Nacra 5.5 rudders

I replaced the same lines on my 5.2 . It is that simple.

-Rob V.
Panama City
Nacra 5.2

I took the opportunity to eliminate the bungies and went with a pull up / pull down system. I much prefer the ability to lock the rudders at any setting in between all the way up and all the way down.
Good luck,
Greg

Bullswan

which system did you use?

Thanks for the suggestions. Did one rudder last night. Simple, although lesson learned, always recheck the precut lengths before installing. Guess the cordage person decided to be a bit generous.

Sail fast, Tom G

I got rid of the bungie cords and use two pull cord lines one to pull the rudders down and one to pull the rudders up. I used two Ronstan Cleats so that I can adjust the amount of UP or the amount of DOWN I want and it stays there. I also got rid of the slop in the tiller/tie bar connection by using tie-rod ends instead of the existing connectors. I got the idea from a prior posting. Can't take credit for what I stole!!! <img src=

alt=

/>

Greg

Guess it was me, I posted a picture with the tie-rods about a year ago, still works perfect for me. Nice to see that you use them as well!!

Ken, for those of us who did not see your tie-rod ends. Could you enlighten further? I added Hobie 20 connectors to my H17 and they worked rather well.

Just finished refurbishing my rudders and they work like a dream. I added Hobie connector bushings in each of the pin connector points and basically eliminated all of the connector looseness.

Rudder bushings are next.

Sail fast, Tom G

I'm sorry Ken for not giving you the credit directly but I did use your suggestion from last year and I love it. I didn't use the control lever on the rudder arms you designed. Instead I went with two simple Ronstan Cleats to control up and down of the rudders.

no problem <img src=

alt=

/> for the others: I fill try to find the pictures and repost them

Here is one of the pictures.... I saved it.

Woaaa, now that is industrial strength! Thanks for the pic post bullswan.

Sail fast, Tom G

found the other pictures

another

last one

I remember that now...I really like that flip lever you came up with...now if you can just figure out how to make it work the opposite direction and be able to adjust the height of the line as it turns toward the pivot arm so you can infinitely adjust the amount of pressure required for release...!

Here's a thought...use a couple of those harken micro-through hull sheaves running part of the line internal to the rudder arm...The black standoff on top of the arm could be adjustable to control the angle of the line leading to the flip lever allowing you to really dial in the amount of pressure required to automatically release the rudder from a ground impact (or fish).

Here is my version.

Number 2 picture...

Greg, your tiller arm looks like it's pointed in the wrong direction. Looks like you might of swapped the castings.

Man you are good!!!
I only put it on that side of the boat for picture purposes... Good eye!

You had me worried for a moment. <img src=

alt=

/>

I agree. That's why you needed the long extension in the crossbar that's visable in your photo.

Anti-Ackerman steering? <img src=

alt=

/>

Thisw is an old factory version off my Hydra 16.

Another try.

Like your idea as well. Please keep in mind that the intention is to both lower and raise with the one arm [see the second line on the picture-lower on the arm-other side]and and it can be converted back to the original system without any damage [as safety when making this system up]. When sailing on to the beach I normaly release the arm from the black

clamp

[not sure if this is correct English]and pull forward to raise the rudder.

The

pull forward

is not realy needed, the rudder will be raised gently by the beach.

If the rudder is in lowered position it

sticks

there due to the fact that the arm is over it's turning point [line attachment is slightly lower then rotation point - bottom of arm] The attachment point of the both lines are very importent!! this took the most experimenting to figure this out.

If something hits the rudder when in lower position and in clamp, the rudder will come up if the resistance of the both the clamp and the

dead point

is overcome.

At the beach I keep the rudders

up

with a little bungee

o-ring

that is near the tie-rod

It is a bit of long description but I hope it is somewhat clear.