Things to watch out for on a Nacra 5.5

Czesc Jan,

This may not be specifically on N5.5, but still a good resource.

http://www.sailingproshop.com/catamaran_guide.aspx

BTW, Tak, ja mowie po polsku 🙂

jackb wrote: Czesc Jan,

This may not be specifically on N5.5, but still a good resource.

http://www.sailingproshop.com/catamaran_guide.aspx

BTW, Tak, ja mowie po polsku 🙂

Yes I read that yesterday, The bible for secondhand catamarans
🙂

Edited by janb on Apr 16, 2014 - 06:19 AM.

I am a current nacra owner and have been for the past 20 years and love my nacra's. I currently have an F18. The thing that I have noticed on a few of the 5.5 were that the deck lids would start to separate much sooner than I would expect. Not that they could not be repaired, but it would be one of the first places that I would inspect closely.

Be very careful installing the beam bolts, the are easily stripped.

The connection between the tiller and tiller crossbar has a weld that tends to brake allowing the tiller crossbar to rotate and will lock the steering. There is a replacement part that solves this problem but the holes need to be re-drilled.

The bottom of the dagger board wells tend to wear and leak, the well wall is very thin. Also check for cracks fore and aft of the bottom of the daggerboard well, these are caused by hitting something with the daggerboard.

The Mylar sail material was prone to de-laminate. Newer materials like pentax seem to last longer. Bubbles in the cloth, outer film pealing off.

The connection on the sides of the bridle foil where the wire on top ends were prone to brake especially on salt water boats.

These apply to all 90's model Nacra 6.0, 5.8 NA and 5.5 SL, the USA boats anyway, things could be different in Europe.

nacra55 wrote: Be very careful installing the beam bolts, the are easily stripped.

The connection between the tiller and tiller crossbar has a weld that tends to brake allowing the tiller crossbar to rotate and will lock the steering. There is a replacement part that solves this problem but the holes need to be re-drilled.

The bottom of the dagger board wells tend to wear and leak, the well wall is very thin. Also check for cracks fore and aft of the bottom of the daggerboard well, these are caused by hitting something with the daggerboard.

The Mylar sail material was prone to de-laminate. Newer materials like pentax seem to last longer. Bubbles in the cloth, outer film pealing off.

The connection on the sides of the bridle foil where the wire on top ends were prone to brake especially on salt water boats.

These apply to all 90's model Nacra 6.0, 5.8 NA and 5.5 SL, the USA boats anyway, things could be different in Europe.

Thank you

HULLFLYER wrote: I am a current nacra owner and have been for the past 20 years and love my nacra's. I currently have an F18. The thing that I have noticed on a few of the 5.5 were that the deck lids would start to separate much sooner than I would expect. Not that they could not be repaired, but it would be one of the first places that I would inspect closely.

Thank you

Edited by janb on Apr 17, 2014 - 12:11 AM.

The seller told me that the sail looks like it has been painted, if I need a new sail for the Nacra 5.5 where should I look?

Look where the mast post bolt goes through the main beam for rust and corrosion.. These main beams are hard to get if it is rusted out... Here a few pics of what you don't want to see

janb wrote: The seller told me that the sail looks like it has been painted

Painted sails? Really?

This is where I got my sail,

http://www.whirlwindsails.com/images.html

I am not sure how much would be shipping to Europe...

JohnES wrote: Look where the mast post bolt goes through the main beam for rust and corrosion.. These main beams are hard to get if it is rusted out... Here a few pics of what you don't want to see

Ok , but how much is to much ?
It's look like this happened because lack of the right grease or no grease at all?

Edited by janb on Apr 17, 2014 - 11:40 AM.