hobie 16 tuning guide

It's interesting that he says you should adjust the jib halyard for the conditions but he never moves it.

I was suprised by. Never sit on oppisite sides of the boat with any wind at all.I always found in flat water having the crew leward and forward,really depressed the leward hull and seemed to help with pointing.Then again I have never won a major regatta,never mind the worlds.

Thanks for the great tips, I will try to incorporate them into my sailing and set-up. I have just one comment though. I read in Boat Tuning For Speed, that polishing hulls and making them smooth makes water bead, and beading causes drag because of surface tention. They even suggested that the worlds fastest dingy sailors sanded there hull paint with 800 and 1200 grid wet sand paper so that a layer of water stuck to the hulls and that the tention between water on water was far less than water on air. It had to do with bubbles of air caused by beading and drag and blah blah blah, however, I have always found that it worked really well, and saved me spending huge hours buffing my hulls. Just my $.02. What are your thoughts?

there was a very interesting article in 'on the wire' currently defunct ezine about polish, wax, etc. the author , an engineer, argued convincingly that boat wax/ polishes are better than sanded surfaces. sounded good to me! some waxes protect the hull from uv and help keep the surface clean. besides, one blown tack or layline overstood is much more costly than surface prep. just make sure your bottom is clean and wax wont hurt.