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That would be the best 50 miles ever!! <img src=
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And its only around 48
tall. CRAZY! Quad turbo 16 cylinder <img src=

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Yeah its a bad butt car! <img src=

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I did know about that. Makes my 8MPG at full chat sound frugal ! Might have to find a race track to see if I could average 8mpg for a full tank !
Nice discussion on global petro-politics, er...I mean towing. <img src=
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I'll go on record as siding with those that think gasoline is under-priced in the US (given the negative societal impacts from it's mass use that don't get factored into it's price). I look at what's happening with cigarette smoking here as a sign of things to come...people are wising up to the fact that there's a huge burden placed on society from it, the cost of which is being put back into the product via increased taxes. The US will come around. Now that
normal
means $2+/gal., dealers can't move large trucks/SUVs to anyone but those that truly need them or can afford not to care. The US auto industry is hurting because most of it's recent sales revenue has come from truck/SUV sales. Change will happen, we'll all become more responsible one way or another. <img src=
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As for towing, I've been driving Subaru's since the '80's (GL, Legacy, Impreza). They've all towed the Sunfish we just sold without issue, and I expect the same for the cat we'll be getting this winter/spring. You take a hit on the full-time AWD in terms of MPG, but they're not horrible, and they're as reliable as the work-day is long. Now that our daughter's graduated from college, we're once more considering a new car...Forester most likely, maybe an Outback for the H6.
There's about a 5 point difference. Most US pumps will say something like
(R+M)/2 Method
. The rest of the world just uses R. M is a more strenuous test, usually is about 10 points lower than R, so the average is about 5 points less. So 90 in the US would be sold as ~95 everywhere else. It's not a direct match though.

there is a common misnomer that higher octane = higher performance or is somehow a 'cleaner' fuel. If your engine was designed to run a high octane fuel then you should. However, if your engine was designed to run a minimum of 87 octane, you'll not see much difference going to a higher 95 or even 120 (you could actually see a decrease in performance).
There's a point at which under so much heat and pressure inside an engine the fuel vapor will ignite without the presence of a spark (like in a diesel engine). Higher octane fuels auto-ignite at higher pressure and temperature levels than lower octane fuels allowing engine designers to design in higher compression ratios (or use turbos and superchargers). Long piston strokes, turbos, or superchargers cram more fuel/air into an engine resulting in higher compression and additional power but require a higher octane fuel to prevent the fuel vapor from igniting before th e spark plug lights it up resulting in
knock
- a dangerous condition that can do substantial damage inside the engine if left unchecked (most modern cars have knock-sensors that detect this condition and will try to compensate by adjusting the air/fuel ratio).
There's a point at which under so much heat and pressure inside an engine the fuel vapor will ignite without the presence of a spark (like in a diesel engine). Higher octane fuels auto-ignite at higher pressure and temperature levels than lower octane fuels allowing engine designers to design in higher compression ratios (or use turbos and superchargers). Long piston strokes, turbos, or superchargers cram more fuel/air into an engine resulting in higher compression and additional power but require a higher octane fuel to prevent the fuel vapor from igniting before th e spark plug lights it up resulting in
knock
- a dangerous condition that can do substantial damage inside the engine if left unchecked (most modern cars have knock-sensors that detect this condition and will try to compensate by adjusting the air/fuel ratio).
I ran the Custom Supreme in a '63 Ford 427 with 13.5 to 1 compression. You really could see the gas gauge move. <img src=
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When I was in the US, I towed my N60 with a Nisan Sentra. Did fine up to 60mph (100Km/h), but milage when from 40mpg to 20mpg and windage from trucks meant I could never pass anything at any speed. As important as the car, is the trailer-- get a good quality one, preferably light-- I am in love with Trailex. It will compensate for 30+hp and an extra 800lbs (400kg) of car size.
Eric mentioned European diesels. I now now with a Mazda6 wagon. 140-160km (90-100mph) with a well strapped down A-cat is no problem. Fuel consumption is still above 25mpg even at that speed. 2/3 of all European cars sold are now diesels. They get 30% better mileage, just as quiet (except perhaps a slight difference at idle), start just as easy; however, they have so much more torque that you never need to shift to stay in the power. This is not the same diesel technology offered in VWs in the USA or found in even the newest Dodge-Cummings. As I understand the problem was sulfer found in US Diesel fuel-- this would destroy the modern Euro direct injection diesels. The result, USA diesels had to use only the old technology. About 1 year ago, the US forced the fuel companies to remove this sulfer-- now you should be starting to get them. I highly recommend trying one when they start showing up in dealers.
Matt
Some
transportation
rigs from our Tornado brothers in Siberia.
http:/
http:/
I think they got the right idea, just get there and sail what you got <img src=
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Currently I tow the Mystere 6.0 on it's steel trailer with a 2005 Toyota Corolla that drives from the front with a 1.8 liter engine. Previously I used a 1998 Subaru Legacy L that had an All Wheel Drive 2.2 liter engine.
While I do miss the traction of the AWD car, the 1.8 liter Toyota is far more powerful, has way better fuel economy, and has far less mechanical problems than did the Subaru.
Before the Legacy, I owned another Legacy. Before that I had a 1.8 liter turbo charged Subaru GL wagon. Nothing has been as good as the Toyota for towing.
When the Toyota was new, the cheap tires had trouble on wet surfaces. New tires have taken care of that problem.
I'll miss my AWD when I need to go snow skiing. 'Till then, I have enjoyed the trouble free service of the Toyota.
GARY
(solved the infamous P.O.S. Subaru Hesitation problem)
Didn't end up with a Mazda 3...and it's probably unlikely that I'll be towing anything with it, but here's our new regatta-mobile when sailing on OPBs. Would have loved to have found one with a TDI engine - but Bonnie wasn't that keen on it and they are pretty scarce used. As it is, 24City / 30 Hwy is reasonable for this 2L gas engine and while it's built for smaller people (like we are), it's got plenty of room for gear and stuff.
My tow vehicle is a 1992 Jeep Wrangler, a few mods, 145,000 miles. A little bad on the MPG and a little loud... But I can put the cat right on the beach where other vehicles have to drop it off at the road.
<img src="[image]http:/
It has already started, you just got married about a week ago and now you are having to buy a new car to go to regattas.
Yeah, I know. Married two weeks and already I've sold two project-cars, my pristine classic sports car is on the 'for sale' block, and I'm building a storage building so we can reduce ourselves to a truck and a car and for the first time in about 7 years actually pull through both sides of our pull-through carport (this has actually been in motion for about a year). The good news is that I still have all the regattas on the schedule for next year, three boats (soon to be four temporarily), and an RV in the backyard.
It has already started, you just got married about a week ago and now you are having to buy a new car to go to regattas.
Yeah, I know. Married two weeks and already I've sold two project-cars, my pristine classic sports car is on the 'for sale' block, and I'm building a storage building so we can reduce ourselves to a truck and a car and for the first time in about 7 years actually pull through both sides of our pull-through carport (this has actually been in motion for about a year). The good news is that I still have all the regattas on the schedule for next year, three boats (soon to be four temporarily), and an RV in the backyard.
Tell us about the pristine classic sports car...
It's a '85 RX7 GSL-SE. This was the last year of this body style and the GSL-SE was only offered in the RX7 line for two years - '84 and '85. There aren't many of them still around. It was the first model that Mazda put the new bigger 13B rotary engine in, had four wheel disk brakes, and came equipped with a posi-track rear end. For the fans of the 1st generation Mazda RX7, this is the car to have. This one happens to be a particularly exceptional specimen.
![[Linked Image]](http://www.teamseacats.com/jake/rx/DSC06540_640.jpg)
![[Linked Image]](http://www.teamseacats.com/jake/rx/DSC06545_640.jpg)
Jake, All these years I've thought you and Bonnie were already married! Congrats to you lad! The car looks very much like the one my friend bought. His is that ugly gold/bronze. I like the white better. I don't know if his is quite the same. I'll have to ask again. I had a '67 Pontiac Lemans with a 3 spd Hurst, and positrac. I was amazed driving it with bald tires in the snow. I got where I wanted to go! What exactly is positrac? All the best to you and the lovely Tybee reporter. Brian
Short answer about positrac... It is a limited slip differential on the rear wheels. On regular rear wheel drive cars the wheel with the least amount of resistance gets all of the power. If you are watching a car on a slick road you will notice that one only one tire breaks loose. With positrac both rear tires would break loose.
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