Trailex double stack trailer
An ad has been paid and will show up soon in the classifieds, but here is some more information as I know some were looking for stacking trailers lately.
My cats have all run away from home. I am selling my Trailex Double Stack. Stored indoors its entire life. It was set up for an F17 and Mystere 4.3 but you can pick your boat set. You can load the top and bottom separately. Bottom will carry and load an 8-6 wide boat without removing the top boat. As you can see in the pictures it has one set of big foot cradles, one set of double rollers, one set of single rollers and one set of v-bottom guides. There is also a rubber top to carry some extras, like a Hobie kayak. Has a double mast stand, double cat trax carrier, but no double rainbows. Has tongue wheel, bearing buddies, LED lights, and new wheels and tires including spare with just a few hundred miles on them.
The boat and sail box are not included and were sold separately with another trailer.
Price: $1700, new price is just shy of $3000 without the guides, rollers and cradles and cat trax rack.
https:/
Phone 614-579-eight one four five.

wide boat on the bottom and have it still be legal? 102
is the legal limit, 2 inches on each side would put it 4
over the legal limit? no?
There you go getting all technical and stuff...I'm pretty sure he didn't say anything about
legal". <img src="<>/grin.gif" alt="grin" title="grin" height="15" width="15" />
Personally, I'm going to build my next double stack rack this way...my trailer is already wider than the boat and it has never been a problem.
The trailer is titled in Ohio as an original 2000 Trailex 418HC and as such is taxed at that weight. The double stack kit is 2006. Tires and rims are 2009. I no longer own a cat so I am not attending any regattas. Like a motorhome with an awning hanging off the side, only the uprights exceed the 8-6" width on the back. The convenience is absolutely worth the very remote risk.
As far as capacity, some have asked on the phone... This is best suited for a 17-18 on the bottom and something lighter on the top such as an F16, H16, H14 or M4.3. Some have towed two F17's on this same design without issues. Might need to add stronger set of leaf springs for that.
I bought the trailer from Mike. Thanks Mike!
Only problem is a Hobie 16 won't fit on the bottom. The top crossbar is too short for the front beam of the H16 to fit underneath. This is only a problem for the rear trailer crossbar because the front beam doesn't actually go under the front trailer crossbar.
I need about 4 inches to make it work.
My ideas so far:
1)move the rear trailer uprights to the top of the bottom rear trailer crossbars, instead of the sides - about 2.5 inches
2)place a short extrusion piece between the crossbars to raise the bar up another 2.5"
the double rollers are the same height as the regular rollers so there isn't any height savings there - the cradles are even taller
I could load the boat on the trailer without the rollers and some carpet on the aluminum but thats a hassle.
Any thoughts? I'm stumped short of ordering longer pieces from trailex ($$).
Pictures: https:/
This is an option- uninstall the rear section for the majority of the time and only install when double stacking. It isn't possible to only remove the rear crossbar though because it gives support to the two rear uprights and the long bar that goes from front to rear.
But....it would be great if I could come up with a way to not have to take apart the trailer just to use the double stack.
Thought about that too, but won't it stick out the back too much?
Maybe move the rear crossbar and all of the associated uprights forward on the trailer, thus allowing the boat to sit further forward on the trailer? Then load it backwards.
This would shorten the distance between rollers/cradles. Any issues with that? Too short and you lose stability, right?
I've tried putting the boat backwards on a trailer before:
http:/
Idea 1 will not make a difference. The upper cross bar supports are attached to the same cross members as the rollers.
The only options I see are taking the upper rear cross support off load trailer and reattach. The advantage of this is that you can step the mast while the boat is on the trailer.
or
Contact Trailex and see if you can purchase longer supports for the double stack.
or
Make your own extensions.
Zach, maybe you can find some aluminum channel that will slide into the upright supports. Attach the crossbars to the new channel and slide into top of uprights. Drill a hole through the uprights and new channel for a keeper pin. Two positions, one down all the way, and one up high enough to allow the H16 to go underneath. The new channel would not really carry any load, just be there to retain the top rack when you slide it up.
P.S. Check to see if that aluminum used for the cat trax rack will fit inside the uprights... That is a standard aluminum extrusion used in shop tool setup. It is available from McMaster Carr, or maybe a local industrial tool supplier.
http:/
Mike
P.S. Check to see if that aluminum used for the cat trax rack will fit inside the uprights... That is a standard aluminum extrusion used in shop tool setup. It is available from McMaster Carr, or maybe a local industrial tool supplier.
http:/
Mike
I like this idea! I'll see what I can find. Thanks Mike!
I have two cats at the moment and its killing me not being able to easily use the bottom rack of the trailex.
P.S. Check to see if that aluminum used for the cat trax rack will fit inside the uprights... That is a standard aluminum extrusion used in shop tool setup. It is available from McMaster Carr, or maybe a local industrial tool supplier.
http:/
Mike
I like this idea! I'll see what I can find. Thanks Mike!
I have two cats at the moment and its killing me not being able to easily use the bottom rack of the trailex.
Went out and tried the extrusions from the cat trax rack and they just barely don't fit inside the rear posts. Maybe they will fit if I sand them down...
I'm going to shop around for some standard square aluminum tubing around here and see what I can make fit.
I think I found a square aluminum tube that will work. I'll install it this weekend.
Here are some pictures:
I lifted the offending crossbar up just to see how much height I need. I need an inch or two more than this.![[Linked Image]](http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e68/zaxtvnz/null_zpsd538251b.jpg)
And then I moved the extrusion that connects the front and rear crossbars slightly off-center. This will keep it out of the way of the H16 mast cup.
looking at the pic where you have the bar held up...I'm thinking that the simple solution is to make four new splice plates (that triangle shaped piece) that are taller and double them up front and rear of each bar to give it even support (now that it's not sitting on the lower upright). That shouldn't be expensive. It might not be just a simple triangle anymore (to avoid too large of a triangle that gets in the way) ... but, easy peasy.
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