Hi,
I want to add some extra grip to a few areas around the F16, in the past I have used the
Sprinkle brown suger on gelcoat filler method
, the
add sand to paint
method and A mate who did a refurbishment on one of my boats actually made a clay mold to make a layer of gelcoat into a suitable grippy surface.
Before I do this, I'm just tapping into the catsailor font of all knowledge to see if there are any other methods of making the side of a curved boat grippy. I've currently planning to use the suger method as some of the areas are complex curves (around the beam mounts for example).
Anyone else have any ideas ?
I did use normal marine grip tape with good succes.
Wouter
I did use normal marine grip tape with good succes.
Wouter
I'm not certain it will stick well around the multi-direction curves.
Mr Zogs sex wax. We use it on surf boards and body boards.
Personally, I would not use surfboard wax. It will make a mess and get into everything and it collects sand. Plus, it's not permanent, it will have to be scraped off and re-applied periodically.
There is a product called Re-Dek. It's a roll-on non-skid used for windsurf boards (Murrays sells it). It works ok. I would describe it as being medium agressive, which is probably good for areas where you'll be sitting as well as standing. One can is enough for an entire board, so that should be plenty for the rails of a cat.
sm
Bathtub flowers?
Hi All
Tape off the area, apply your paint or gelcoat, wait for it to start going off (not too much) run a paint roller over it til you get the finish you want. Try on a scrap of timber first, so you know how long to wait.
Regards
If there is an area of the boat that you want to copy the grip of or if there is another boat that has the deck you want you can try silicone molding.
I would find the area, to copy, that you can build a dam around. There are many things you could use to make it. Then I would pour two part silicone into the damned area. you will need to make a good damned area as the silicone will find every crevise. This is a fun way to say it so I am getting carried away. Make the part rather thin, to save money and have a flexible piece. You now have something that you can brush gelcoat onto and place on any sanded area you can find. After it gels you will be able to pull the silicone sheet from the boat and have a perfectly formed reverse of the deck. You will not even have to use mold release the gel coat will not stick unless you melt the silcone by making the Gel Coat too hot. But then you will have other problems like discoloration.
You could do an experiment once before adding the deck to the boat. That is to brush or pour on some gel coat to the piece and let it gel a bit. Then brush a thin coat of the same mix of gel coat where you want the deck. You will have to watch it. The thicker the resin the faster it will start to harden. It is important to keep the cup you mix it in with some material in it for a signal of how things are going. With a tacky gel happening put the silicone mounted piece on carefully as if you were trying to put on window tinting.
Later,
Dan
What would be useful on tramp wings. I could not get the black sand paper like strips to bond. No glue or adhesive I tried would hold.
Doug
I've had trouble getting 3M traction tape to stay stuck...even Marine grade stuff seems to lift off my gelcoat gunwales after a few days. I hate having agressive non-skid...eats through clothes, drysuits, knuckles.
I ran some grip tests on a sheet of plexiglas.
1. Standard Interlux marine non-skid flat paint (grey)
2. Ditto but with various amounts of extra Interlux traction additive mixed in
3. Rustoleum AntiSlip aerosol spray (Clear)
4. Rustoleum AntiSlip aerosol spray (black)
After full drying times, I put my weighted scuba boot on the surfaces and pulled it across with a digital fish scale (set to display max force). The interlux (with/without additive) was not as good as the Aerosol...even wet, the Rustoleum product did very well...more than 3x the force needed to drag the boot across the surface. The black version of the spray did the best overall.
The other nice thing about the spray...it was a relatively smooth surface...not lumpy/bumpy/scratchy. Very easy on knuckles etc.
So, I sanded down my poorly performing textured gelcoat gunwales, taped them off and sprayed on the Rustoleum Black. 20 minutes later job was done. Had it on the boat through a 10 day regatta and by all accounts it seems to be the right stuff for the job. Traction was not an issue and it seemed to stay on the gunwale quite well.
Only time will tell when/if it needs re-spraying, but so far we're happy with it.
Anti Slip Spray
Mike.
Mike:
Would this work on vinyl? Want to use it on mesh wing covers.
Doug
might be worth a try...but I suspect vinyl will not form a good bond with the paint.
Mike.
I have had great success with the 3M tapes. Surface prep is key. ( as you know)
Does anyone have any good luck with stuff bonding to vinyl wing covers?
Doug