trouble snuffing Infusion chute

Is your setup okay?

The halyard runs through the two lower rings - untied - of the sail and is tied to the strap in the upper third of the spi.

I've added a piece of line about 6 inches long to the top ring with a stopper ball, this keeps some patch separation which appears to help. Some teams are going to a two patch system, this can be done with the mid pole snuffer system if the snuffer bag is extended under the tramp. The idea here is you have less spinnaker trying to go through the ring at the same time.

Thanks, that's helpful. I'll try adding some line to the middle point like you did.

Lockenfisch, I have the chute rigged just as you described.

I added the line to the top attachment point. The idea is to have a six inch separation between the top patch and middle patch. You don't have to add the line you can just put a knot in your retrieval line six inches from the top patch. I use a stopper ball because I don't want the knot slipping through the second ring and causing my crew issues on the next set.

Ah, I get it - that's a great idea. I'll do it!

Tying to the top patch with a 6" bowline has the same effect

You are letting off the tackline once the sail is in control on the retrieval line?

Yep, releasing the tack at the right time.

I'll definitely extend the top patch by 6".

Thanks

Is your sail treated to be slippery? Most guys spay their chutes and snuffers liberally with McLube during a dry run of the spin beach side, or alternatively coat the chute with a product such as Holmenkol Seal n glide to make them go in a bit easier. Crispy new chutes can be cranky for a little while until they 'break in' to the routine of snuffing. Its sort of a given for a new chute.

I've been spraying McLube on the snuffer hoop but not on the sail.

also, the tack line release cleat will often reset during a snuff, (and that is hard to pull!), so pull on it again if it seems hoplessly stuck. Addditionally brand new spin halyards tend to get twists or 'hockles' which arise as a result of the new rope's bias. Both of these can bung up douses and sets for awhile.

spray it on the big 'ball-o-sail' that forms when the main glob of sail goes into the snuffer. It will help.

I did notice that the halyard twists sometimes. Any solutions for that?

if you use the Holmenkol Seal n glide product (works VERY well) throw your halyard in the bag too (at least the retrieval part of the line).

BUT it didn't help me much the first 2 dozen snuffs.. my headboard was so stiff and my tack too... they caused lots of fouled snuffs... which lead to fouled spin sheets.... grrrr

i use a 4mm robline racing sheet (dyneema blend) that never hokles (probably will now that i said that)

When you set up, milk the bias out of the rope by holding it between your fingers and letting it slip through, while going out to the ends-it will unscrew itself with a few repeats. If you do it right, you may get a rope burn. You will see and feel the rope untwisting itself. Also, with time the halyard gets a little more pliable and less prone to the bias introduced by the rope.

I pull the core from the retrieval part of the halyard and I strip the cover from the uphaul part of the halyard. I only have about a 2 foot section of the halyard that has both the core and cover and that's so it can be cleated.

Pulling the core helps prevent the inevitable kink from jamming in the block, it simply pulls through the block without much effort.

Often the sign of a knackered halyard block up the mast.

Hi Uogecko,

I have just gone through the braking in of a new spinnaker on the infussion, I have listed the ways of making it easier to retrive and set.

As the previous posts it will take a few weeks for the spinnker to soften up and break in, especialy the tack,head and clew which all have stengthening materials sewn in, it will become easier, I know this doesnt help but the spinnaker will soften.

not sure on your set up do you have the black bag or the race kit sail type material?

1 - you must get the top retrival line right, if you tie a knot at the retrival point, quite often it ends up pulling into the ring, the best thing is to put the smallest ball you have as a stopper, and as said above make sure you have 6 inches between the 3rd point and the ring. This will be 80% of your problems solved.

2 - soften the tack,head clew, points at home by rolling and squashing them. This is optional as thye will eventually sofen with use.

3 - every time you sail coat the hoop and spray into the shute with lubricant, we use a sticky silicone that doesnt dry, we used teflon before but as its not sticy it found its way back to the tramp!

4 - every time you sail coat the spinnaker with same coating, especialy in the area the last two retrival pulls

5 - if you dont have the silicone impregnated spinnker, then you can use sailcoat or similar to coat the whole spinnaker as above post(1 pint will be enough)best way of doing this is to hang the spinnaker up horizontal and use a mop to paint on the coating.

6 - Do you have the race shute? the white sail material? if not put it on your list!

7 - Taper tack line, halyard and sheets!

8 - Dont sit/stand on the sheets especialy the tackline!

As you use the spinnaker it will get easier, I had the same issue and contacted NACRA Europe, a month later the spinnkaer has eased up.

enjoy your new cat!

Hi Uogecko,

If the spinnaker line is twisting, you have 3 options

1 - Live with it! take out the bias, you can do this if its ocassional

2 - strip the core, I leave the cover on from the first pull at the mast.

3 - you can use batter quality sheet, that doesnt have the bias problem, robline is good, although you will need to use 5mm as the smaller diam will pull throuh the cleat, robline is a little stiff if you prefer a softer feel try Endura braid by Newengland, both of these I use on my infussion and have never had a problem, saying that the tapered line supplied by NACRA has never twisted, although the std line which is not stripped they twist, wich is great for a few places in any race. The halyard twists when the core and cover move, so another optio is to use a single braid like mafioli, this I have also used and have never had a problem with twisting, I would recomend using a 6 mm if you use a single braid as they squash in the cleat.

Thanks, this is really helpful!