Just wondering what the consensus was for attaching rear foot-straps? Is drilling a hole and using a washer sufficient? Any concern with glass fatigue or exposure because of the holes? Someone suggested glassing in a wooden block on the inside of the hull but it seemed overboard. Would appreciate any suggestions and if anyone had any downsides to drilling through the hull long term? Using the Dakine rears.
Thanks,
Dave
Drill hole. Silicone hole. Silicone washer. Insert bolt/footstrap/washer/nut. Tighten. Break foot off.
I think I will try and avoid the last step 😉
It helps to put them under a small outward angle.
Makes it easier to get into and your crew's feet wont inderfere with the rudders <img src="<>/smile.gif" alt="smile" title="smile" height="15" width="15" />
Karl: Didnt you already lose two feet when you went from the C2 to the Viper? <img src="<>/wink.gif" alt="wink" title="wink" height="15" width="15" />
Makes it easier to get into and your crew's feet wont inderfere with the rudders <img src="<>/smile.gif" alt="smile" title="smile" height="15" width="15" />
Karl: Didnt you already lose two feet when you went from the C2 to the Viper? <img src="<>/wink.gif" alt="wink" title="wink" height="15" width="15" />
Karl never had a C2, but he does have stick envy.
I've always been a little envious of Ding's stick. What can I say....
I'd mount them so they're as loose as possible also. They never seem to open enough if you've got clown feet.
I attach the fwd side of the strap to the rear beam, to minimize the number of holes drilled in the deck. Make the opening wide enough so that there's still some slop with booties on. I twist my foot in the strap to secure it, untwisting in an emergency makes exiting easy and somewhat safer.
Dave
forgive me for contributing in the land of the F18s... but here is my suggestion. my boat has HMWPE squares as backing plates for hardware using large sheet metal SS screws. Works well.
The Dakine footstraps are nice but don't last in the sun at all. Sew up some nice ones yourself using polyester webbing. burn a hole in either end and put the screws through the holes using a washer. Costs about 2 dollars in materials. might create a cleaner break too when you break your foot off.
Most F18s use this Magic Marine footstrap, its simple, light, and very strong:
http:/
IMHO best way to mount it is to fix one end on the transom and the other on the hull.
if using the magic marine footstraps make sure that the velcro does not open from the front of the boat otherwise all the water running down the side of the boat has a tendency to open them (or at least the top layer of velcro)
+1 for the magic marine footstraps... best footstrap out tehre. they are hard to locate in the U.S. I have a few sets coming in soon if you want to drop me a note.
No need for backing plates and mount the footstrap as far back as you can, there is no where else to put it. You need your crew as far back as they can go. Some of the newer boats are designed with a chine on the back corner which works perfect for mounting the footstrap.
Todd, I could use a set.
Is there any provision in this system for adjustibility? I boat-ho on several beachcats, and sometimes have to adjust the footstrap size because I wear shoes
Whats the price on those MM straps? My boat has 3 pairs of dakines straps on it that all need replacing from the sun eating them up.
Bacho... You bought that worrell harness from me, shoot me an email Todd dot Riccardi at gmail dot com
I bought a Worrell harness from you too and it split after 3 uses. Did you give him the good one?
Did it really?!? I know they had that issue but they semed to have fixed it. I had one split the 2nd day I used it on the first leg of the Tybee... Randall from Aquata had a new one sitting outside his office for me to pick up that night... give them a call though it might be worth just getting it stiched by a loft... I'll buy you a drink or two in Long Beach.