Newbie here....
I would like to install a couple more cleats on the bottom area of my mast...and some other stuff needs to be done.
From what I understand, I would need to be using SS rivets for the high strength stuff and aluminum may be ok for some of the lesser stressed items.
Q: Can I use one of those hand held rivet tools...that looks like you can use with one or maybe two hands...or do I need to buy an air powered model.
Any other hints in the rivet dept. would be gladly accepted. Thanks!
The hand rivot tool will work just fine. I keep one in my sail gear bag.
A hand rivet tool does work, but I find I need extra leverage to get the stainless rivets to pop. Usually I get a friend to help me pull the handles together, or in a pinch I slip a couple of lengths of pipe (usually the handles from an old fishing net) on the handles to get the extra leverage. It takes quite a bit of force to pop the stainless rivets.
Also don't forget to seal them with marine sealant or marine tex. Not terribly critical at the bottom of the mast but it's good to keep it as water tight as possible.
D.
The sealant will also help isolate the dissimilar metals slowing down the galvanic corrosion.
I have no problem popping the SS rivots. Eat your Wheaties! 🙂
I thought I remember seeing (I think on here) where they have the electric rivit guns at 'Harbor Freight' When I used mine handheld rivit tool, don't release your handle all the way~~ just part way so you do a little at a time, that way there ya won't have to fight and cuss & use all kinds of harsh words.....and Philip is right, eat yer Wheaties~~'2 bowls' :-O
I like the Marson VHR-2 Heavy Duty Hand Riveter.
It can easily pull 1/8" - 1/4" rivets in all materials
Have any of you people seen Bruce Jenner lately!? He looks like a heroin addict!
Wolfman,
This is a thread about riveting stuff on boats.
Did you feel that Bruce Jenner bad looks were really riveting? But...give us a link to his sad self anyhow....
Ok, instead of using standard aluminum or SS rivets...what do you guys think of these:
http://www.blindrivetsupply.com/Marson_Flat_Head_Rivet_Nuts.html
The gun cost a bit more to put them in but after installation, you can screw & unscrew cleats, etc. ????
John, I wouldn't use aluminum rivets on a cleat. Stick to Stainless or Monel, both are MUCH stronger than aluminum and are meant for the type fo stresses the cleats will experience. The klik rivet system looks really neat, but I think it is probably overkill considering you can get a rivet gun for about $20 and the rivets are only about $.70 each. That and you should only have to do it once every 10-20 years.
Oh, and though Bruce Jenner's decathelon prowess was rivetting there were 2 references to me eating my wheaties. The history of that is that Bruce Jenner was a long time athlete featured on the Wheaties box and major spokesman for many years - he was heavily associated with the cereal during the late 70's early 80's (when beach cats were in thier heyday). He now is so emaciated he looks like a heroine addict. In other words he probably doesn't eat his Wheaties either. Stupid joke and an obscure reference I know.
TileMan5309 wrote:
The gun cost a bit more to put them in but after installation, you can screw & unscrew cleats, etc. ????
All my cleats are installed with SS screws, I can remove them at will. Why would you want to remove your cleats? You don't keep them in a pyramid shaped vacuum crypt, do you?
Neat fasteners though. I don't think there is much of a need for them on a beachcat.
edited by: mummp, Sep 15, 2009 - 09:41 PM
I need to replace a couple of rivets also, one on my tiller and other on mast base area. Can someone advise when u would want to use aluminum vs stainless steel? (ie in what applications?) Also would a basic rivet gun from lowes work on the mast w/ ss?
Thanks
ps - Wolfman - i was right there w/ ya on the BJ reference 😉
I can't think of anywhere I would use an aluminum rivet on a cat. They just can't bear much load. I looked at the Nacra parts lists and all the rivets are either monel or stainless steel. The monel rivets are a little easier to pop, but the stainless are a little stronger. Neither will corrode in fresh water, but can under certain circumstances in salt water.
A basic rivet gun should work. A REALLY cheap one might run the risk of breaking. I paid $25 for mine and have redone most of the rivets on my boat now. I would look for a gun that is cast (i.e. mottled texture) versus stamped/formed sheet metal (used for the $10-$15 riveters). And the longest handles possible to provide better leverage.
At least someone got the reference. I was starting feel really old! 🙂
Wolfman,
I do agree with you. There are areas on the Nacras that I prefer aluminum rivets, including the mast base, boom ends, spin pole ends, older style rudder castings to tiller arms. The newer style rudders have no rivets. You could get away with no rivets on the mast base, in a pinch if you had to, which I've done.
As I have mentioned, I carry a rivet tool. I also have a very complete inventory of 3/16" SS and aluminum rivets in all grip ranges. Including in the inventory is 3/16" SS and aluminum washers, which come in handy as backing in unique applications. I also carry 1/8" aluminum rivets in several grip ranges.
Cool, thanks for the good advice. I'll be looking at rivet guns this weekend. 🙂
(youre not too old, its a good reference Bruce Jenner = Wheaties goes together like Peter Pan and peanut butter only more so 😉
Only whimps need Wheaties and rivit guns.. a real man can rivit with his fingers....
MAN UP
(just kidding)
PS Bruce does look really bad, esp with his "plucked eyebrows" and face lift... but ya gotta have respect for a guy who can do what he did...
I just went through a huge web-search on the whole topic of aluminum vs. stainless steel vs. monel rivets and how to place them. In the end, I bought stock rivets from a hobie dealer and installed them with a heavy-duty hand rivet gun that a borrowed from a friend. These were 3/16 rivets for a Hobie 16 mast base repair. Stock Hobie rivets are monel - an alloy that is stronger than aluminum but doesn't have galvanic corrosion problems. Don't screw around with any special rivets, just call your Hobie (or Nacra, or whatever) dealer and get the manufacturer's recommended rivets.
For 3/16 rivets you definitely need a high quality rivet tool, but a simple hand model will do - you don't need an air-compressor driven model. I was able to install the rivets without resorting to extending the rivet tools grips with a length of pipe, or anything like that (likely to break the tool if you have to do that). It did take a very strong grip - let's just say all those sessions in the climbing gym paid off an unexpected bonus! People with big strong hands, tennis players, rock climbers, massage therapists, etc. will have no trouble. People with small hands or not a lot off grip strength may have a struggle.
Thanks for all of the good advice. I have landed on the VHR-2 rivet hand held rivet gun, and will probably be buying a range of different rivets from them.
With the longer handles it will give me more leverage for SS rivets
A friend let me use his "screwsert" I think that's what he called it. What it does is insert a threaded pop rivit sor you can use screws. Gives more of a bite than just treading the aluminum mast. Also stronger than pop rivits.
Only whimps need Wheaties and rivit guns.. a real man can rivit with his fingers....
MAN UP
haha...awesome.
I use my teeth, but I have weak fingers.