Uni Spin Setup

It isn't necessary to remove the jib track. I'll try to get some pictures of my system, which was the factory set-up before Alter Cup.

This is Wouter's diagram. It is different from mine in that my halyard leads to the back of the tramp. This set-up is cleaner.

Chris, you will need to run your halyard down the mast to the forward beam, do not use the on-mast block-clete, but through a block on the forward beam and out front to the tack line (see diagram above).

Tie a single block onto the tail of your tack line, (unless you want to go with a 2-1 double block setup) adjust the length so that when the halyard is tight (spinn-up) the tack line is also tight (tack at pole tip) and then the halyard comes back from that block at the tail of the tack line to the forward beam, to a cleat mounted there on the beam.

Personally, I do not like the system as it adds drag to the halyard when you are raising it, you have to pull harder, and you have to pull straight back from the beam. I use the two line system even when Uni, as I can first pull the tack line out with one or two quick pulls, then I can pull downwards from the mast block-cleat with little drag, the spin comes up quickly.

I also don't like it during a take down because I like to dump the halyard and snuff quickly, then at the end, release the tack line. If you are using the single line setup, you will be releasing the tack line at the same time you release the halyard, and the foot of the spin can blow out to the side of the boat and even get under the hull if you are not quick with the snuffing line.

Some guys love the single line setup, so try it and see, but you will need to add a cleat to your forward beam to do it. If you want to try it first, without drilling your beam, you can use the jib sheet cleat (go jib-less for the trial) for the halyard instead. All you will need is a single harken for the tail of the tack line to try it. Don't cut any lines until you are sure you want to do it!

Pete/Tim. I will give that system a try. What I probably really need is more practice. I think I will be able to make the F16/A invitational. I got Friday off so I will drive Thursday night and get there Friday morning. Thanks for the help.

Great! Looking forward to it!

Chris, the best improvement I have made to my spinnaker hoisting and snuffing is I changed out my halyard to a tapered one, 3mm dyneema for the first 25 feet or so, then 50 feet of that soft mafioli type stuff (4mm?) so it never kinks up at the grometts or blocks any more.

I had mine made by Mike Krantz at Layline (cost about $120, the tapered splice was $29) but Andi uses straight 3mm dyneema for his entire halyard, no soft stuff at all, but you will want to be wearing gloves to hoist it when it's blowing. You can insert a small peice of the 3mm for about a foot where you will be cleating it, to give it some fullness there.

Chris,

I watched you guys for a couple races last weekend. I did notice that you were a little slow getting your spinnaker up after rounding that mark you guys were using for A mark. I think the single line spinnaker system is better because it involves one less step. It appears Tim has gotten used to his system and likes it fine. I don't know if he has tried the single line setup. BTW, that was the first time I have seen the Blade and it really reacted well to the wind gusts I thought. It appeared to accelerate very fast with those oscillating winds you guys were dealing with. Also, the guy you were racing has pretty much perfected his spin set and drop from having had the boat for sometime now.

I had a spinlock mounted to the forward beam that controlled my single line system on the F17. We (F17 sailors) also have a bullet block mounted on a line attached to the rear beam to keep the halyard tight to avoid tangles etc. Unlike that diagram Tiki posted, F17 guys normally have the halyard simply going from front to rear parallel to the hulls about 3

- 4

to the right side of the mast which allows for a very smooth halyard movement.

Tom

Tom, I did have the system on my Nacra 5.5 with spinn several years ago. The lines were constantly twisting and causing choke-up between the line and blocks to the tack line. But with the new Dyneema type lines, maybe that's not an issue anymore. Which ever system you use, the key is to practice until you get it down to a few quick pulls and be gone.

One thing though, on my take-downs, I leave it up until I am well inside the leeward gate and I can snuff it nearly all the way in with only the tack out, while turning upwind, and even finish the snuff by releasig the tack while going upwind. You cannot do that with the single line system as the tack will be free and blowing you backwards. What ever, just pick one and get used to it so you can do it quickly.

A spin lock came with my boat. I love it. I think Timbo removed his.

Tim,

The F17 was my first spin boat so that is the only system I am used to. I/We did have problems with lines tangling, etc. when we first got the boats in 2001 but were able to fix that with bullet blocks and bungee cords to keep the halyard tight and in a straight line parallel to the hulls.

Tom

Chris,

We are having another race in Pcola on the 23rd and my F17 will be there. Bring a camera and take a few pics of my setup. It is very clean, simple, and I think you will like it.

Bob <img src=

alt=

/>
F17 #23

I THINK single line is better for single handing as it's just one bit of string to pull the kite up, and one down again. It might be slightly slower than a 2 line system, but it is simpler, and us single handers with kites have enough to do without adding more complexity!

chris,
My blade has the single line set up and I just changed it a little so the halyard doesn't go to the rear beam. I will be down there in early march for the performance midwinters and you can see my set up live then. It is similar to the diagram except it runs on the starboard side of the tramp. I only used it for the first time when I was down there in January and it seems to work well. It is better than the halyard/snuffer line going to the back of the tramp because it is easier to look forward when you are snuffing it.
Are you going to do this race?
Bob, what race is the 23rd?

Chris,
if you are going to be driving through navaree/gulfbreeze anytime soon I can tell you where my boat is and you can see the way it is set up. Send me a pm, or email me.

Races on the:
23rd: Fleet race
1st: Ice Pick
8-9: Perf MidWinters

** All in Pcola.

Hope to see everyone at one or all of these races!

Bob <img src=

alt=

/>

I'll be there on the 8-9. Murray is going to be driving my boat with me crewing. If things don't work out the first day we might switch (diffusion or responsibility and all that <img src=

alt=

/> ).

Thomm,

If you do make pictures of Bob setup, can you then past them here on the forum so we all can learn ?

Thanks,

Wouter

Wouter,

I think he was talking to Chris, but I can bring my camera if I make it over in time and take some shots. Then I will post them. It's not the greatest camera though so we'll just have to see how well they turn out.

Tom

Will be fine I'm sure. We don't need a high res camera to spot the tricks !

Many thanks is advance !

Wouter

Its funny how fashion effects our thinking.

when they first put kits on Tornados, everyone had the cleat on the beam. Word then passed around that it was much easier to pull down than out, so everyone moved the cleat onto the mast. Having had a good look at all the boats at the asia/pacific championships I'm pretty sure 9 of the top 10 boats at the upcoming worlds will have the cleat on the beam. Justifications varied between different people examples I heard were:

Its better for hoisting in rough conditions (you have to stand up to get full advantage of the on mast system).

It makes for a cleaner tramp layout without the loose tail flapping around.

Its easier to cleat.

Less holes in the carbon mast

Bundy and Gashby are doing it this way so it must be better.

On a side note, as someone looking to join you (single handing an F16) could someone talk me through a top mark rounding. Particularly are you hanging onto the tiller while hoisting?

edit: if you go to a single line system make sure you have a knot in the tack line that hits the tack block. Set it so the kite can get into the bag but no further. This should help with some of the tack line issues discussed above. I do it on split systems also.

That is a good idea, hadn't thought of that.

Well I don't count myself as an expert but as far as the tiller is concerned, no you don't hang on to it. Just put it down and the boat will track reasonably well long enough to get the spin up.

I don't know how every one else does it single handed but I always drop the traveler way out as I round A mark, bear off deep, let go the tiller, pull the tack, hoist the kite, trim the sheet with one hand and tiller with the other, head up, trim kite, sit on sheet, pull up traveler to where it needs to be depending on course and wind strength, leave it, return to trimming kite with one hand and steering with other. I can usually release the mast rotator and cunningham at some point shortly there after.

But that is the easy part. The exciting part is the snuff at the C mark with boats all around, all going fast, all snuffing spinns! I drop the traveler again so it will not head up and flip over while I quickly drop halyard, pull snuffer line then release tack, fully snuff as the boat is rounding up now, usually, grab tiller and traveler, steer upwind and bring traveler up, reach for rotator and cunningham while going out on the wire, wind permitting.

Yes, it's much easier to have a crew do it all! <img src=

alt=

/>

What he said

Interesting to note that I've been a cleat-on-beam-single-line-spi-halyard ever since 1998 when I purchased my first spinnaker. I have always liked it that way, even when having tried the two line setup on other boats. I also prefer a 4 mm dyneema line as halyard which is not something most people seem to agree on. Mmy spinnaker seems to take rather well to that line despite it being rough on the outside; my spinnaker is now 5 years old and still flying; the number of small piece of tapes is still pretty low. But lets not talk about its flying shape anymore !

As any 1-up F16 sailor will tell you, racing an F16 singlehanded is just as much a race with yourself as with any other boat outthere. For me that is part of the attraction. It doesn't get more challenging then that. But when it all works out then it is as glorious as a New York ticker tape parade.

I do notice that everybody has a slighlt different method of doing the manouvres and undoubtable you will one that you prefer personally. I find the top mark to be easy, that is with respect to the hoisting the kite as my Taipan has a thing or two say when bearing off in big wind. So maybe it is just the adrenaline rush that makes me all giddy when it is time to hoist the spi.

I round the top mark in a normal manner but when crowded I try to come out of the rounding on the inside of all boats or on the outside when there is a wingmark. Basically, I want some room to me lee, because without it I go over when a gusts hits and I'm prevented from bearing down further. Normally other 2-up crews lets you get below as they want clear air anyway, so this seems to work out well for all of us. Also note that a 1-up F16 will sail under spinnaker significantly lower then a 2-up spinnaker boat so it is best to get out of eachother way from the start and of course that is why most other boats will only be happy to help you out here.

I don't adjust any settings before I round, with the possible exception of the traveller. When considerions allow I set it at the point where I want it under spinnaker. I may adjust my mainsheet a little but I never sheet out alot, basically it is nearly always in the position where I want it when flying the spi. This safes alot of time in my opinion and indeed my spinnaker runs are still very fast compared to others if I don't flip the boat on some wave halveway point down the leg; as I have proven many times over at the GC, ARGGG ! <img src=

alt=

/>

Anyway, so I set the mainsail while bearing off to almost straight downwind; I throught the tiller extension over the back and let go of the rudders completely. My boat is setup such that it will head-up on its own. I will take about 3 seconds before that becomes a problem. So I move forward and hoist the spi in one go as quickly as I can. The intent here is to have the kite flapping about as soon as possible as that counteracts the heading up that my boat does. Actually when the kite is hoisted the boat will be neutral or heading down slowly. I then grab the sheet and fill the spi at this point my boat will want to head down and I need to grab the cross bar (not tiller extension) to have it track straight. Of course by moving back on the boat to grab the crossbar I also tension the sheet further and move my weight back. The initial heading up of the boat before the spi was hoisted puts you on the right higher course to draw some air and get speed up, and the bearing down under spi will bring the boat down and send you on your way on the right heading.

When done right this all works out really well and you'll be gone quite often before the other boats have there spis drawing. Alot of sailors do fumble about somewhat.

The only real spoilers in this procedure are :

-1- Tall waves coming fast on my stern, My taipan bows dig when the sterns are lift and that really increases the rate of heading up on my boat. In such conditions, I really have to time the start of
my hoist and get the actual hoist done right under 2 seconds. Ones the spi is up (flapping or flying) things are back under control again as you move back and hold onto the crossbar.

-2- A spinnaker that hangs up before it is halveway. The only solution there is to get it down and jump back on the boat and bear off using the rudders and try again or when things have gone completely wrong, head-up into the wind and sort things out.

However, I have found that alot can be done by smoothing out the halyard systems so you have no kinks in the halyard and have a smooth running setup.

I have also found that with hoisting and dropping the kite that

SPEED IS EVERYTHING !

; the quicker it goes up and down the less issues you are confronted with. Practice hard on that and things will actually become easier. Basically, there will be less time for things to foul up, head up, speed up (wind, gust), slow down (boat, apparent wind angle) and whatever.

When the conditions are mild then I may start retrimming other parts of the boat/rig once I got the spinnaker drawing and the boat moving. Don't do these things before you get the spinnaker drawing as a boat when upwind trim and a spi drawing will be earlier to the bottom-mark then a boat trimmed perfectly for downwind work but delayed 3 or more seconds of spi drawing in getting these systems set right. Greg Goodall has a good rule of thumb that goes like. Everything second that you delay the spi drawing costs you 10 meters in comparison to the competition. Of course no adjustment in mainsail trim will ever win you back 50 meters on the downwind leg, that is just not happening.

Also, I leave my boards down on the downwind legs unless the conditions are so strong that I'm absolutely forced to pull them up. Again, pulling them up singlehandedly costs valuable spi drawing time and my boat actually behaved better with the boards all the way down, but I have short Taipan boards. On the other hand Greg is on record of saying that he keeps them down on the Capricorn as well. Again I think you can see that a good rule of thumb is too leave the boards in their optimal upwind positions and don't adjust during racing unless upwind performance demands it.

Start out in moderate conditions and work your way up to stronger winds. It will all work out.

Good luck.

Wouter

I have the same issue. I think bearing off is the most challenging part of the race for me if there is big wind. I currently try to stay on the trap for as long a possible and ease the main while making the turn. In the past I also eased the traveler but felt like it created a big flat

barn door

that when I got turned down wind would push the bows down and usually result in a swim. Am I on the right track here or doing it all wrong? I am not sure staying on the trap is a good idea or not due the instability caused by all the accelerations, decelerations and turning going on.

You will have to come in at some point, and to try to 1. ease the traveler then, 2. turn downwind, 3. ease the mainsheet but only a little and 4. set the kite, all while being out on the wire, it's a bit much.

As soon as you get it turned downwind, you are going to go Splash if you are out on the wire anyway, so you want to be coming in as, or just before, you turn down.

I have always found that dropping the travler way out -first-, then turn, is the quickest way to get it to turn downwind without putting too much pressure on the low hull towards a stuff, or too much drag on the rudders to slow you down.

The trick is to come in off the wire, turn and ease the traveler out smoothly, so you keep your speed up, and even accelerate, keep your weight back so the bows stay up. Do it on two hulls if it's blowing.

Once you are pointed downwind, any gusts will just make you go faster as long as you continue to bear way off in the gusts.

Remember, if it's blowing 20 and you are going 15 downwind, the apparant wind is only 5, that's when I raise the spinn, after accelerating to 15 downwind, after turning. It's all easier said than done... <img src=

alt=

/>