Nacra 5.5 or P18.2

I sailed both, and I'm biased towards the the P18-2

I must confess that, arguably, the NACRA 5.5 SL featured the finest hull design and sail plan available on the USA market in the mid - nineties.

Not only was the boat very well balanced, but the power to weight ratio was in accordance with the NACRA 5.2 so the boat could be really driven when the pressure was up in an angry sea state.

There are stories that tell of 5.5s beating 6.0s boat for boat along the Gulf Coast, but that's just bartalk <img src="<>/smile.gif" alt="smile" title="smile" height="15" width="15" />

Thanks for the replies. I was a bit more interested in the P18-2 initially, but the Nacra had been well loved and was in better shape. And I liked how it sailed, so tomorrow it'll be mine!

It will soon become part of the Star Fleet:

The first report from Houston: Launch successful!

KMwI2puSeyw&index=1&feature=plcp

Andinista,

May I offer a couple hints?
1. Tighten the rig - Use the mainsheet by traveling down to the end of the traveler track, sheeting hard to loosen the shroud then repin. Make sure the shrouds are in equal holes and the rig is in column. Tight is faster.
2. On all three mains I used, the traveler car on the mainsail wanted to be kept forward upwind for a tighter foot and better overall sail shape - avoid over rotating with a loose rig.. Be like a windsurfer and downhaul, downhaul, downhaul the mainsail & keep that jib luff tight especially in Force Five. Check the rake of your diamonds and the tension - go for aligned prebend. In - column is faster on both tacks and balances the helm.

That reminds me - ensure the main beam has prebend built in via the dolphin striker. Tighten the nut for the rod under the main beam until a slight prebend is present. This allows for more rig tension and saves the main beam.

... also, we found our mast would rotate better if we placed a thin plastic 'bearing' in the mast base to resist friction...

I wish I still had my boat now <img src="<>/smile.gif" alt="smile" title="smile" height="15" width="15" />

Hey, thanks! Feedback and advice is exactly what I need.

Where did you note lack of rig tension? (or where do you think it hurts the most?) I was surprised to see the forestay curved upwind, I thouhgt the wind itself would keep it straight even if rig tension was a bit loose (per my previous experience), but apparently this jib is big enough to do that. (I am assuming that the jib halyard tension is not intended to take that much tension and help keeping forestay straight). The jib halyard system is currently 1:1, I will modify for more purchase, not sure yet if I'll rig the halyard throuhg the stay or through the mast, I'll try the ideas I have on my mind and see.

I didn't play too much with the traveler car on the mainsheet and not a lot with the downhaul, but I had in my mind that too forward and too tight, respectively, meant 100% de-powering. I hear your advice and will be testing.

Please explain what you mean by

In - column is faster ..

Please more details of the mast plastic bearing. I saw some plastic circles on ebay but never figure out if they were for what you are suggesting of for a diffent mast step.

Thanks again!
Cheers
Andrés

Aloha Andres,

Headstay sag on the 5.5 or other high performance cats is NOT good. The Hobie 16 has a wire in the luff of the jib which becomes the 'new' headstay. Do not try and tension the rig with the 5.5 jib - tighten the shrouds to maximize tension under load. The sailcloth ain't gonna tighten the rig. I noticed that when your crew was white knuckling the weather shroud there was too much play (despite the fish eye effect).

Now let's begin at the front of the boat. The bridle foil is designed to maximize rig tension without pinching the bows in and losing hull/foil alignment. Since there is no way to raise and lower the mast with the required tension for sailing we used to always leave one side loose for stepping. Once the main was up we pulled the traveler car over and sheeted the main to re - set the 'loose' shroud. Before we dropped the main, we would loosen one side in the same fashion as stepping it (reverse order). Make sure the Enterprise is pointed into the wind. Bottom Line - a loose rig and under - trimmed main can result in sudden mast failure due to snapping inertia, and less importantly the helm falls out of balance - oops, crash and burn.

The spreaders should be raked in harmony with the sail cut and diamond tension adequate to keep the mast straight (in column). Bend is bad unless it is fore and aft.

NACRA used to produce thin delrin chips, but I do not believe that is the case nowdays. When we were in a pinch we would sacrifice the soft plastic lid of a food container and cut it to fit. This protected the mast ball from wear and tear as well since we raced with a super tight rig. I have seen NACRA 5.2s come in after a day of sailing with a lose rig at the end of the day. After lowering the mast the owners were discovering their mast balls splintered. Be aware of flat - topped mast balls. Delrin is much kinder to mast bases than stainless.

The tighter rig will balance the helm, improve sail shape, and improve the gps numbers <img src="<>/smile.gif" alt="smile" title="smile" height="15" width="15" />

Go Sailing, and if you would like some coaching buy me a plane ticket and put me up for a few days <img src="<>/smile.gif" alt="smile" title="smile" height="15" width="15" /> Maybe we could get you ready for a shiny new Farrier 22 (one of those

Klingon

tri hulls).

Bert Rice
NACRA 5.5 Discovery (I miss it)
Corsair 24 Mark Twain
J 29 Rush
Viper F 16 Snake Bite

Cool, thanks! Let me know if you are a just a bit closer and I'll buy that ticket.. (unless I figure out how to make just a bit more money and I buy it before...). The warp speed system will be repaired by then for sure, anyway.. Live long and prosper!
Andrés Chianale

Are you missing a second daggerboard?

Yes, i'm making a new one.

The 4 way jib system is missing too, I made a simpler one that seems enough:
A line from side to side, instead of the wire, and short loops to attach the blocks, on each side, tied to the line with prussik knots. Slide easy and stays there. Much simpler and good enough so far.

Was that at Tommy Grangers house on clear Lake- Houston?

Lake Rapel in Chile

(I meant Houston Space Center...)