trapeze adjustment
Hey guys,
Working on getting the trapeze wires adjusted right on my P19. Is there a good way to do this, like should the ring be able to touch a certain part of the boat or should I adjust it so I can trapeze out so I am planar with the trampoline?
Thanks,
Pete
Your height is determined by a lot of things. First, how comfortable are you on the wire? Second, what is the weather like (wind/waves)?
Typical setting for me is with the hoop just able to touch the deck at the bungie. I move it up in waves and light air and down for big air and moving aft downwind.

Not sure if you mean you have an adjustable trap system, or you just want to have your trap lines and stop set correctly.
Since there are many variables, (as mentioned above) an adjustable system works VERY well. in heavy air, when i need to hike more... i sit very low on the wire. In light air (or big waves) i sit higher. And VERY often, i adjust my position while on the wire as needed. If i am low, and see a big wave comming, i just pull the adjuster in and move up to avoid being soaked...
The system on it now isn't adjustable, it just has the ball on the line which acts as a stop. I know they aren't adjust correctly now as I have to half standup to even hook the harness in. Sounds like I may try to have it so the hoop touches the deck and then go from there. Lots of good info, thanks guys
Gotcha.
I would think that is a good place to start. you can test it out on the beach when you get your mast up. Have someone sit on the other hull of your boat (as to not tip it).
I would suggest you be able to clip on and off while sitting on the tramp but when out on the wire, keep it adjusted so your butt slightly above the deck as a starting point.
You say you have a ball as a stop? If this is held in place with a knot, I would suggest the little black stops as they are easly adjusted while on the fly. They can't cost more than a few bucks. Althoug the Tornado guys simply tie a knot to save the weight of the plastic stop (1.5 gram?, lol)

The P19 trap adjustment is NOT adjustable on the fly. It's a simple wrap-around rope lock that stops on the dogbone.
'ufcsailor19' - You have one of two options: Keep the existing stock system and before leaving the beach, both you and your crew go out on the wire on both sides. Adjust the length of the trap lines on the rope lock so that you're in line with the trampoline and crossbars. You can also use some electrical tape around the lines on the plastic blocks so that the length of the line doesn't slip. Or you can purchase a trapeze length adjustor (hi-lo) such as: http:/
I have the stock system and the rear ones are set for my personal height. The front ones we adjust on the beach before sailing depending on who's crewing the boat.
The easiest adjustment to use is the old fashioned dogbone style trap rings. I keep mine set so the low ring is just at deck level, this works for most conditions, if I need to trap a little higher, just hook to the upper ring. No other adjustments are necessary. I actually removed all the adjustment hardware and line from my trapeze as I rarely used it. Another tip, take the dogbones and coat them in tool-dip, available at any hardware store. Puts a nice protective coat on them to keep them from chipping your teeth or daggerboards when they swing around. Plus you can choose colors to suit. I coated mine almost two years ago, and have not had to redo them since.
I have found the right spot for me is when I'm trapping out to sight though the trapeze ring and line up both decks. If I cant see the lee deck I am too low, and if the ring is above the windward deck, then its too high.
If your sailing well then you should not need to raise your trapeze height in a blow as the windward hull should still be just going through the peaks of the waves.
Makes me work harder on the mainsheet trapezing low as I dont want to be teabagged, its more stable too.
Set my dogbone up on the Mozzie with the upper ring level with the deck at the chainplate. The boat goes into the next gear whenever I can get into the lower ring so I accept the occasional teabag. <img src=
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Darryn
Mozzie
1782
Orrrrr, you could coat your teeth! <img src=
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Would that be called
grillin'
?
A couple of tricks I've done to my P19MX:
I have Trap Loops made of Wire Rope, not
Dogbones
... as some pointed out metal dogbones can cause injuries when they fly around. Very cheap to make.
For stoppers I use the small plastic pieces but I use TWO per trap (back to back) as I've had several break in half while I'm hanging on the trap.
How is your bungie run??? From the line W/ the loop/dogbone down through the hull ... Straight over to the other hull ... through that hull to the line???? You will find you will be fighting the pull of the bungie as you try to trap out at the rear crossbar ... when your crew traps out and tries to get that far aft they will not be able to comfortably do it at all (thats required when you are flying a Chute!!!) So here is the trick install a double Harken Micro or Air block at each corner of the underside if the tramp at the rear crossbar. Run the bungie through the hull back diagonally to the opposite corner ... through the block ... across to the other block ...then diagonally to the other hulland through it as usual. This almost triples the length of the bungie cord and the stretch availible so you can move around fore & aft to a much greater degree.
Now you can enjoy a screaming reach ... The P19 makes pretty rainbows with the bow spray from the leeward hull!!!
Do you have the
origonal
short stock rudder blades ??? If so upgrade to the new rudder blades that are much longer w/ eliptical tips ... or find a set of used P18 blades w/ square tips ... they are also longer. On a screaming reach the bow drives down slightly, the stern rises ... the rudders start running through the disturbed water/wake and loose attachment ... no stearing/helm ... she will go straight as a rocket but you can not turn ... You ned to pop the main slightly to release the pressure and regain stearing.
Enjoy your P19 it is an awesome boat!!!!!
When you are ready for a spin contact me .....
Sail Safe, Sail Flat, Sail Fast
HarryMurphey
P19MX w/spin, #86/CRAC
H18mag, #9458/ Fleet54,Div11
Start off with the trapeze just touching the deck right under where it hangs. This will be good in moderate wind and swell conditions. If you sail flat water you can try down about two inches. If you are not low on the trapeze from the beginning of the learning process you will find it harder to get used to going down to the correct area. That is if you decide to trap high because it is easy. If you are too high and the boat goes over you will find the trapeze will actually pull you over the top. This is a lousy feeling. If you trapeze low you may even be able to sit on the side of the boat and comfortably unhook while making your way to the water to right the boat.
If the sea conditions are really rough they are usually harder on one tack than the other. For example on the West Coast big sea conditions are more pronounced on a starboard tack. In those conditions I will sometimes move the starboard loop up an inch to keep from getting hit by the waves.
Later,
Dan
Thanks for the load of information Murphy. The bungie idea seems pretty good, think I have an understanding of how you are doing it but if you have pics that would be great. The guy who owned the P19 before me installed the bracket on the mast for a spinnaker but thats it. I'd be interested to hear what your setup consist of, although i can only imagine how fast that thing would be.
Dan, yeah i think you are right, thats how i am going to set it up for now. I knew I had them setup wrong, with the ring a foot off of the deck but I didn't have time to adjust it on the water, I just wanted to sail.
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