Seems with the heavier winds this spring, I have been going out on the wire more than ever. Any tips for handling the sheets going out and coming back in?
I think I cleat the main right before I come in after throwing the extra line onto the tramp (which I usually lay over the trap handle). Once I get in I uncleat and let out a few feet. Downwind, main issue is getting back on thew boat without driving really deep or high.
is this what you mean?
I usually threw the tail onto the tramp and released the main as I was coming in for a tack (just natural movement of mainsheet with body) and cleated it as I got onto the tramp. Slid across to other side.
Hooked-up and pull sheet on with body movement as I swung out onto trap.
Keeping the sheets tidy is another matter but they need to the correct length and the flicking technique will come with practice.
I NEVER cleat the main upwind and in fact the cleat is deliberately angled so it's impossible. Coming in off the wire I use a combination of pulling the sheet up to my shoulder and allowing the sheet to ease slightly as the boat passes through the wind - bear in mind that I don't come in until the boat is almost head to wind because I began the tack while still on the wire. The combination of easing the sheet by my movement and being mid-tack allows the boat to pay off slightly on the new tack and it's then a simple matter of straight back out on the wire on the new tack and sheet in while adjusting course.
Downwind I WILL cleat the main but because of the angle of the cleat it's very easy to blow the main if I have to - the downside is that I have to come back into the boat to re-cleat it if that's what I want! Gybing is straight forward as you've only the spin sheet to worry about - similar to a tack, commence the gybe and come in easing sheet as you go. Take the sheet with you to the opposite side of the boat, hook on and get out and sheet in as you go. Be very careful to only gybe through enough angle to actually gybe - too much of an angle and the cleated main will have you over!
Practice, practice, practice!
Easiest way is to hold the joystick and mainsheet in the same hand, that way when you come in the main will automatically sheet out.
Same thing counts for going out.
I do exactly the same as Tony. Works fine and safe as you sheet out a little when coming in + you can release the mainsheet if needed.
That's what cleats are made for. However on my Harken block the angle adjustment is to coarse to find a setting which works from the trapez and the trampoline, so I can't cleat going in.
I never cleat going out, as it is good to sheet in a bit tighter when going out. I have it in the forward hand, so I do not need change hands, when I am out. When going in, I let the sheet in the forward hand, grap the trap line with the sheet in the hand and go in. As Jalani explained, you have to stay longer out to not loose too much speed due to unsheeting when coming in. If your cleat can easily be used from the wire, you can cleat, head in the wind and go in. The boat turns faster when you are in and loose less speed. When changing sides, uncleat, let out a bit and go on the other side in the wire, sheeting in that way.
I wish I would have a block with finer adjustment. The Ronstan blocks seem to have also only a coarse adjustment...
Cheers,
Klaus
Same thing counts for going out.
so it slips when going out?
To tack upwind I cleat the main, push the tiller, come in as the boat gets head to wind, uncleat, release a bit of mainsheet, throw the tiller around, hook on the trapeze and go out while sheeting to rebuild the speed.
Works for me. The only possible panic is when I can't unhook fast enough because something is tangled as I end up on the wrong side of the boat with a cleated main <img src="<>/smile.gif" alt="smile" title="smile" height="15" width="15" /> It's rare, but is a good adrenalin rush when it happen!
Downwind if I'm on the trapeze I do a two steps process. I first bear off and come in with the spi sheet in hand and then I jibe from the trampoline as I found that I need finer control on the tiller than I can do while running across.
I never cleat going out, as it is good to sheet in a bit tighter when going out. I have it in the forward hand, so I do not need change hands, when I am out. When going in, I let the sheet in the forward hand, grap the trap line with the sheet in the hand and go in. As Jalani explained, you have to stay longer out to not loose too much speed due to unsheeting when coming in. If your cleat can easily be used from the wire, you can cleat, head in the wind and go in. The boat turns faster when you are in and loose less speed. When changing sides, uncleat, let out a bit and go on the other side in the wire, sheeting in that way.
I wish I would have a block with finer adjustment. The Ronstan blocks seem to have also only a coarse adjustment...
Cheers,
Klaus
Can use the wedges, risers and all angle fairleads as a fine adjustment. Running the rope through the cleat on an angle can give a hair trigger type release for the cleat if the wedge is angled the right way.
http:/
Link to the cleat accessories.
Darryn
Mozzie
1782
Sheet handling from the wire is easier than sheet handling sitting on your butt. To make either easier requires a bit of practice. There is definitely no right or wrong way just the way you are comfortable with and can repeat throughout a race/series.
http:/
Link to the cleat accessories.
Darryn
Mozzie
1782
Thanks, good idea. Much cheaper than a new block.
Cheers,
Klaus