old 16 project

Where did you get the clear port covers?

Mike,
Should be West Marine. Check for their website.

Eric

Looks like you did a great job on it! I look forward to the reports on your methods of work.
Jack

Hi All,
The sailtube was made from 14

diameter, smooth-wall duct from a local A/C contractor. The endcaps were also obtained there. Banding to secure the tube is common 1/2

strap banding used in many warehouses. Steel rivets secure all the hardware. I used portions of a 6

hose clamp (for dryer duct) to fasten the banding to the clamps. (I now recommend using a heavier gauge clamp just for piece of mind - the metal in the current clamps is

soft

). The brackets I had bent-up in our sheet steel press at work. I allowed about 2

clearance for the tube diameter and used a metal-blade scroll saw to make the relief cut. I also used edge dressing from a local electrical supply shop so the bracket edge would not chew into the tube. Brackets are fastened to the trailer with (2) 1/4

diameter bolts each. I mounted the hatch hinge off-horizontal so the hatch would hang out of the way when I'm moving items in and out. The 14

diameter allows me to store the mainsail, jib, paddle, rudders w/tillers, tiller cross-bar, extra life jackets and other collateral gear. The hatch is self-draining by fit. There is plenty of clearance between the tube and the boat. The whole assembly is rigid during travel and should prove durable over time. I expect some oxidation but for me that's OK. You might want to cover the rivet tips inside with some type of plastic/rubber cap at the hinge and lock bracket to avoid marring any items inside whilst moving them in and out. This is a fairly general description, for details please contact me at skipper08022000 at yahoo dot com. In the message to follow I'll discuss the re-paint portion of the project.

Cheers,
Eric

Eric,

Very beautiful restoration!

I restored a 1977 Hobie 16 last season: the one thing I am not content with is how I put in the ports. Unfortunately, they are leaking. Yours looks very smooth and solid. Can you give us a description how you mounted them?

Thank you in advance.

H77

H77,
Thanks for your message.

The deck plate (or inspection ports) were purchased from

West Marine

, (www.westmarine.com). The instructions called for a 6-1/2

rough opening; so I routed my old openings to the appropriate fit. These plate do not have a flange surface which is designed for a curved hull mount so I used marine grade white silicon to form, seal, and fill the gap. Hobie hulls have an inner and outer surface of fiberglass with foam in between. I applied the silicon then fitted the port. I used a wetted finger to form the fillet between the flange and the hull; this turned-out OK as you can see in the picture. After the silicon had dried I used the correct drill size to open bolt holes through the sealant. I was careful not to disturb the silicon's integrity. The through-hull mounting bolts will not provide much of a structural benefit as they would just crush the foam as the nut/bolt is tightened. I used SS parts with a 5/8

plate washer and a nut with a nylon thread lock. I tightened them just enough to start compression on the hull. After installation was complete, I greased the o-ring and the port-cover threads with petroleum jelly per the instructions. The whole assembly feels solid and should provide many seasons of service. I plan to add port bags (also available from West Marine), in the future. I hope this was helpful.

Cheers,

Eric

Eric,

Thank you for the quick and elaborate reply. So, the secret is in the shaping of the silicon. Will redo the ports following your advice. I appreciate it!

H77

Hello All,
West Marine Seagloss Single-part Polyurethane Topside Paint was used in the re-finish. Sand paper grit sequence was: 80, 120, 180, 220 and then a wet-sand 600. Between grit changes were find-and-fill actions for scratches, dings, etc. that were not found before. Wipe-downs were accomplished with tack-cloths after major sanding events and usually after a wash down with mild dish soap. I avoided touching the hull surface with bare hands as much as possible. This paint was applied via spray gun (high volume/low pressure) using my small compressor. The primer was XIM Sealer/Bonder 400 White chosen for it's single-componency and ability to shoot right out of the container. I added about 10% spraying thinner to the topside paint for three coats. 600 grit wet sanding preceeded the final coat. (Note: I did use a two-part glazing compound that complimented the primer but do not readily remember the item information at the time of this post). Milestone pictures can be added to this post if requested. I'll follow-up with the glazing info soon.

Cheers,
Eric

i don't see any pics...is there an attachment or file somewhere? <img src=

alt=

/>

Dannyb9,
I presume that you've scrolled above as the pics are part of this thread, otherwise, I can email as desired.
Cheers,
Eric

Hello All,
The 2-part glazing compound I used was Evercoat Maxum (product number 100242). It is well-worth the cost (~$20.00) and flexible in its cure time depending on the amount of hardener used. It sands extremely well and was compatible with the paint and primer I chose to use. I enthusiastically recommend it.

I hope all the previous information was beneficial.

Cheers,

Eric

I am planning to install deck plates. Is forward of the front pylons the best location? I was thinking beteen the pylons would make sense. Any suggestions?

First question is why do you want to install them. If it's for storage then between the pylons will work. If it's for repair work on the front pylon or a delaminated deck then you're probably looking at forward of the pylon.

Fortunately I have nothing to repair other than the keels.

Mainly I want to dry the hulls out. I did have probably a couple of gallons in there for maybe a month. I was planning on adding the ports and putting those cups of desiccant that West and Home Depot sell to really dry it and then keep it dry.

Where's the best between the Pylon location to put the ports? I was thinking center or towards the rear pylon.

I'd stay as far from where the stays attach to the hulls as possible.

So towards the rear pylon might make sense then? I am also wondering why there is no talk about reinforcements when cutting holes in the boat. I don't think the inspection port has great structural qualities. I was thinking about reinforcing the ring from the inside with fiberglass sheet.

I recently replaced thru hulls on a 23 footer and the seacocks are backed with 1/2" marine plywood blocks. I think marine plywood will ultimately rot inside a cat hull, even if it's sealed. An easier route maybe is to get in inside mounting ring for the port and epoxy it into place. Of course the problem is getting it inside the hull. I was just going to cut it in one spot.

Reinforcement can't hurt.

I installed ports in front of the front pylon on my 25 year old H16 and didn't have any trouble at all. I cut the hole with a router and straight 1/4" bit. I sealed the exposed edge with a little epoxy and then installed the ports using a good grade of silicone caulking. I ended up not even installing the screws to hold it in place. That was 5 years ago and it's still as solid as the day it was installed. Here's a photo of the portion of the hull that was removed.