Hi guys. I recently bought new side stays for my H16. I looked the lengths up on the net just to make sure I got them made up right. Now I've heard that there are two specified lengths: normal and racing. The ones I have are too long and I suspect they are the reason I can't point as high as others. I do have them in the bottom hole of the adjuster side chain plate. Our combined crew weight is just under 300pounds(135kg), so i'd like to get maximux rake as we are always at the back of the boat to keep the leeward hull out. With these side stays I can only get the blocks about 6 inches apart before the sail hooks. What is the best way to work out the correct length(or is there a standard racing length that is class legal) to use, taking our weight into consideration, to improve our pointing and leeward hull problem. I've done a search..and didn't find too much on the exact lengths, sorry if this has already been covered..
As far as I am aware, there aren't "normal" and "racing" stay lengths. Just "old" and "new." The newer ones have shorter shrouds and a longer forestay than the older ones; but if you bought new ones recently then they'd be the "new" length. They might seem too long, however, if you still have the old, shorter forestay. 
Edit: That sounds weird to me. If you have short shrouds all around then it seems like you'd feel like things were too short... where/how does your forestay attach to the bridle?
The forestay may be a tad short, but i've got some chain plates atatched where the bridles meet to allow for extra length, which the forestay conects to. So I don't think the forestay length is the problem...more the actual length of the shrouds..I checked the recommemded legths on the hobie site-a pdf with wire lengths, and it gave a length of 5.8m (19.03ft). Is this the correct length? Is it class legal to make a shroud length to suit yourself...with our light weight, I was considering going a little shorter than 'typical' to help with the lee bow, and pointing? Any advice would be appreciated...Thanks
i removed the 'adjuster side chain plates' and shackled the shrouds directly to the side stay bolt to 'shorten' my shrouds
Thought of that..and it is class legal, but I thought, since I will have them cut and re-crimmed, I may as well find out what the proper length is..Did you do that to increase your rake (for weight, pointing reason) or beacuse the shrouds were just too long?
yes i did it to achieve block to block sheeting without excess side to side 'slop' in the rig. i have an older (81) boat, it works for me : )
It is not class legal to remove the twist toggle below the shroud adjuster. This peice acts as a universal joint and reduces bend forces on the anchor pins.
It may not be legal to remove the twist toggle, however can you remove the chain plate entirely and shackle directly to the toggle???
Matt G
Hobie 16 SN#1960
Burbank CA
Thanks for all the advise..
It seems there is a limit on the rake issue..I found that with my mast to far back..I could get block to block too easy (which I assume will not be the best thing as the leech of the sail was probably to open 
). Plus, my mast base is squeezing down on the mast step...opposite problem I used to have...
Does anyone know what to do if you have a new mast step on your front cross bar, and the mast base has stainless bolts in it. I assume the previous owner put the bolts in to stop the mast base being chipped away and resulting in over rotation...now the bolts are chipping away at the new alluminium mast step. 
Should I consider puting in stainless bolts in the new mast step?