paint options and age id.

I'm not a big fan of painting boats. Adds a lot of weight.

I like to fix the gel coat if it needs it and then use a little rubbing compound to make it look good again. Bottom jobs are a way of life with these boats if you beach them. If any fibers are coming through you need to add a layer or two of glass cloth to build it back up.

cheers
Bill

Serial numbers are etched into the stern (since the mid 70's) and the last two digits are the year of manufacture.

cheers
Bill

exactly where on the stern?
where is the serial # on pre 1970 boats?
my boat may be a very early model, as it sat untouched in a friends yard, for what he says was over 35 years that hes lived there, and was there when he bought the house.
thanks
jason
p.s. the only etched or numbers whatsoever on the boat aside from the corner casting position markers, is the # 4923 found on the outer side of the foreward pylons , etched in,
i just spent about 15 min searching for a number on the stern, nothing that i could find

this gelcoat is beyond repair, and weight isnt really a problem with me, as im only using this boat for rec sailing.
so what would be my best bet?
i found some really hard aerosol appliance epoxy thats hard as hell but im curious if it will ahere well to the gelcoat.
im looking for a very glossy hard white finish, preferrably low cost.
thanks for the info
jason

Adding paint to boats adds no more weight than the buckets you put on it. I used less than a gallon total on mine... I'd wager to say that it weights less than 5 pounds, if that.

If the boat is really early 70's the identifying info os on one of the forward pylons. I don't if it follows the newer boat convention. On newer boats, the idntifying number is on the transom, right side (I think), and is something like CCM0000X000, where the CCM is Coast Cat Manufacturing, the four zeros are the serial number, the X is a letter that denotes the type of boat (H16, 18, etc.) and the last three zeros denote the year of manufacture and model year. The last two are the model year and the first one is the year of manufacture. See discussion in the Open Forum.

http://www.catsailor.com/forums/sho... ew=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1

I also wasn't concerned with extra weight and painted my hulls with Interlux brightsides. You can buy it by the quart in lots of colors at any boat store. I used a roller an brush and the finish is smooth, like glass. I used 2 quarts, thined by 10% as per interlux specifications (just doing the bottoms fo both hulls, not the tops). Going into my second season with them painted with no color fading and only a little bit of wear on the bottoms from beaching. Hope this helps, andrew

Brightsides sprayed on after two coats primer and lots of sanding

An interesting choice of color for an N.C. State boat:-)

Sam: Red doesn't go with my sails

4923
those are the numbers etched onto the foreward pylons,
so how do i find out my boats year????
i was told it sat in someones yard for at least 35 years, so....
thanks
jason

I'd have serious reservations about rigging that boat and taking it on the water without having an expert check it out first.

im no expert but ive spent literally 100's of hours checking over every detail of this boat, checking fiberglass for delam, alum for stress signs, etc etc. and aside from one seam delam on left foreward hull at the deck/hull seam, fiberglass is in great condition, anyway, where i sail, if you sink, you can pretty much in every spot of the bay, stand up and walk back to the beach, lol.
i live in an area thats just pure shallow bay
peace
jason

p.s. boats already rigged, just refinishing the hull and frame,
so can someone answer me and tell me how old my boat is?
or how to find out?
thanks
jason

Alright... just making sure

I am going to reglass my keels and paint my hulls this summer and was wonderind if those that have done this before removed the hulls from the crossbars? I am going with Brightsides as well. Jay

Hello,
When I did my Prindle 18, I completely dissembled it. Makes for much easier work. Wetsanding has to be easier this way.

Good luck with your project,
Jack