Wondering if anyone has any experience with the epoxy sticks which have a clay consistency. These are the type you mix by kneading. I am wondering whether these may be a less intensive/less messy manner of bedding beams on hulls.
I think the sticks would be too
gummy
and not allow the excess to be sqeezed out as the beam is tightened down as completely as using epoxy with a filler to add some consistancy too it.
gummy
and not allow the excess to be sqeezed out as the beam is tightened down as completely as using epoxy with a filler to add some consistancy too it.
yeah, I kind of agree, but if laid on relatively thin I think it might be ok.. though would probably require a little more torquing to get it to smear out ok.
I guess I just need to be more patient with the epoxy and thicken it up more than I have done in the past.
Dont do it with that stuff. use West Systems high density filler. Its ultra tough. The beam seats are very high tension areas.
yeah, i think I will. I would hate to have to dig that stuff out if it cracks a lot or something. Just wondering what people's experience with it is.
The Epoxy 'sticks' that I've seen, are great for small, on the spot repairs. I've always keep them in my gear, never used it though.
One year in the Great Texas 300, a frinds N6.0na was taking on some water, and at the end of one leg, we flipped it on it's side on the beach, and he used some in various small holes in his bottom, and it helped alot.
However, the ones I've seen, get Hard REAL quick, like 3 minutes or less. FWIW
yup - the sticks are way to thick. Use Epoxy and Cabosil (fumed silica) thickening agent. To reduce the mess, build a damn using modeling clay around bolt holes (roll a ring) and outer edges of the beam recesses (use 3rd grade snake making technology). To make it look better (and not turn yellow), add aluminum powder or graphite to the slurry to turn it black and give UV resistance for the tiny exposed seams.
Once cured, you can remove the beam and peel out the clay. When setting the beam in the slurry - DO NOT TIGHTEN ALL THE WAY! Lightly snug up only. Only tighten after full cure of the socket.
I KNOW this is a dumb question, but without wax paper, or someithing like that, how do you keep the beam from sticking to the epoxy?
mold release wax
I have only used several coats of car wax (and I think I might have sprayed something on too, but can't remember specifics) and have used saran wrap before too. Car wax probably gets a better fit, but makes me more nervous than something physical. People with more experience can certainly chime in with more experience.
I used wax paper on the front beam when I did mine, on the rear, I put some wax, and it released fine (after wacking it with a rubber mallet).
yup - wax works fine. A good carnuba wax will do the trick. Any physical barrier will add a gap to the joint and defeat the purpose.
If you place a nylon washer under the beam on each each bolt you can tighten the beam bolts for alignment and still ensure you get a good film of epoxy mix. After curing, remove the washers and you have a small rebate for placing sealant/grease to help make watertight.
Cheshirecatman