From what I've read, it appears as though platform weights, including centreboards and rudders, are about 75-80kg. This would make rig weights for sloops of about 25-35kg. Is this correct?
I'm just trying to see if my half built new hulls are coming in close to standard.
I've been taking plenty of photos and will post some later.
F16 Hulls : typically 22.5 - 25.5 kg
With the new commercially produced hulls often coming out at 23 kg or lower and therefor being lighter then the orginal Taipan hulls were (23.5 kg on average). THAT is quite an achievement.
Wouter
is 23kgs including the rudders/daggerboards? as i am making a f16(ish)cat and the hulls are 20kgs each and i thought this was very light
It is light, what was the construction method/material?
i was given the hulls, by a chap who makes foilers, he is making carbon stuff now, but these are 3 or 4mm ply stich and glue. i had a unicorn which was similar and not much hevier, as ply is so light is it just the strength that is a issue? as it is obviously much cheaper than carbon or kevelar?
Rictorn,
Can I reasonabley assume you will be sailing this cat rigger. Ie no jib?
Regards,
Phill
no i am going for the whole kit and kabudle, jib and hooter/asmetric spinnaker, as my only worry is the high aspect rig will drive the bows in where as any type of fore sale should lift the bows or at tleast be neautral in that respect
what douse anyone think??
Hi Rictorn,
are you intending to run twin forestays or a bridle? From my experience altering a A class to F16 with a bridle, the hulls need to be heavier than what you are describing. Horizontal strength ahead of the main beam is essential as the bridle loads try to pull the bows together. <img src=
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I would say that the framing inside is probably more important than the plywood skin, which is the only thing you have given info on. So what is inside?
Regards Gary.
i'll cheak how strong the frame is inside, but for now, i was thinking of having both to spead the strain, asd i would need a for stay to run the jib up or the jib as a fore stay, with the bridal wires a bit further back basicaly having the jib on the inside of the 2 forestays and the spinnaker running outside it,
douse this seam possible?
do any cats do this?
A better option for a structurally borderline cat with jib and spinnaker is to add a forward cross bar like the nacras (Nacra 5.8 I think, one of the nacra classes with jib definitely has it.)
yes i have a windsurfer mast for the job but, i wonder if it is neccary, if you have a ordinary bridal at the pointy ends taking 1/2 the strain and twin fore stays further back say 3' forward of the beam taking 1/2, but what do people think?
it will be difficult to achieve adequate rig tension on the forestay, pointing ability upwind will be compromised.
Rictorn,
If you are going to use a jib on this craft you have two options that will maximise the chances of success.
First and the simplest is a bridle foil and a single forestay.
Second is to take the decks off and put in a subdeck and still use a single forestay.
If you decide to not use a jib you won't have to be concerned about how a jib would set on your boat so
you could use dual forestays maybe from the bridle
fittings.
Regards,
Phill
I was thinking of adopting dual forestays on my new Stealth as I wont be using a Jib, but decided against it due to the additional friction on the spinnaker sheets during a gybe. In light winds there's quite a bit of friction on a single forestay set up I wouldn't like to imagine how difficult it could be to gybe with the sheets being pulled across two stays.
I hope that I am not hijacking a thread but I am intersted in buying a set of Taipan plans from AHPC to build one, but have been warned off the Taipan 4.9 by a sailor with
40 years experience in Yvonne catamarans
. It is his opinion that the Taipan is too lightly built and would not cope with regular sailing in 20-25 knots of wind. I do not want to do my money on a boat that will not cope with the conditions I am likely to encounter on a regular basis. I am therefore seeking some input from sailors with experience with these catamarans.
Gday Nick
I've just built one, I can't say I'd be worried about taking it or another one out in a blow.
Anything can be made stronger, theres a heap of little tricks that aren't in the plans that I have learnt from a couple of different sources, one being Phill Brander who has built nearly a handful of them.
I will build another one, using some of the tricks I missed out on the first time.
The earliest Taipans are still doing the rounds with the latest factory built boats and still posting top placings.
Regards
Go back to that Yvonne sailor and tell him that he is talking nonsense.
Plain and simple.
Wouter
Hi all,
I'm turning this discussion back to it's original track <img src=
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Has someone with self built Blade weighted the hulls? I did so and they were around 22.5 kg (foam bulkheads were in, even though they were not glued). I guess that there will be about 4.5 to 6 kg's more with epoxy and decks, so it seems that my platform will be too heavy.
--
Valtteri
Phills prototype hulls were 25 kg if I remember correctly.
Wouter
Hi NickS
The Taipan is a brilliant cat but if you really are going to sail regularly in 20-25 knots, maybe you need a modern Mosquito with a spinnaker, rather than a Taipan. The smaller rig will make life easier and allow you to enjoy the use of a spinnaker. Of course if there are Taipans to sail against where you are, then go for it!
I agree with Wouter, the Yvonne sailor is talking rubbish.