Can any of these haul a boat /trailer?
This is the thing that most people forget that scares me when towing anything. It doesn't take many downhill grades, or tight twisty down hill corners to start losing brakes on a little car. It takes caution to do so safely. Brakes and suspension are more of a determining factor in what a vehicle can carry than power.
Dude, these cars are less than $10,000 NEW. They don't even come with Cruise Control for pete's sake.So I'd figure a 2 year old model would run about $6,000.
I'd consider them as
disposable
(good American attitude there), and if I blew the engine after four years, I'd probably just drop another one in pretty cheap. A 1.6L 4banger is not too expensive. And being that small and simplistic, I don't imagine they'd be too tough to work on.
I agree that any modification would most certainly void the warranty. But how good are warranties anyway these days? I haven't read the fine print on any lately.

I wouldn't doubt that in the manual for any one of those cars it would say,
maximum towing capacity 1,000 pounds
. And then in the warranty details it would say,
towing any trailer voids the vehicle warranty.
I'd consider them as
disposable
(good American attitude there), and if I blew the engine after four years, I'd probably just drop another one in pretty cheap. A 1.6L 4banger is not too expensive. And being that small and simplistic, I don't imagine they'd be too tough to work on.
I agree that any modification would most certainly void the warranty. But how good are warranties anyway these days? I haven't read the fine print on any lately.
Have you considered the 4 cylinder Ford Ranger? They're pretty cheap, and get pretty decent milage.
I didn't intend to tow with mine, but with the price of diesel fuel this year I've been using it exclusively.
My 99 Dodge Intrepid ES has been a great car to tow, its got decent power and the rear seats fold down. Go find a used one, over the life of my car, I've gotten 23 mpg, its the ES with the 245 hp engine. When I have the Acat on the back, I have to keep reminding myself that its back there, I dont even notice it when I'm driving.
Dodge seems pretty overpowered (and overpriced) although much better looking than the compacts.
These midget cars get 35-40 mpg highway (not with trailer). And since I won't be hauling a trailer that much, I'm not sure I'd need something as big as the Dodge.
Maybe a Neon or something.
As far as accidents, unless I'm driving an Expedition, I figure I might as well get squashed outright rather than be permanently disabled for the next 40 years.
can you get trailer hitches for those cars? Might be a factor.
I still haven't figured out how to break it to Bonnie that the VW Jetta wagon is getting a hitch...maybe I quietly install it one weekend and act like it's always been there? <img src=
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Of course, she'll probably read this next week.
like the
normal" cat trailers.
I guestimate the trailer, cat, and equipment will be around 900-1000 lbs. max.
Here's the choices:
Chevy Aveo - 103hp - 107 ft. lbs. torque
Kia Rio - 110hp - 107 ft. lbs. torque
Toyota Yaris - 106hp - 103 ft. lbs. torque
Honda Fit - 109hp - 105 ft. lbs. torque
I own an Honda Fit. DO NOT ATTEMPT to tow anything with it, not even an a-cat, not even an opti.
I tow a double stacked trailer (non aluminum, two blades, one sail box and one truck box) with my Nissan Sentra...standard 5 speed, no AC....and get 20-25 mpg's. (without I get 32-34mpg) NO problems! The trailer hitch was a birthday present to myself. <img src=
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Here Ya Go:
That's a 162 hp Cooper S.
The trailer is steel in this picture. I was pulling it with a Rabbit GTi (~120 hp) for a few years, even up steep/long hills. Cooper was much better for the power but also it has much stiffer suspension...the nose of the car wasn't pointing up all the time.
My current trailer is all aluminum...but does have a big wooden storage box...so I'm not too sure it's lighter than the steel setup.
Note that the biggest safety concern with this setup is the constant attention it seems to attract from other drivers & their passengers, even on the freeway at 70 mph. People really shouldn't be leaning out windows at that speed trying to take a picutre with a cell phone! At least use a proper SLR & so you can call it
ART
<img src=
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This is the thing that most people forget that scares me when towing anything. It doesn't take many downhill grades, or tight twisty down hill corners to start losing brakes on a little car. It takes caution to do so safely. Brakes and suspension are more of a determining factor in what a vehicle can carry than power.
But what about the 250lb dudes IN the car. If they can fit in the car then the brake should handle that or the 1000lb trailer behind the car. I think 1000lbs is not above and beyond most designed braking loads. no one should expect to stop in the same distance as without the brakes.... but you get my point.

like the
normal" cat trailers.
I guestimate the trailer, cat, and equipment will be around 900-1000 lbs. max.
Here's the choices:
Chevy Aveo - 103hp - 107 ft. lbs. torque
Kia Rio - 110hp - 107 ft. lbs. torque
Toyota Yaris - 106hp - 103 ft. lbs. torque
Honda Fit - 109hp - 105 ft. lbs. torque
I own an Honda Fit. DO NOT ATTEMPT to tow anything with it, not even an a-cat, not even an opti.
why not?
Safety.
All the cars mentioned have adequate HP and torque to tow 500-700 lbs. But their short wheel bases, minimalistic brakes, spindly chassis and light weights make them unsuitable to safely tow a 16+ foot catamaran due to the windage of the load. (A small, compact load of similar weight may be a different story.) I've towed a lot of boats and other trailers of various shapes and sizes over the years. You do not want the tail wagging the dog!
A well balanced trailer, meaning reasonable tongue weight(just shy of 100 lbs in this arena). That combined with a level trailer (similar sized tires go a long way toward this goal) will follow you on a good hitch without much drama in any of the cars mentioned. Good shocks and upgraded springs (in the rear esp.) are also easy replacements for safer towing. The goal is to reduce the distance the tongue travels between the ball and the ground. The stiff suspension on the Mini for example is fine. Just be sure to keep the total weight for the trailer package less than the rating on the hitch probably 1000-1500 lbs
The difference between the four 1/8 of a ton club members and the 1000lb trailer is the location of the weight. Put your toolbox and spares in the car not the trailer. My VW Cabriolet is not heavier than the Fit or Yaris and with a sport suspension and nothing else, it pulls the Tornado without problems. It's also easy to see with the top down. I will admit that I really like pulling the boat with my van because of the a/c and space availability for passangers. That brings you right bback to the oil debate on another thread. BTW 22-28 MPG with the Cabriolet 12-14 MPG with the Eurovan with the boat
H16 with a ford focus. Heavy steel trailer, heavy pvc sail tube, heavy hulls. About 800 - 900 lbs fully loaded. Averaged 25.6 mpg on a 600 mile trip last week, towing the boat.
Get around 30/35 without the boat. That's driving like an old person. 55 with the left turn signal on.![[Linked Image]](http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b161/Tri_X_Troll/Boat/l_be586390c9fe25851ddd02c14bba8ac7.jpg)
My old 1992 Honda Accord would get 36 with heavy acceleration and insane braking. Never did figure milage towing the trailer, but it handled the boat much better than the ford. Personally, I'd go for the Fit and then look for an older Accord or Camry wagon for boat towing. I've ruined the carpet in the focus tracking sand after sailing.
You used to be able to find a good one for $1500 and insurance is dirt cheap.
![[Linked Image]](http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b161/Tri_X_Troll/DSC00588.jpg)

Usually the tail wagging the dog results from unsafe speeds....Speed is a huge factor in safe trailering. I really can tell the difference when towing with my Protege5 compared to our minivan....with the minivan I never feel the trailer getting squirly, even at higher speeds, but with the Protege I have to watch my speed (but it still feels rock solid at less than 65 mph). On one trip from the west to the east coast of Florida yesterday I saw three broken down PWC trailers with various forms of axle/bearing breakdowns, and i bet this was primarily due to excessive speeds (one guy came flying by at 80+ MPH,wagging his tail, only to be passed by me by the side of the road a few miles later...). If you check the European manufacturers specs, you should get a good idea about max braked and unbraked trailer weights and tongue weights for small cars (they have all the experience over there in regards to small car towing), and if you combine that with safe speeds (not exceeding 60mph or so) you will be fine, and you will get great fuel mileage! The hydrodynamic shape of cat hulls helps as well to limit frontal drag.
This confuses the snot out of me. I get 15-16mpg pulling my boat with a 3/4 ton pickup. I get about the same mileage pulling a 7x16 enclosed trailer that empty weighs twice as much as my boat + trailer. I think there is a lot more windage there then you would think. The absolute worst mileage I've gotten was 7mpg doing 70 through Illinois into a headwind way over weight, (like pickup and a 24' enclosed car trailer packed full of crap were close to 27,000 lbs), it confuses me why something so small like a beach cat would drag my mileage down so far. Heck, I put 7 boats in that same car trailer going out to the mini-mega in NY last year and averaged 12.7mpg! I get around 20mpg empty btw.
or, the air comes off the back of my pickup in the least cat-towing-friendly way possible.
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