Beam Reach Traveler Position

Travel the main all the way out and adjust the main sail using the telltales.

Ease the traveler as much as you need to keep the boat on its feet. Watch the lee bow and ease accordingly. If it is not to windy there is no problem at sailing centered. you may start to fly a hull (and probably like it! 😉 If you are trying to go fast you start to ease the sheet to twist off the main and hike/trap the boat flat.

Oh yeah, as the wind increases, get in the back of the bus. It is not uncommon to be trapped out on the back of the hull to keep the bows up.

I would say that there is no need to put it all the way out unless it is blowing the squirrels outta the trees and you are unable to trap.

This being said remember to also move your jib traveler out along with the main to keep the slot open.

Practice and you will begin to see how hard you can drive the boat.

I don't dump traveler unless I'm way over powered on a reach. If its that windy you want to first crank the downhaul, the outhaul (even though it doesn't do much) and go block to block to flatten the sail as much as possible. Since I started doing a fair amount of reggatta's I don't go on a broad reach too much anymore. I'm always trying to point as high as I can, and keep boat speed up when going down wind as much as possible.

Let's define a beam reach as 90 degrees to the wind and a broad reach as 135 degrees off the wind.

For fun, somewhere in between those two points is what used to be referred to as the

screaming

reach. <img src=

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/> I keep the traveller around the hiking strap and saw the main sheet, trying not to make any fast tiller movements and a close eye on the lee bow.

Downwind racing is at or below a broad reach and I leave the traveller in about the same position with the sheets eased to allow the top of the sail to open up to the wind coming from behind. When a puff comes, fall off and ride it out going deep towards that lee (C) mark, head up for the next one or jibe and keep riding the first one (if it's the right direction to go on the course).

In both cases we adjust the jib traveller and sheet tension so it's shape mimics the Main.

Some guys do sheet tight and steer the boat more downwind, we like to use the sheets as well. Whatever you and your crew become comfortable with, unless the other guy is hammering you, then you try what they're doing.

whats a beam reach? my downwind trim is the wind indicator perpendicular to the centerline of the boat (technically a beam reach), travellers half way out, cunningham loose and telltales flowing or just lifting on the leeward side. the main boom is just outside the leeward corner casting, tip of leeward hull 2

above wl in 'average' conditions 8-12 kn winds. this is usually my best vmg tacking downwind. BUT i'm guessing by beam reach you mean perpendicular to the actual wind direction, not the apparent wind. so how do you know, while sailing, what the actual wind direction is? flags on shore? wave action? trim would be for what is considered 'close reaching' on slower boats- travellers eased slightly, mainsheet, cunningham and jib sheet pretty tight, all telltales streaming, and the tip of the leeward hull 2

above wl

Beam reach...meaning perpendicular to actual wind direction as in the diagram below:

What are those funny looking single hull things? Here is a chart with cats!

How did the cat on a run get two main sails? <img src=

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I saw that diagram, but it doesn't have a beam reach on it so I didn't use it. <img src=

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Assuming you are on a H16, a beam reach should be a foot up from the end of the track and the jib out all the way in single trap winds. The reason for the traveler up is the jib will backwind the mainsail. As the air increases or decreases, travel the main full outboard. If backwinding does occur, travel the main back in or lower your steered heading. So, if you travel the main out follow suit with the jib. H16 guys; do I have that correct?
Bob <img src=

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Bob,
I disagree <img src=

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/>. What you describe might be appropriate for the

medium reach

but I think is travelled too far out for a beam reach (90 degrees true to point of sail). Assuming single trap conditions, on a beam reach the apparent wind is still well forward of 90 degrees. IMHO this would dictate a traveller close to center, say 4 to 12 inches from center, and the main trimmed appropriately, say cracked off about 6 inches from the close hauled position. Travel the jib about one third of the way out.

Our

dirty secret

on the H16 is that the beam reach is prime pitch pole territory especially in higher winds and waves. While larger boats can power up and go, the H16 crew has to mind that leeward hull. On a reach, over trimming the jib and therefore back winding the main is an effective, though not ideal, means of depowering.

Chris

I thought the broad reach was ideal pitch pole territory. <img src=

alt=

/> If the H16 can't power up on a beam reach, what point of sail has the greatest speed....close reach?

So basically, the traveler needs to be somewhat out and sails not trimmed for max power on a beam reach ?

I believe a beam reach is the fastest heading. The problem with pitch poling on a beam reach is that it happens so fast. The only defense is to release the main and often that can't happen quick enough.

Traveller and sails should be trimmed to keep the tell tales flowing (assuming no problem with overpowering). Since wind and wave conditions are different every time we sail, there is no one-size-fits answer, just guidelines.