season starts. People from the fleet get together and help each other patch trailers back together. Weld supports where needed, rework trailer lights, etc. Here we all talk a lot about boat maintenance but rarely do we talk about trailers other then bearings and lights. Especially for you salt water guys with steel trailers.

--
Scott,
‘92 H18 w/SX wings
‘95 Hobie Funseeker 12 (Holder 12)
‘96/‘01/‘14 Hobie Waves
--

Reading all this talk about trailers and maintenance made me go out and check on my trailer, am getting ready to haul cat down to Myrtle Beach, SC, some 1100 miles, and have had checking the wheel bearings on my check-list.

So I jack the trailer up on jack-stands, spin the right hand wheel, feels and sounds good, spin the left side wheel......ominous grinding sound, bummers. Take off both wheels, drop the axle, whip off bearingbuddy covers, remove retainer clip, extract spring and plunger cap, knock off bearingbuddy cylinder, remove split-pin, remove spindle nut, take off hub and remove bearings, a 20 min job. Outer bearing gone but I'll replace all 4 bearings and keep the other 3 as spares. I'm off to get some new bearings from O'Reilley's and some grease, will repack new bearings in some new grease, all-in-all a 40 min job that will save me a lot of grief on the roadtrip.

If anyone wants, I can post a step-by-step pic procedure in Tech Help Gallery.

Turbo

Sure turbo, i would love to have a step by step available for when my tires fall off and i need to inspect/replace my old bearings.

Thanks

turbohobo

If anyone wants, I can post a step-by-step pic procedure in Tech Help Gallery.
Turbo

That would be great! We already know what happens when you don't do this job in time.





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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN

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Yep, on that long haul, the trailer was pretty much set up the way I wanted it - cradles up front and dbl rollers in rear. I did re-carpet the cradles and ended up carpeting the dbl. rollers after a bit of thought...dual purpose. A: obvious padding. B: no more black streaks loading / unloading.

Also, I only use 4 straps / rope to secure the cat to the trailer. 1 on the center rear beam, 1 on each bow, and 1 on the spinnaker pole just to keep it from wiggling.

I do like the sound of the lights though! Also, I have used extension cord type wire from Lowes / H.D., as trailer wire because it comes in a heavy duty sheath the resists chaffing and corrosion MUCH better than regular 4 flat trailer wire. It comes in bulk roll that you can buy by the foot.

Wow Damon, was that a salt water boat trailer? OUCH!

turtlecat

Wow Damon, was that a salt water boat trailer? OUCH!

Not really, I am the second owner of that trailer but I don't think Kenny backed it into salt water. Bearings can go any time.

I couldn't have been more lucky when that happened. I returned from a regatta on the Florida Gulf Coast to Memphis (about 500 miles), my sailing club is about 30 miles south of Memphis right on my way home, so about 1:00am I decided to drop the boat off at the club instead of towing it all the way home. Dropped the boat off in the dark and headed home.

The next weekend I was backing the boat down the concrete ramp to launch, when I noticed in my rear view mirror that the boat seemed to be wobbling side to side as it rolled.

The hub/bearings had completely come apart and the rim was riding directly on the spindle about to fall off the end.

I was so close to that wheel flying off at 75 mph in the dark on the Interstate. I wouldn't have even noticed it until the resulting fire got so bright it woke me up.


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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN

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BTROUSE...your questions have mostly been answered, & you have done the important things. I will add a few points.
The weight of these rigs is quite small, even so, just make sure you have some tongue weight. The hitch ball is designed to mostly hold a compression & shearing force, the weakest part of the setup is under negative tongue weight, pulling upwards on the ball.
How ever you tie down, stop & check them after the first 20 miles, then again at ecah gas stop. The boat will "wiggle down" from its initial tie down. The amount may be negligible, or it might be lots, or a strap might fail. When I towed mine home, 1 herc strap was 2" above a safety line. Wind loads lifted the safety line enough to just touch the herc strap & it frayed in 1/2 after only 50 miles. The rule, check often, & feel the wheel hubs for heat as soon as you stop. I used 6 tir downs, 2 on each side, 2 across the top. The sides work like spring lines, one from stern of boat forwards, the other from front bar backwards. This prevents fore/aft movement. Preventing forward movement is critical, that is what the boat wants to do every time you touch the brakes, & you might have to panic brake at some point. Ties holding the boat down should not be cranked down, you will damage the hulls. The spring lines do all the work, the tie downs only hold the boat from bouncing up when you hit bumps.
I would slow down, from 100kph, to 90kph. (61mph to 55mph for our American friends)This will save gas & give you more reaction time. Of course drive more defensively than normal.
I was surprised at the air load. I towed with a V-6 van, & it kicked down a gear at even slight hills, & 2 gears on the tougher pulls. Gas consumption was noticeably increased.
When backing up be aware of those long hulls. If you get the car on enough of an angle you can contact the hulls with the car body. Also be aware of the arc the mast will travel when making a turn. If you make a sharp turn the mast will be 5' to the outside of the car, unlikely at highway speeds, but a consideration while manouvering.
Finally, these boats are wide, you will see the hulls well outside of your car. Keep the car tires on the "grooves" in the road & you're OK. If you were to drift the car to the centre line, or let the trailer move inside,(during a left hand curve) the hulls can easily be in the other lane. Combine that with the other guy drifting a bit towards your lane & it could really wreck your holiday.
A few notes on bearings. Fresh water can be just as damaging. The hub assembly heats up & expands the air inside, causing some of it to leak out. When you immerse the hub in relatively cooler water, the air contracts, creating a slightly lower pressure that results in water being drawn into the hub. This eventually spells disaster to the bearing, hence the failure of bearings with few miles on them.
Google "changing a bearing" just to get a visual on what to do. It is a simple job, but the first time will take much longer, you may need help, or just the right sized drift to push the races out if they are in bad shape.
Finally & MOST IMPORTANTLY, proper packing of the new bearing, or repacking the old after cleaning it thoroughly with solvent. Never spin a dry bearing with compressed air to dry it. It is not enough to just woipe grease every where, the grease must be "packed" into the two halves. To do this wear surgical gloves,(they are dirt cheap & make cleanup a snap) place a good gob of grease in the palm of one hand. Hold the bearing in the other using your fingers, as if you are trying to push the 2 halves apart. Try it, you will see the halves separate slightly. Now snap the bearing down into the EDGE of the gob of grease, this will drive grease up in between the halves, do it a couple of times...you will see grease extrude from the other side of the bearing. This is what is meant by "packing". Rotate the bearing in your hand & do the next spot...continue around the circumference. You will find the job much easier to do than to write how to do. Finally resist the temptation to fill every available space with grease, to much is not better. The engineers can explain why, but essentially most of the grease has to get out of the way as the rollers turn.
Most trailering SNAFUS are due to bearings and/or tires. Tires get weak after time/sun even with new looking tread. Those small tires also use quite a bit more pressure than your car tires. Sounds like you have been diligent, enjoy your trip, I'm jealous...no sailing here for the next 4 months.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

rpiper138

Off topic, but I also lived in the 'Knife, small world eh? Early in my career I worked as a bush pilot up there. Flew Turbo Beaver on skiis/floats/wheels, also lots of twin otter time. Flew the Yellow birds, for Ptarmigan. Great hunting & fishing. A couple of the guys were pretty good windsurfers, alas I was not one of them.
You are right, that road was the s$@#ts, though I only drove it twice. As of 2 years ago it has all been paved, & the really crappy section from Rae Edzo to the 'Knife realigned. There are quite a few avid sailors, but I do not recall ever seeing a cat on the water. Would you have been one of those guys who sailed the ice boats off Joliffe Is right after freeze up? I never tried it, but man were they fast.
[][/img]
[][/img]



edited by: Edchris177, Dec 09, 2009 - 09:19 AM

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

Quote

The sides work like spring lines, one from stern of boat forwards, the other from front bar backwards. This prevents fore/aft movement

Smart move with the spring lines. I just picked up a Solcat that came with a beautiful trailer...but the guy had a basic ($9) ratchet system that i immediately replaced with good webbing and a cam cleat. But I never though about forward and back movement. Do you attach your spring lines to the beams or to the hulls?

Nate
NW Ontario/Winnipeg
Sol 18

Never sailed on the Slave, but did go for a swim once the ice broke. I also spent a good amount of time at the brewery near the plane dock on the way to old town and climbed the same chunk of rock that the top picture was taken from.

It is a great town. I heard that Sam Yurkiw (owner of The Range and Sam's Monkey Tree) died this year. I can't imagine Yellowknife ever being the same.

Oh yeah...never did the iceboat thing in the Knife, but have been on them on the Bay of Quinte near Trenton Ontario (and a couple of other places). They are fast and relatively dangerous.

Ice conditions are better further north, but you don't have to go north of 60. The ice on one of the lakes near Kapuskasing used to be great when it wasn't snow covered.

Sam did die, maybe the Strange Range will get cleaned for the first time in its life..hahha.
For a couple of seasons I kept my power boat tied up to that dock in front of the Brew Pub, very convienient. The "bar" in that place was the wing from an old steam beaver.

Natesmall:
I attached the spring lines to the fittings on the outside beam straps,(see pic). There was one of those fitting at each beam end on my NACRA 5.7
I couldn't wrap around the front beam as the tramp goes from edge to edge, & Jack told me not use the dolphin striker for any pulling/tying. Wrapping around the rear beam would have worked.
[][/img]



edited by: Edchris177, Dec 09, 2009 - 12:24 PM

I believe that Beaver crashed on Frame Lake many years before.

BTW: get end caps for the beams before you sail. The aluminum edges will tear you apart.

Interesting, you do know that is a front beam extrusion in the picture, that is mounted as the rear beam?? Shouldn't hurt anything, just an observation. . .



edited by: mummp, Dec 09, 2009 - 06:13 PM

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Philip
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I hope Nacra owners chime in here (as i could be wrong) BUT... i would be carefull about attaching your "Spring lines" to the beam /strap /bolts

if you ever hit the brakes hard... (or other) you could sheer the bolt/beam off the cat. those Nacra straps/bots are known to be problematic and i wouldn't want to end my season early becase a dog ran in front of my car while i was trailering my boat home.

I personally use 1 strap on each bow, and 1 on the rear beam. this basically prevents more than a fraction of play (fore and aft)...

just my 2 cents..

MUMMP:
Interesting observation,I did not notice that while in the inspection phase, before purchase.
While in the disassemble phase I noticed that both beams were identical. I attributed that to simpler/cheaper for the manufacturer, they could buy lengths of only one extrusion & cut them into sections. I thought perhaps the front beam was stronger, to hold the mast loads + tramp, while the rear might be a thicker wall to accept the traveller screws. They are identical beams.
I believe they came from the factory this. A very close examination after removing them showed two faint lines on only a portion of each end, corresponding to the location of the straps. I think it unlikely that changing them would have resulted in replacing the straps on the exact same position, I should see two sets of markings.
Do you have any info, pictures on what a truly original rear beam for a 5.7 looks like? To your knowledge what is the difference?




edited by: Edchris177, Dec 10, 2009 - 09:35 AM

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

I do have pictures but I'm a retard when it comes to posting without hosting the image.

The earlier rear extrusions had a traveler track bolted on. The newer rear extrusions had the track extruded into the form, which covered the entire length of the beam. A slot was machined into beam to allow the straps to be mounted. These newer extrusions were considerably lighter. I had them both ways and very much liked the all aluminum track included extrusion version.

I don't believe Nacra would build a boat this way. What probably happened is a previous owner ordered a replacement beam and this was sent in error or discounted, etc. . . . or he found one from someone/somewhere and made it work. I'll see if I have a picture in my album here.

Beam Straps. They do fail. It has happened to me twice, and while sailing. Keep an eye on them. Look for fatigue where the bend is in relationship to the strap castings.

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Philip
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I got censored for using "r.e.t.a.r.d." What's with that Damon?

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Philip
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I found a some old pics in my album, not great but should be good enough to see the extruded track.

http://www.thebeachcats.c…416&g2_imageViewsIndex=1
http://www.thebeachcats.c…449&g2_imageViewsIndex=1
http://www.thebeachcats.c…389&g2_imageViewsIndex=1


I still can't embed an image in post. AARRGGGG!

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Philip
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Quote

I found a some old pics in my album

Autopilot- HAHAHAHaha awesome!

Easy Image Imbed Instructions

Easiest to do with Firefox

Open a second browser window to the photo albums by right clicking on the album link and choose "open link in new window"

Browse to the image you want to imbed

Right click directly on the image and choose "Copy image location"

Come back to the forum post box.

Click on the Image button, that will insert

<code class="prettyprint"></code>

Right click in between the tags and
Choose paste

You should have something like this

<code class="prettyprint"></code>

Preview the post, you image should appear.

--
Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN

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MUMMP:
Thnx for the heads up regarding the straps. My 5.7 is an '84, I think this was before they extruded the traveler track, it is definitely screwed on.
I saved a couple of your pics, thye will be useful when it comes time to rig trapezes.
The pic titled "crystal clear water", what is the line that is shackled to the bottom of the DS rod? I can't quite make out if it ends at the mast, or goes into the tramp pocket. Is it some sort of mast safety line, or the righting line?
Thanks.

--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
--

damonAdmin

Easy Image Imbed Instructions

Easiest to do with Firefox

Open a second browser window to the photo albums by right clicking on the album link and choose "open link in new window"

Browse to the image you want to imbed

Right click directly on the image and choose "Copy image location"

Come back to the forum post box.

Click on the Image button, that will insert

<code class="prettyprint"></code>

Right click in between the tags and
Choose paste

You should have something like this

<code class="prettyprint"></code>

Preview the post, you image should appear.

Stupid me, that is exactly what I did. I just didn't see the images, so I went back and edited by removing the [img] and then adding the links.

BTW, there is one picture embedded there now, who did that?

--
Philip
--

Edchris177

MUMMP:
Thnx for the heads up regarding the straps. My 5.7 is an '84, I think this was before they extruded the traveler track, it is definitely screwed on.
I saved a couple of your pics, thye will be useful when it comes time to rig trapezes.
The pic titled "crystal clear water", what is the line that is shackled to the bottom of the DS rod? I can't quite make out if it ends at the mast, or goes into the tramp pocket. Is it some sort of mast safety line, or the righting line?
Thanks.

That is a rarely used righting line, just there for looks. ;)

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Philip
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Ok Guys, have finished bearings on trailer, took some pics and added an album in Tech Help Gallery, hope this helps.

Turbo

Awesome, thanks.

Somehow in the last 10 years I lost my grease gun. Not sure how to lose something like that, but I guess if you don't look for it for 10 years that can happen..

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Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
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Thanks Turbo, great job and thanks for posting.

Link to Turbos pictures
Replacing Trailer Wheel Bearings

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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN

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