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Marine-Tex Penetrating Epoxy

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(@banzilla)
Posts: 230
Member
Topic starter
 
[#18258]

Can either of these products be used for a de-lam repair on an H16? Will they melt the foam core? I ask, because I can get it localy and would like to do the repair before going to the lake tomorrow afternoon. It talks about a low % of solvent.

http://www.marinetex.com/PRODUCT%20PAGE_...y%20General.htm
or
http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=21

Thanks
Sam


 
Posted : August 10, 2006 5:39 pm
(@Anonymous 15720)
Posts: 10
 

I'd use the Marine-Tex. The second won't fully harden up. Either way, you've got to use an epoxy product so it will adhere to the inside surfaces. If you are talking about a soft deck, I wouldn't worry about the foam. I just did my boat and the foam was very crumbly disintegrated anyway.

I'd recommend buying more epoxy then you think you'll need, then return what you don't open if possible. I don't remember exactly, but I'm sure the 4oz kit won't be enough.


 
Posted : August 10, 2006 5:51 pm
(@catman)
Posts: 1600
Master Chief Registered
 

You could make an argument for either product.

The only thing is if you do it now and then go sailing tommorrow no matter what you use, you will be wasting your time. The resin needs a week to cure to about 90%. A month to fully cure.

So what you need to do is do it now and go sailing next week or go sailing, take it easy and then do the repair when your done. Give it the time to cure as much as possible.

Since this repair (depending on size) is just a band aid and the area will most likely need attention again. I would use the polyester. The polyester will stick to cured poly better than epoxy will stick to cured epoxy. I would thin it a little and add a little mill fibre to it.


 
Posted : August 10, 2006 6:26 pm
(@banzilla)
Posts: 230
Member
Topic starter
 

Mike, thanks for the advice. I am going to wait and do the repair next week, that way I can order the right stuff from Rick and do the job correctly even maybe add the ports.

Our Local fleet will be at NM's largest lake Elephant Butte (not that big of a lake) this weekend roasting a pig for their annual Luau.

Sea ya on the water

Sam


 
Posted : August 10, 2006 6:38 pm
Jake Kohl
(@jake)
Posts: 11744
Three Star Admiral Registered
 
Quote
The polyester will stick to cured poly better than epoxy will stick to cured epoxy.

Actually that's not true - epoxy sticks better to cured poly than poly sticks to cured poly. Epoxy sticks better to everything - but not everything sticks well to epoxy. <img src=

alt=

/>


 
Posted : August 10, 2006 7:11 pm
(@catman)
Posts: 1600
Master Chief Registered
 

The point is he will most likley have to mess with that area again. He cannot gain access to that area to prep it for another repair. Poly cures tacky, Epoxy cures smooth and slick. If it was a very small area and you knew you could effect a permanent repair then I would use the epoxy.

Quote
- but not everything sticks well to epoxy.

You should add the word cured between to & epoxy.

Including Epoxy. <img src=

alt=

/> back at ya

If I was going to do the repair I would use Vinyl Ester.


 
Posted : August 10, 2006 7:54 pm
(@Anonymous 37755)
Posts: 772
 

If this is like

GIT-ROT

way down in the fine print is a notice something like

do do mix if above 90F, mixture will boil

They are not kidding and the scalding hot liquid sticks to you when it boils

chill both components down to about 45F if it's above 90F where you are.


 
Posted : August 11, 2006 1:01 pm
PTP
 PTP
(@CaptainPP)
Posts: 2684
Captain Registered
 
Quote
If this is like

GIT-ROT

way down in the fine print is a notice something like

do do mix if above 90F, mixture will boil

They are not kidding and the scalding hot liquid sticks to you when it boils

chill both components down to about 45F if it's above 90F where you are.

I was using some epoxy in an attempt to repair a friend's sunfish and mixed up some epoxy in 90-95 degree heat in a plastic container and it got so hot I couldn't hold it anymore.


 
Posted : August 13, 2006 7:07 pm
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