Can anyone direct me to a site or periodical that could give instruction on how to effectively use a screacher and/or spinnaker on a Tri? I have Rick's book and it is the best, but I need something one or two steps more advanced. Thanks in advance, Phil, Dragonfly 25C, Scarborough, Maine
The Hooter or reacher has different effects on differently weighted boats.
For example, if you have a very light boat, the Hooter works very well on almost any point of sail. One light cats (in this case the Nacra 6.0NA) I have successfully gone to weather higher and faster than stock boats in light winds. Once the wind gets to the point that you need to single trap, it begins to start losing its usefulness. At double trap, you are definitely better off dousing the Hooter and sailing Jib and main.
On reaches in all conditions it is much faster on lighter boats -- until you can no longer hold the boat down.
On lighter boats while sailing downwind, it is very fast and if you sail ala
wild thing
it is as fast or faster than big-shouldered spinnakers.
Still a pretty light boat, the F25C (carbon trimaran) pretty well does all the same things as the Nacra, except for downwind -- it was definitely much faster with a full spinnaker.
Now, with all that said, let's address heavier boats, i.e., Corsair's F27. You can pretty much throw out all the above -- it only works on reaches. When others are trying to go higher than the normal 45-degree downwind angle, they start to get more side drag than forward thrust -- too much fullness. On the other hand, the Hooter is flatter and can handle reaches with much more efficiency.
So, the moral of the story? Hooters really work on nearly all points of sail on lighter boats, while on heavier boats their effectiveness seems to be limited to reaches.
Some tricks:
* For furling on most boats I use a 1:2 ratio retriever line. In other words, I run small, strong retriever line from the furler drum to a small turning block and back to dead end it on the shackle below the drum. Then a larger, more comfortable line runs from the turning block, through a cleat to the crewman in the ****. While at first it pulls a bit harder, once started the crew can pull in the retriever line twice as fast as a direct line -- for each foot pulled, two feet of furler line is brought in.
If you use a 1:1 purchase you will be dealing with small, hard to handle line, and will need to pull in twice as much line to get the same effect, and it will be slower.
*It is suggested that the furler drum have a fairlead so the retriever line does not foul in or outside the drum.
* If using the Hooter to weather, you may want to furl it half way during the tack -- sort of like raising a window shade and then bringing it right back down.
Lots more, but I am running out of time.
Good luck,
Rick White