Just make sure he slices it into 1/4-1/2" slices and fries/cooks it using a well seasoned cast iron skillet .... when you deep fry it like some diners do, it is too greasy.
(I just had a vision of trying to cook a (1)lb block of Habbersats Scrapple ...HaHaHa)
He'll need a bottle of Hienz Ketchup also ....
Thanks for the info ...
Harry
how is dynaglass different from bondo?
Dyna Glass has glass strands mixed in it. Bondo doesn"t. For repairs that are deeper(thicker) using something like Dyna Glass will help ensure that it will be less likely to crack. For things like scratches using a glazing putty like Evercoat is better. It's all about the type of filler used to make the putty. Some are stronger, some are easier to sand. I like to use gel coat and add my own mix of fillers depending on what needs to be done.
That is my preferred method as well, that is mix up some gel coat with colloidal silica West Systems #406(wear a mask when using this stuff, it will shred your lungs)to the point to where it has the viscosity between mayonnaise and peanut butter. My Prindle's and 5.8 have plenty of these little patches on them and they held up very well.
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I believe all the bondo type products are polyester resin. At least they used to be. Polyester can be thickened with cab-o-sil which I think is collodial silica.
The traditional problem with bondo is that it started out using talc as a thickener which led to water absorbancy problems.
Newer products, particularly those described as lite, may not be so prone to absorbancy.
I've been using a lite body filler on my Blade for some time and have had no problems.
What do you do about gelcoat crazing? Im restoring a 1963 Boston Whaler, and have begun to Dremel out the Gelcoat cracks with the thought of using a filler afterwards. Is there a better way?
I sure hope you're talking about a Supercat catamaran that was built after Bosten Whaler bought the outfit for a short time. This 'aint no stinkpot forum.
Such harsh words from Jake. So lets assume it is the cat version, or even if it is not the answer is the same. Crazing is cause by the gel coat being too thick due gel coat not having any flexabilty while the glass has some. Dremeling and filling will probably result in more of the same. I would recommend taking the gelcoat off completely, or at the very least almost completely. An air file with some 60 grit will do with some effort. In the right hands a belt sander on low speed with some 120 will make quick work of it, but if you are not carefull it will make things very bad in .21 seconds. If you use the belt sander plan to fair the surface out using 3M piranah putty or similar product. You can that paint or regelcoat (my suggestion) after that.
David and I go back quite some time and I was ribbing him because it sounds like he bought a motor boat instead of getting back into catamaran sailing like he's been talking about for the better part of two years! It was in good jest.
Do you have a picture? I think crazing involves a fine spider web of cracks over a large area.
I friggin hate gelcoat crazing. always seems to appear where there are significant structural loads which always makes me wonder...
can someone direct me to a post about how to post pics? I used to know how, but have forgotten
can someone direct me to a post about how to post pics? I used to know how, but have forgotten
Had that issue with my NACRA 5.8 when I put the spinnaker on it, started to get a lot of spider cracks at the bow tangs and the main beam area.
I have them on my 31 where the beams are bolted down. I have a good pic, but can't post it
To post a picture go reply-file manager-browse-Open the pic-add file-done.
The most likely problem you'll run into is the file size being too big.
It doesn't sound like a crazing problem, rather flexing below the cracks.
thanks!!
Not crazing imo. Is the bolt too tight? (I'd guess the bolt it over tightened and the laminate has been crushed) In any case I'm sure the damage is from movement in that area. I'd consult other owners of that particular model.
Merry Christmas!
That is not crazing. Crazing makes the gelcoat look almost like aligator skin or a dried up lake bed. Those are stress cracks. To fix the crack use a very small drill bit and drill a hole through the crack at each end to prevent further spread. Then open the crack with a dremel and fill. Before you go through all that trouble you need to determine how to reinforce the area or the cracks will come back. As said earlier the bolt may have been overtightened. My recomendation would be fix the overstress/under built issue then repair as described above.
Take a 1963 hull, expose it to the Sun for 40 years, and cracks appear. These are longitudinal, on the outer hull, and are pretty deep. They arent stress cracks from overtightening, and they dont look like alligator skin, and I dont want to sand all the gelcoat off even though I am going to paint the entire boat. Im looking for an easy fix...and yes, it has a motor.
I did ask aout getting the Supercat for a Christmas present this moring though...no answer yet...but Im close. but Jake, Im gonna need a structural glassman for that project. Get that Manshed done quickly! And yes I do still own and race a Laser, gonna race it next weekend, bring the cats so Cary will have some competition on his new toy!
Google Imron, look for a filler/primer. Temporary at best. There is no fix. Remove the crazing, start over.
I think the root cause of crazing is too much hardener in the original mix. Paint film should have some ability to expand and contract with heat, same with gel coat. Yours is just too brittle.
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systems
and not all individual components are compatible. Do A LOT more research or be prepared to do a lot of flu$hing. They get expensive in a hurry.