5/32 " 1X19 VINYL COATED ss WIRE
downhaul and outhaul are very powerful on my boat
also in med air i will crack off the traveler an inch or 2 from center - this wont help vmg but will help depower a bit
jibs at 110 is typical for non self tacking jibs but i do swap between my 5.5 and 6.0 jib depending on wind -
a poorly trimmed jib (or main) is not your friend - consider getting the jib cut down a bit or your sheeting blocks moved to improve fit?
The jib blocks are nominal for adjustment. They only move fore and aft to change angle on the clew; kind of hard to open/close the slot effectively. A tweaker or different block arrangement may be in order as there's effectively no class for my boat and I'm not a "serious racer". A new regular or 90% jib actually may help a bit.
Trapezing off a 21SE wing is a wild ride when you fly a full. You are already up off the water before you fly a hull. I never flipped mine for fear of fighting it, but solo trapezing off the wing is a blast. I agree just like the H18, the job adjustment is minimal. I agree with easing out the traveler to help keep the hull down when the wind picks up.
another NYC snowstorm so on line and asking if anyone has experience with a bench/wing for Dart 18? had factory wings on a prindle 16 (stolen) and a Hobie 18 sold /replaced by Nacra 570 but we lost One bench in a capsize and am searching for ONE N570 BENCH,purchased a pair of aluminum benches for far too much$ from a vendor/sailor on this site, they weighed 4x stock benches,despite cost we threw them away and im a "saver". Today I re- reviewed a Practical Sailor article 1/27/21 on Sailboat Rig Inspection Tips, the addendum at bottom by Drew Frye advises NEVER use coated wire and explains dyneema failures eg knotting it, also reviewed anchoring-for those of you who moor cats like i do was informative although I use much heavier chain and mushrooms in Great South Bay, Danforth in Fort Lauderdale
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