Vintage Hobies
The Hobie 16 & 14 have been around, well, just about forever. Many of us enjoy our old boats and do most anything to keep them going. I believe the older boats should now be considered
Vintage
boats. But, what defines a vintage Hobie? Pre-comptip? Old style jib cam cleats? Pre-redline? Sail colors?
What are your thoughts on this?
When looking at the definition of vintage in adj. form
The Hobie 16 fits this criteria, still strong amongst all one-design sailing classes.
OR
You may say pre-1995 without integral traveler tracks (allowing more rake) are outmoted. Prior to that possibly pre-1984 when the class lowered min. weight to 320#s.
I'm looking for a variety of opinions, but my personal opinion tends to the
true
older boat. If it has a comp-tip, its hard for me to call a boat a vintage Hobie. I would certainly get upset with calling any post-1984 boat as vintage. The 1984 change is a definite watershed.
About 7 years ago, I met a guy who is now my friend. He was learning how to sail a Hobie 16 and I gave him some advice and eventully sailed on his boat. It was Hobie 16 number 166, as stamped into the aluminum stanchions.
This boat's hulls were severely faded from sun, but they were as hard as glass with not a soft spot to be found.
I do not know what the weight of this boat was.
GARY
I consider mine to be
Vintage
, (AKA Old like Mary said" 1980 Hobie 14!!!
got ya beat....ive got a 79'
Got you beat, 70-71, h16, serial number ccme 23170 very much hoping to get the soft spot fixed this year and put it back on the water.
Jeff- if you're interested there is a 71' H14 in Cannon Falls that will probably end up die a gruesome death if no one picks it up. It's tough looking, and needs alot of work/parts. But it's there, I wouldn't offer over $200 for it. A little bit soft, but still fairly stiff.
I think I have you all beat but how do I find out the age of a Hobie?
The Hobie 16 Hull number 1279 is stamped on the plyon posts and acording to the web site that makes it a pre-1973 model but I am curious of the actual year of manufacture.
Also having trouble registering it because the hull does not have a number other than 1279. (Registration required to put the boat on the beach in NJ) Any advice appreciated.
For reference, the boat is pretty close to new condition except for a little gel coat fading and a few loose rivets.
Which goes back to the original question. What is the cut-off year? What defines vintage?
Not sure it is just the date of the boat, but would you not have to have age appropriate
Sails, Blocks, Tramp, harness, rudders and most importantly of all crew? What about the Mast? For a car to be truly vintage, do not all of the parts also have to be vintage?
Could you set the time line to be something like prior to the upgrade of Parts X say for example Main blocks
Sam
Sam,
Good point, it would be very rare to find enough boats that haven't been upgraded with jib systems, main blocks, EPO's and the like.
I'd suggest the cutoff be no newer than 1983, as that's when the minimum weight was dropped/standardized, even then some older (pre '80) boats are light. It would be hard to arrive at a consensus.
As far as the crew age goes, HCANA rules have master and grand master established.
Sails, Blocks, Tramp, harness, rudders and most importantly of all crew? What about the Mast?
For a car to be truly vintage, do not all of the parts also have to be vintage?
________________________________________
I can speak to the reference to Vintage Race Cars:
Generally speaking, we permit replacement of all components with original spec items, regardless of when they are manufactured. That means, in theory, that the whole boat or car might be made of essentially new parts.
When original spec parts are no longer availible, then we allow parts that are functionally similar. This of course can be a grey area subject to heated debate.
In the case of
Vintage Hobies
, I would support the time-line concept. You won't get recognition from Hobie for several reasons, primarily because they have the Comp Tip rule and also they are in the business of selling new boats. However, factory parts are readily available.
For non-Hobie races, the Vintage Hobies (VH16)?? could start with the H16's and just be scored separately. Since they would still be class legal, they might also be scored with the fleet as well.
The key points to define a VH16 could be:
1. Pre-1984 hulls.
2. No Comp-Tip.
3. Max mast rake as defined by rule.
4. Min weight of 365#
5. Sails cut to 1983 pattern, but aftermarket to same design allowed.
6. Open tramp rule.
7. Original jib halyard and downhaul.
8. 6:1 mainsheet.
9. Plastic rudders.
10. Crew age….??? Not sure if that should be a factor…the youngsters wouldn’t have a fair chance!
Another concept would be to take in Prindle 16 and Sol Cat survivors. They ought to be able to race straight-up with the VH16’s.
Mine has all the original hardware, no comp tip. Fairly well worn. If I see other hobies around, I hide. In fact, I'm down to one cleat left on the mast.
My Gcat is original also, and it was a rental. Makes the hobie look like a yacht. It might be ready for the water next spring.

I have a '75. It has white with blue top hulls, original sails in excellent condition, hulls are excellent. Original hardware mostly. I was told at a regatta last weekend that it is a collector Hobie. Is there such a thing? I was fixing to add all the latest stuff to it like comp tip, gudgeons, traps, stays...etc. Should I leave it orginal?
Depends. Do you want a Plastic Classic or do you want to race? If you want to race, will the investment in upgrades eventually be more than what the boat is worth? And, will the investment in upgrades boost the performance to be able to compete with newer boats?

Manufacturing processes have changed over the years that resulted in lighter hulls. The red glue models were so light the factory was putting lead weights in the forward pylons. The few who discovered that little trick simply pulled the foam plug out and removed the lead.
If you have an older boat that is close to minimum weight, go with it. Next step is make sure the crossbars are not flexing as the pop rivets will wear. Replace them as needed. Then it's time for new hardware. I'd do the following.
New sails - They get blown out. Period. It's amazing how your boat speed will improve. There's a number of schools of thought on where to place tell tales. Once you decide on the best location for you, have windows installed.
Harken low profile blocks for the main sheets.
Aussie 3:1 jib halyard.
Jib outhaul system.
Double trap setup if you don't already have one. Don't use dogbone rings unless you like getting hit in the face.
Forestay bridle fly. An excellent tool when reaching.
Up until recently I think I may have had one of the oldest hobie 16 to still be sailing. It has no evidence of hull numbers, but has the number 643 on the pylons.
Unfortunately due to an incident last year I now am the proud owner of two halves of a hobie cat as the pylons on the port side broke (untold years of corrosion) and the port hull parted company from the rest of the boat.
Luckily this occured a mere 200 metres from the boat ramp, but it was still slighly embarrasing given the number of spectators and was potentially much more serious had I been further out to sea at the time.
Oddly enough I have been unable to locate a broken Hobie 14 mast to donate mast section for new pylons, so I am getting new ones made by some engineers and will attempt to glass them in.
Anybody have any suggestions?
May not be entirely class legal but she will sail again...
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