10:1 main blocks

If you have a triple with becket up top then you could use a double 40mm harken block below this and a couple of blocks on springs on the lower unit. If you have a quad up top then you can tie a 40mm block from this. If you want real easy then throw down for the 57mm 5 block and then do a search on here for various roving options.

Chris.

Here is a pic of my 10:1 mainsheet. i have a few other views I can post or send to you if you want more. The 10:1 really requires a tapered sheet since the roving is extensive however, mine moves very easily.

do yopu have a good pic of both blocks? im interested in how the top one is tyed in and how the bottom is set up.

You will be taking in/letting out ALOT of sheetline w/ a 10x1 mainsheet stack. I just do exercizes that strengthen my arm muscles. I have one of those

squeezie/grip

exercizers that I carry in my car. When I am driving to work I do 100 reps each hand ... on the way home I do another 100 reps ...

Let's shake hands ...

HarryMurphey
H18mag/#9458, Fleet54/Div11
P19mx w/spin /#86, CRAC

On the F18 we went from 8:1 to 10:1 and it made very little difference in the amount of sheet that you adjust. FWIW, we never cleat the main. Pull on enough downhaul so that the main leach is soft enough to fall off in the puffs.

Note to self.... stay off the roads in Chesapeak Bay ... the drivers there are exercising

Mike, what are you using on the Infusion for spreader rake and diamond tension?

Let the crew saw the main. Its not like they do any work anyways 😛

I don't remember the spreader rake, whatever the setup guide was..

Diamond tension varies between 350 and 850 depending on the conditions. 550 is our base setting.

The problem with putting a double on the cleat flange on this carbo lower block...you'll blow out the plastic side plates with the added loading:

here ya go....

Here's two more versions of what I've seen for the 10:1.

I use the Stock Harken on the bottom and added a 40mm Double to the metal becket. I used to use a triple with a double on the top until it broke. Harken would not warranty it because they said I over stressed it. Now I have a 5 sheave (57mm) for the top. I use tapered lines so it will run through the blocks easier. You do not want to run the line from the cleat to one of the sides on the top. That will **** the top and make it harder to sheet. Keep the first run on one of the middle sheaves.

I have made an illustration to show how I prefer running the line: Lacing 10:1 for the Main Sheet

I do cleat the main while my crew, Eileen, uses the downhaul(16:1) to depower us when needed. If I have a guy crewing on the boat then the main cleats go up and they can muscle it to their hearts content without it cleating.

Later,
Dan

Thats one nice tapered sheet you have there... must have been $$$

hey, do you have an illistration for a standard lacing? 8:1 (i think)

Thats a 12:1 actually...

And, you may run into clearance issues if you are runnig a lot of mast rake...the distance between the upper & lower can get limiting when needing to honk on.

My current setup:

Here's some serious line tapering:

A lot of the T's now use cascaded systems running inside the boom. Uses much smaller/lighter blocks and runs freer than a non-cascade traditional setup.

yeah, sorry
skip a couple sheaves and it'll be 10:1