F18 rigging
The post about Tiger rigging spurred this question. i am planning to get a Nacra F18 in the spring. What modifications are going to be needed to get this up racing level? How much extra am I going to have to invest? Although i am less interested in a Tiger, what would the modifications to F18 cost?
Thanks
Gordon
Technically, you are ready to go racing with the stock boat. In reality, a couple of spinlocks and some tapered sheets are about all that is needed to be ready to rock n' roll with the best of them. If you want to get really serious, re-configure the downhaul and mast rotator, add a jib halyard tensioning system, and some chicken lines...
-Mike
Although I haven't kept a neatly chronological website like John has, I too have recently been through my Nacra F18 to upgrade it with all the convenience items I could dream of. I was actually quite pleased with the way the boat came rigged and it was all completely functional. The only real complaint that I had was that the spinnaker halyard was run so that it was easy to accidently cleat when snuffing. the other things are tiny little rigging differences that may or may not make any kind of real difference. What I added is the following:
- Spin system does have the extra blocks on the front beam for the spin sheet but they are only free-wheeling harken air blocks. I replaced mine with ratchematics for about $100. Spinlocks are probably just as good, if not better (and cheaper) in that position too.
- added a small harken cleat to the deck just behind the daggerboard to relocate the mast rotation line ($15).
- changed the spinnaker halyard cleat from a harken swivel cleat on the main beam to a spinlock and bullseye fairlead on the side of the mast to eliminate accidental cleating when snuffing (works beautifully). $30
- changed some of the non-handled lines to spectra with eye splices. $15 and a little time.
- tapered and eye-spliced the supplied main sheet (time).
- ran a jib uphaul back to the trampoline (the original is set and cleated on the forestay above the furling drum). This was the most complicated addition. I built and installed a micro two sheave organizer on the bottom of the front beam and turned the line back to the existing cleats on the deck for what was the mast rotation lines. $15 including line.
- also ran some bunji inside the main beam for taking care of the tails of the jib sheet and the tail of the new jib uphaul line. $20
- added a set of chicken lines for distance racing - which really wasn't necessary.
yeah...but they're supposed to keep you from getting washed off in the first place! We hardly used our chicken lines mostly because we had to place our weight so far back (I was stradling the rear beam) when the chop got really heavy that I couldn't get enough angle on it. Traditionally, I'm used to using the chicken line to keep us from getting thrown forward because getting thrown backwards is usually a result of a mistake onboard
. Some improvements to my system might help some.
Come to think of it though, they did help give me something to grab after righting the boat post-pitchpole coming out of Angelfish creek.
I remember the reaction I got when I asked Nigel what the grip tape was for on the back of the rear beam. I was told "if you don't know, you don't want to know - trust me". We've been toying with the idea on the F18 but haven't yet had the motivation to attempt such a thing. It's a looooong way to fall if that boat pitchpoles!
Gordon, would love to have you around in this growing fleet here in the "old Div 9" area. we are growing and planning and it seems to be snowballing into a rather large fleet. More info at www.naf18.com, www.seacats.org for local(SC, NC, Ga, Va area.
David Mosley
F18 #351
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