I've seen in past posts about 3M 5200 Silicone, recommended for sealing the seams and rivets on masts, as well as other things.
Is there really a difference, by using 5200?
I've looked for 3M 5200 in some stores. Just can't find it, but I have seen various Silicone sealers and adhesives by 3M, Permantex and other brands.
I'm referring to the sealer that people here refer to, for spreading around existing rivets and seams on a mast, to prevent water from getting inside. Also the gaps where the front and rear crossbars meet the hulls, also to reduce the chance of water entering the hulls in this area.
So, why find and use 3M 5200, instead of the more common silicone sealers I see?
Marshall
Is there really a difference, by using 5200?
I've looked for 3M 5200 in some stores. Just can't find it, but I have seen various Silicone sealers and adhesives by 3M, Permantex and other brands.
I'm referring to the sealer that people here refer to, for spreading around existing rivets and seams on a mast, to prevent water from getting inside. Also the gaps where the front and rear crossbars meet the hulls, also to reduce the chance of water entering the hulls in this area.
So, why find and use 3M 5200, instead of the more common silicone sealers I see?
Marshall
I don't think anything comes close to the durability, adhesion, and toughness of 3M 5200. It's very difficult to remove once it sets up. I live 180 miles inland from the coast yet all our local Wal-Marts carry 3M 5200 in the marine section. You can also order it from the store on this website.
Thanks Jake. I'll continue looking for the 5200.
Marshall
5200 has its uses...but generally best left for things that will never/hardly ever need separating. It normally is very tough to remove...but I found a product that does a good job on it and is safe for your boat surfaces/paint.
I use 5200 (or sometimes the faster curing 4200) to hold the mylar centerboard slot strips on my Tornado's keel line. Holds that on indefinately until I need to swap them out.
Note the cure times for 5200 are 24-72 hrs, depending on humidity (reaction is moisture dependant).
Thanks Mike. I knew the set-up time is around a couple days and the curing could take near a week, but didn't know it was dependant on moisture in the air. The air is currently hot and dry in my area. Might the curing process not proceed correctly?
Should I consider an alternative product?
Spritz it with a spray bottle. That also helps regular silicon go off faster.