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N20 Rudder Issues

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(@wyndsurf2000)
Posts: 1137
Master Chief Registered
Topic starter
 
[#23898]

I am having some real issues with the rudders on my N20. About 6 weeks ago, the eyebolt that fits over the top gudgeon and is used to adjust rudder rake sheered off leaving half inside the casting and the ring on the gudgeon. when the rudder flopped over, it broke the lower gudgeon. This occurred while sailing downwind with the kite up in about 20knts of wind. I replaced the eyebolt, and lower gudgeon. Yesterday, sailing upwind in about 15knots, the same thing happend. Neither time did we hit bottom or any other object. The rudders were tuned with only a slight weather helm (I like the feel). About 5 threads showing on the eyebolt. Any thoughts on what is causing this and how to solve the problem?


 
Posted : October 27, 2008 8:52 am
(@Anonymous 39832)
Posts: 3281
 

Carl

When the rudders are on, can you pickup on the bottom of the casting and

wiggle

the whole assembly while its mounted on the gudgeons? If so, throwing some spacer washers over the lower gudgeon between the top of the bottom casting hole and the spring clip. This keeps it from

hopping off

the top gudgeon. Also, as far as the eyebolts are concerned, sometimes they break. Sounds like you might have got got some crappy ones.


 
Posted : October 27, 2008 9:01 am
(@wyndsurf2000)
Posts: 1137
Master Chief Registered
Topic starter
 

There is no play at all in the rudder assembly (vertical or horizontal). They fit nice and snug on the gudgeons.


 
Posted : October 27, 2008 9:29 am
(@Anonymous 39832)
Posts: 3281
 

I think you're having eyebolt issues then.

Theres a special dye that my friend James told me about that can show those little microscopic cracks that lead to this problem. I'll try to get up with him and see what its called.


 
Posted : October 27, 2008 10:07 am
Jake Kohl
(@jake)
Posts: 11744
Three Star Admiral Registered
 

I've had that happen before too - was it the new one that cracked the second time or the other? Those eyes are susceptible to a lot of cycle loading and prone to fatigue at the weld. Dye crack detection methods are a good idea...or just spend the $30 to replace them both yearly.

With the dye, you spray on the dye, let it sit for a bit, then clean the part off (rag / towel / etc). Then you hit it with a solvent / developer and if you see dye appear in an area, there was a tiny crack it was hiding in. It's tough to use on a weld because the weld surface is usually pretty irregular and hard to get all the dye off to begin with. The better method is magnaflux - but it doesn't work on non-ferrous materials (stainless).


 
Posted : October 27, 2008 10:33 am
macca
(@macca)
Posts: 981
Member
 

you need to make sure that the locknut is really tight, if it works loose then the bolt will break.


 
Posted : October 27, 2008 10:52 am
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