I know, another damn thread on spinnaker rigging. I'll keep this short and add what knowledge is posted in the other threads.
Primary question and reason for this thread is what are people using at the top of the mast on the spinnaker halyard? I have a Harken 29mm carbo airblock up there and will likely replace with the exact same thing but it is showing signs of heavy wear (halyard slicing into the block). Has anyone tried an Antal ring? I know I'm getting silly with them but I hate moving parts!
Other knowledge gleamed from threads:
1) 5mm FSE Robline Racing Sheet slips in a Harken 150DS (double spring) cleat. Use a cover, or put the splice at the cleat to thicken the line. Ronstan cleats supposedly hold better.
2) Use a double cleat on the headbanger to prevent slippage going upwind, photo attached courtesy of Mike Krantz: ![[Linked Image]](https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4037474/double%20cleat%20for%20spin%20halyard.jpg)
3) Use a tapered spin halyard to prevent spinnaker burns.
Oh, all this is to get back to the beach first to grab a cold one before they're gone. If you're worried about that, can always take it with you: http:/
Sam,
my 29er airblock does have a swivel so it rotates pretty well and wear on the block is not an issue. Important is to have a slider plate made of plastic with covers the mast in the area the block moves. Correct length of blockline and baleline is important as well to make sure the block can turn free.
cheers Ludger
Ludger,
Any photos of your setup available? The plastic slider plate is a nice touch but not a stock item on the Infusion, sounds like a pain to add.
Of course I replaced my non-swiveling Harken airblock over the weekend with the same thing, I've used swiveling in the past but the manual shows a none-swiveling type. The way it's attached to the mast with the bale line I don't think a swiveling head would do much.
We also had the halyard eat up the air blocks too quickly. Went over to the Karver kbo2 which was great, lasted longer but split in the end. Have had a Harken T2 for a while, which I am very happy with, runs well, spliced it directly to the blockline. Since I don't believe it will hold forever, I have a Karver KBO4 ready to replace it.
I put a couple of layers of duct tape on the mast to protect it from the block. Bright green, contrasts nicely so it's easier to inspect the block without flipping the boat, and ID the boat from a distance...
Thanks Opher! The Harken T2 might be the ticket, $21 is hard to beat.
The Karver blocks look very interesting. I've just been running a microblock, but that's F16, and the loads are much lighter. Especially singlehanded.
We put micro blocks stock on the c2 and viper. Plenty of capacity in their ratings.
I take it those are the Harken 22mm micro blocks? And the bail attaches to the same point as the mast-head tie off line, rather than through the middle of the block like the ones listed above allow?
For what it's worth the 29mm Harken air blocks have a 1000 lb load vs. the micro blocks at 1200 lbs. Plus metal chews lines vs. the block being chewed.
I've got a 22mm micro on the i20, it seems to be pretty happy at the top of the mast. However, the same block will only last a couple regattas when mounted on the beam.
The air block held up fine over the weekend but on the suggestion of a few pros and the guys here I've elected to replace it prior to going mast up again. I looked at the Harken T2 and it's construction is lighter and less tough than the air block. The 22mm micro is a good choice but sized for 5mm line, and I have a halyard cover that is a tad thicker so the friction might be higher than I'd like. Plus metal banging on the metal mast may not be so ideal, though I have teflon tape in that area.
Hence, the choice was between the Karver KBO4 at $70 (ouch), this classic Harken block: http:/
or this Ronstan block: http:/
I went with the Ronstan since its what others use, has a higher SWL than the Air Block, and weighs 0.3oz less than the classic Harken block plus contains no metal